B&WSSC Nail Technician cheat sheet
B&WSSC Nail Technician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety
Sanitation reduces visible contamination on surfaces; disinfection kills most vegetative bacteria, fungi, and some viruses on implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including bacterial spores.
EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant used on implements must carry a label claim for the specific pathogen class (e.g., mycobacterium, HIV, HBV) and be mixed and timed per label contact time.
Porous items (nail files, buffers, wooden sticks, cotton) cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded after single use or given to the client.
Nonporous implements (metal nippers, pushers, cuticle scissors) are cleaned with soap and water, dried, then fully immersed in disinfectant for the label contact time.
Blood and body fluid spills are handled with gloves: absorb, clean with detergent, then disinfect with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal product; contaminated waste goes in a covered lined container.
Hand washing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client and after glove removal; alcohol-based sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.
Standard precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; gloves are single use, removed by the glove-to-glove, skin-to-skin technique, and hands washed immediately after.
Material Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for every chemical in the salon must be kept on site and accessible to workers per OSHA Hazard Communication requirements.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Hands, Arms, and Nails
Nail plate is composed mainly of keratin; the nail bed lies beneath it, and the matrix at the proximal nail fold produces the plate, so matrix damage causes permanent deformity.
The eponychium is the living skin at the base of the nail plate; the cuticle is the dead tissue on the plate surface - only the cuticle may be lightly trimmed, never the eponychium.
Lunula is the visible portion of the matrix; its whitish color reflects the nucleated cells of the matrix rather than pigment.
Nail growth averages about 3 mm (1/8 inch) per month for fingernails and about 1 mm per month for toenails; complete fingernail replacement takes roughly 4–6 months.
Free edge extends past the hyponychium; the hyponychium is the seal between nail plate and fingertip that limits infection entry.
Sidewalls (lateral nail folds) and the nail grooves anchor the plate; the nail mantle is the skin pocket that forms the proximal nail fold.
Fingertips have dense sensory innervation and rich capillary supply, which is why cuts there bleed freely and infection risk is high.
Bones of the hand: 8 carpals, 5 metacarpals, 14 phalanges; the distal phalanx underlies the nail bed and supports the plate.
Nail Disorders, Diseases, and Client Contraindications
Fungal infection (onychomycosis) presents as thickened, yellow-brown, crumbly nail with debris under the plate; it is contagious and requires medical referral, not salon treatment.
Paronychia is inflammation/infection of the nail fold tissue, often bacterial; red, swollen, painful folds with pus are a contraindication to service and need medical care.
Pseudomonas (green) discoloration is a bacterial infection between plate and bed; it is not a stain and must be referred, with the plate not covered until resolved.
Onycholysis is separation of the plate from the bed, often from trauma or aggressive filing; do not force product or tools into the separated area.
Beau's lines are transverse depressions from interrupted matrix growth after illness or trauma; pitting in rows suggests psoriasis and warrants referral.
Melanonychia - a dark longitudinal band, especially on a single digit with nail-fold pigment (Hutchinson's sign) - requires urgent dermatologic referral.
Contraindications to service include open lesions, active infection, unexplained bleeding, severe inflammation, and undiagnosed discoloration; refer rather than treat.
Nail psoriasis, lichen planus, and eczema are medical conditions; salon work is limited to cosmetic enhancement only with a physician's clearance and no broken skin.
Manicuring, Pedicuring, and Nail Care Services
Basic manicure sequence: sanitize hands, inspect, shape with file in one direction on natural nails, soak, push cuticle back, clean under free edge, massage, polish.
File natural nails with a fine-grit file (about 240 grit or higher) and file from corner to center in one direction to reduce splitting.
Pedicure water temperature should be comfortably warm (about 38–40 °C); single-use liners are used and the basin is disinfected with an EPA-registered product after each client.
Do not soak feet longer than about 10–15 minutes to avoid skin maceration; dry thoroughly between toes to prevent fungal growth.
Cuticle nippers are used only on hangnails or loose cuticle; cutting live tissue risks infection and is outside the scope of nail technology in many states.
Massage strokes follow venous return toward the heart; avoid deep pressure over joints, varicose veins, or areas with inflammation.
Hot oil manicure uses warmed oil to soften skin; paraffin treatments require temperature checks (about 50–54 °C) to prevent burns.
Service documentation includes date, products used, condition of nails/skin, and any referral given; records support follow-up and liability protection.
Nail Product Chemistry and Application (Acrylics, Gels, Wraps)
Acrylic (liquid-and-powder) systems cure by exothermic polymerization of ethyl methacrylate monomer with polymer powder; the correct mix ratio yields a workable bead that sets without heat spike.
Monomer is a skin sensitizer; repeated skin contact can cause allergic contact dermatitis, so avoid skin contact and keep lids closed to limit vapor exposure.
Gel polish and hard gels cure under UV/LED light; photoinitiators absorb the light wavelength, so under-cured product remains tacky and increases allergy risk.
The inhibition layer (uncured tacky surface) on gels is wiped with alcohol; it is not a defect but a sign of oxygen-inhibited curing.
Nail wraps use resin or cyanoacrylate adhesive with fabric or fiberglass; the wrap must be fully saturated and pressed smooth to prevent lifting.
Dehydrator and primer improve adhesion: dehydrator removes surface oils, acid-free primer bonds to keratin; excess primer on skin can cause irritation.
Odorless acrylic systems use different chemistry and cure more slowly; they still require the same mix ratio discipline and ventilation.
Product removal: soak acrylic or gel in acetone with the nail covered, never pry or force product off, which removes plate layers and thins the nail.
Nail Art, Design, and Enhancement Techniques
Nail tip sizing: choose a tip that matches the sidewall width exactly; a tip that is too wide causes pressure and lifting, too narrow leaves a ledge.
Blend tip seams with a fine-grit file and buffer until flush with the natural plate before applying product; a visible seam traps moisture and lifts.
Forms are used for sculpting; a well-fitting form sits under the free edge with sidewalls aligned and no gap that would let product leak under.
Airbrush and hand-painted art require a fully cured, dust-free base; seal with a top coat compatible with the art medium to prevent smearing.
Nail art adhesives, rhinestones, and charms must not extend past the free edge or catch on objects; secure edges with top coat or resin.
French manicure: smile line placement should follow the natural free edge and be consistent across all ten nails; asymmetry is the most common visible flaw.
Encapsulation uses clear product over glitter or dried flowers; the encapsulated layer must be fully embedded with no air pockets to prevent lifting.
Stamping and foils require a tack-free cured base; transfer pressure and timing determine image opacity, so test on a practice nail first.
Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics
Intake consultation should capture allergies, skin/nail conditions, medications, occupation, and prior product reactions before any service begins.
Informed consent means explaining products, risks, expected wear time, and removal process, then documenting the client's agreement.
Scope of practice: nail technicians do not diagnose or treat disease; suspected disorders are described objectively and referred to a physician.
Confidentiality covers health information and personal details shared during service; do not discuss a client's information with others.
Objective documentation uses observable terms ("redness along the left lateral fold") rather than diagnoses ("infection").
Client refusal of a recommended service or referral is documented; the technician may decline service when a contraindication is present.
Conflict resolution: listen, restate the concern, offer a remedy consistent with salon policy, and escalate to the manager when safety or liability is involved.
Ethical pricing and advertising must accurately describe services and products; upselling is disclosed before work begins, not after.
Salon Business, State Law, and Regulatory Compliance
Licensure is state-specific: a nail technician license, salon license, and posted licenses are typically required, and each state board sets scope, hours, and renewal cycles.
Most state boards require continuing education hours per renewal period; the exact number and approved topics are set by the state board, not the salon.
OSHA requires a written Hazard Communication program, labeled containers, SDS access, and PPE for chemicals used in the salon.
Salon sanitation inspections check disinfection logs, implement storage, hand-washing facilities, and single-use item handling; records should be retained per state rule.
Employment classification (employee vs. independent contractor/booth renter) affects tax withholding, insurance, and salon liability; misclassification carries penalties.
Service and product liability insurance protects against claims of injury or reaction; general business insurance does not cover professional services.
Client records, consent forms, and incident reports are business records; retention periods and privacy obligations follow state and federal rules.
Pricing must account for product cost, labor time, overhead, and taxes; a service priced below cost per hour cannot sustain the business.
Tool and Equipment Use, Maintenance, and Sterilization
Implements are categorized by use: single-use (files, buffers, wooden sticks, cotton), disinfectable nonporous (metal tools), and equipment requiring manufacturer-specified cleaning.
Disinfection procedure: wash with soap and water, rinse, dry completely, then fully immerse in EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the label contact time; rinse if the label requires it.
Ultrasonic cleaners remove debris before disinfection; they do not sterilize, and the solution must be changed per manufacturer instructions.
Autoclave sterilization uses steam under pressure (typically 121 °C at 15 psi for about 15–30 minutes); items must be cleaned first and pouched with indicators.
UV light cabinets are not reliable sterilizers and are not a substitute for chemical disinfection or autoclaving.
Electric files (e-files) require bit cleaning and disinfection between clients; bits are disinfected or discarded per manufacturer guidance, and dust extraction reduces inhalation risk.
Sharps (nippers, credo blades, lancets) are handled with care, kept in a covered container, and disposed of per local rules if single use.
Store disinfected implements in a clean, covered container; never store clean and dirty tools together, and label containers clearly.