IN Barber cheat sheet

Sanitation lowers the number of microbes on surfaces; disinfection destroys most pathogens but not spores; sterilization destroys all microbial life, including spores.

Implements that contact blood or body fluids need an EPA-registered, hospital-grade disinfectant with a tuberculocidal claim, used for the full contact time on the label.

Porous items that cannot be disinfected (pumice, foam, wooden sticks, nail files) are single-use and are discarded after the client.

Disinfectant is mixed per label directions, stored in a covered container, and replaced on the label's interval (often daily); a test strip confirms the effective concentration.

Blood spill dilution: 1 part 5.25% sodium hypochlorite to 9 parts water (about 10% bleach), 10-minute contact, gloves worn and materials discarded in a closed container.

Hands are washed with soap and water before and after every client; hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Soiled linens go into a closed container; a clean towel and neck strip are used for each client, and sharps go into a puncture-resistant container.

Electrical safety: use GFCI-protected outlets near water, keep cords and appliances away from basins, never handle plugs with wet hands, and unplug by the plug.

Elevation angles: 0 degrees produces a blunt/solid form, 45 degrees graduation, 90 degrees a uniform layer, and 180 degrees a long layer.

A stationary guide means every subsection is cut to the same fixed length; a traveling guide means each new subsection is cut slightly longer, creating increasing length.

Horizontal cutting lines build weight, diagonal lines blend and soften, and vertical lines remove weight while building graduation and layering.

Overdirection shifts hair away from its natural fall to increase length on the opposite side; natural fall is the hair's position when combed down without tension.

Cross-check by combing the hair opposite to the direction it was cut to confirm both sides and all sections are even.

Texturizing techniques (point cutting, notching, slithering, chipping) reduce bulk and soften a line without changing the overall length.

Clipper-over-comb uses the comb as the guide; the clipper is held flat against the comb's teeth and worked against the direction of hair growth.

Fine or thin hair takes smaller subsections and lower heat; coarse, dense hair takes larger subsections and more tension for the same shape.

Shaving with the grain cuts less closely but reduces irritation and ingrown hairs; shaving against the grain gives the closest shave and is reserved for tolerant skin.

A hot towel plus worked lather holds water against the beard, softens the hair, and lets the razor glide; the razor is held at roughly a 30-degree angle to the skin.

Stretch the skin taut ahead of the stroke and use short strokes; a freehand stroke moves toward the barber, a backhand stroke moves away.

Do not shave over moles, warts, inflamed acne, broken or irritated skin, or skin recently treated with a chemical peel or cosmetic procedure.

For a nick, apply styptic powder, clean the area, and disinfect the implement before continuing the service.

Beard outline follows the natural jawline; the neckline is set about one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple.

Facial massage contraindications include acne, boils, broken skin, active infection, and recent facial surgery.

Finish with an astringent or tonic to close the pores, then a moisturizer; avoid high-alcohol products on dry or sensitive skin.

pH reference: hair 4.5-5.5; acid wave 6.5-7.5 with heat; alkaline thio wave 9.0-9.6; sodium hydroxide relaxer 12-14.

Permanent waves and relaxers both break disulfide bonds; the neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) re-forms the bonds in the new shape.

Developer volumes with permanent tint or lightener: 10 volume (3%) deposits, 20 volume (6%) lifts 1-2 levels, 30 volume (9%) lifts 2-3 levels, 40 volume (12%) lifts 3-4 levels.

Aniline derivative tints require a patch test 24-48 hours before application and a strand test to set processing time.

Color wheel neutralization: blue cancels orange, green cancels red, and violet cancels yellow.

A relaxer retouch applies product to new growth only; the scalp is based and previously relaxed hair is protected with conditioner to prevent overlap and breakage.

No shampoo for 48-72 hours before a relaxer service; a low-pH neutralizing shampoo follows the relaxer to restore the hair's normal pH.

Porous or previously lightened hair processes faster, so check the strand every 5-10 minutes and never carry a chemical service past the strand test time.

Growth cycle: anagen (2-6 years, about 90% of scalp hair at any time), catagen (2-3 weeks), telogen (about 3 months) followed by shedding.

Scalp hair grows about 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) per month, roughly 6 inches per year, with an average density near 100,000 hairs.

Contagious or infectious conditions (tinea capitis, pediculosis, scabies, impetigo, pus-filled folliculitis) are refused and referred to a physician.

Noncontagious conditions include pityriasis (dandruff), seborrheic dermatitis, alopecia areata, canities, trichoptilosis, monilethrix, and fragilitas crinium.

Elasticity test: a wet strand that stretches and returns is normal; a strand that snaps is brittle and signals that chemical service should be avoided.

Porosity test: hair that floats resists moisture (low porosity); hair that sinks quickly is highly porous and absorbs chemicals rapidly.

Barbers may recommend medicated shampoo for its labeled purpose but may not diagnose or treat a disease; abnormal scalp findings are referred.

Shampoo is chosen by scalp type (normal, oily, dry, combination) and conditioner by hair texture and condition.

Skin layers from surface inward: epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous layer; the dermis holds collagen, elastin, blood vessels, nerves, glands, and follicles.

Epidermis from deep to surface: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms and soles), corneum.

The skull has 8 cranial bones and 14 facial bones; the mandible is the only movable facial bone.

Muscles of mastication are the masseter and temporalis; frontalis raises the brow, zygomaticus produces a smile, buccinator compresses the cheek.

Cranial nerve VII (facial) is motor to the face; cranial nerve V (trigeminal) is sensory; the temporal and occipital arteries supply the scalp.

Sudoriferous glands (eccrine and apocrine) produce sweat; sebaceous glands attached to follicles secrete sebum that lubricates skin and hair.

Hair shaft layers: cuticle (outer, protective), cortex (middle, holds pigment), medulla (core, may be absent in fine hair).

There are four tissue types (epithelial, connective, muscular, nervous); cells reproduce by mitosis, and physiology covers anabolism and catabolism.

Indiana barbers, barber shops, and barber schools are regulated by the State Board of Cosmetology and Barber Examiners, administered by the Indiana Professional Licensing Agency (PLA).

Performing barbering for pay without a valid license is prohibited; a shop must hold and display a current shop license and is subject to inspection.

Indiana's barbering scope covers cutting, shaving, trimming, singeing, shampooing, arranging, waving, relaxing, coloring, and applying preparations to hair and beard.

Shop sanitation, equipment, and facility requirements are established in the Indiana Administrative Code, Title 820.

Licensees must follow universal precautions and bloodborne-pathogen rules; violations can lead to discipline, fines, or license suspension.

Infectious or contagious scalp and skin conditions are outside the barber's scope: refuse the service and refer the client to a physician.

Only a licensed barber instructor may teach in an Indiana barber school; students must be enrolled in a licensed school and work under supervision.

Licenses are issued and renewed through the PLA; practicing on an expired license is treated as unlicensed practice.