IN Esthetician cheat sheet

Disinfection destroys most pathogenic organisms on nonporous implements but does not kill bacterial spores; sterilization is the only process that destroys all microbial life including spores.

Indiana requires wet disinfection with an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant at label dilution and contact time; implements must be cleaned of debris first because organic matter inactivates disinfectants.

Porous items (nail files, buffers, sponges, cotton, wooden sticks) cannot be effectively disinfected and must be discarded after a single client.

Blood and body-fluid spills are handled with gloves and an EPA-registered tuberculocidal disinfectant or a 1:10 bleach dilution prepared fresh daily.

Hand washing with soap and running water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client; alcohol-based sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Single-use sharps such as lancets and extractor tips go into a rigid, closable sharps container; contaminated linens go into a closed receptacle and are laundered with detergent and hot water.

Pathogen classes to know: bacteria (Staphylococcus, Streptococcus, Pseudomonas), viruses (HIV, HBV, HCV, herpes), fungi (Tinea), and parasites (pediculosis).

Material Safety Data Sheets (SDS) must be on file for every chemical product used, and containers must remain labeled with the product name and hazard information.

Epidermis layers from deep to surface: stratum germinativum (basale), spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms and soles only), corneum.

Keratinocytes are formed in the basal layer by mitosis, migrate upward, and convert to keratin through keratinization; the full turnover takes roughly 28 days in young adults and lengthens with age.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin via tyrosinase; melanin absorbs UV and determines skin and hair color.

The dermis contains collagen (strength), elastin (elasticity), and glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid (hydration); the papillary layer is superficial and the reticular layer is deep.

Fibroblasts synthesize collagen and elastin; mast cells release histamine; macrophages provide immune defense in the dermis.

Sebaceous glands are attached to hair follicles and produce sebum; eccrine glands regulate temperature via sweat; apocrine glands are found in axillae and the groin.

Skin functions: protection, sensation, heat regulation, excretion, secretion, and absorption; absorption is greatest through the follicle-rich areas and damaged skin.

The acid mantle (pH about 4.5-5.5) and barrier lipids limit water loss and resist microbial invasion; over-cleansing raises pH and impairs barrier function.

Skin types: normal, dry (alipidic), oily (lipid), combination, and sensitive; skin conditions (dehydration, acne, hyperpigmentation, aging) are diagnosed alongside type, not instead of it.

Fitzpatrick phototypes I-VI estimate UV response and guide treatment settings; type I always burns and never tans, type VI rarely burns.

Contraindications to treatment include active herpes simplex, open lesions, sunburn, recent chemical peel or waxing, isotretinoin use, and uncontrolled skin disease.

Comedones are noninflammatory (open blackheads, closed whiteheads); papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts are inflammatory acne lesions and should not be extracted when inflamed.

Melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation are pigmentation disorders worsened by UV and heat; treatment centers on sun protection and tyrosinase inhibitors.

Rosacea presents with erythema, telangiectasia, and flushing; avoid heat, alcohol, spicy foods, and aggressive exfoliation.

Skin cancer warning signs follow the ABCDE rule: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter over 6 mm, Evolving lesion; suspect lesions are referred, not treated.

Tinea, impetigo, herpes, and warts are contagious and require referral; a cosmetologist or esthetician may not treat or diagnose disease.

Standard facial sequence: consultation and skin analysis, cleansing, exfoliation, steam and/or desincrustation, extraction, massage, mask, toner, moisturizer, sun protection.

Steam softens sebum and keratin for easier extraction; keep the vapor 12-18 inches from the face and limit exposure for clients with rosacea, couperose, or sensitive skin.

Massage movements include effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction, and vibration; always work in the direction of lymph drainage and avoid contraindicated areas.

Extractions are performed with fingers wrapped in tissue or a comedone extractor after softening; inflamed papules and pustules are not extracted.

Mask selection: clay or sulfur for oily and acne skin, hydrating gel or sheet masks for dehydrated skin, cream masks for dry or mature skin, modeling masks for vascular and sensitive skin.

Electrical modalities: high frequency (ozone, antibacterial), galvanic (desincrustation and iontophoresis), microcurrent, and LED; each has specific indications and contraindications such as pregnancy, pacemakers, and metal implants.

Chemical exfoliants: AHAs (glycolic, lactic) act on the surface and are water soluble; BHAs (salicylic) are lipid soluble and penetrate pores; always patch test and follow the manufacturer's neutralization protocol.

Documentation includes client history, products used, treatment performed, reactions, and home-care recommendations; records support follow-up and liability protection.

Hair growth stages: anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), telogen (resting); waxing is most effective in anagen because the hair is firmly anchored and the bulb is intact.

Waxing removes hair at or below the follicle opening; it does not stop growth, and regrowth appears in roughly 3-6 weeks.

Contraindications include isotretinoin use within 6-12 months, recent chemical peel, laser or dermabrasion, sunburn, active infection, and use of blood thinners or retinoids on the area.

Hard wax is applied thick and removed without strips, adhering to the hair rather than the skin; soft wax requires strips and is applied thin in the direction of growth and removed against it.

Temperature test: apply wax to the inner wrist or back of the gloved hand before the client; wax that is too hot causes burns and hyperpigmentation.

Wax must never be double-dipped; a fresh spatula or strip is used for each application, and used wax is discarded.

Post-wax care: soothe with a calming product, avoid heat, sun, tight clothing, and exfoliation for 24-48 hours, and advise sun protection on freshly waxed skin.

Ingrown hairs are managed with gentle exfoliation and avoidance of tight clothing; persistent or infected follicles require referral.

Foundation shade matching is tested along the jawline in natural light; undertones are classified as warm (yellow/peach), cool (pink/blue), or neutral.

Color theory for correction: green neutralizes redness, peach or orange corrects blue and dark circles, lavender corrects sallow yellow tones, yellow corrects purple bruising.

Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, diamond, oblong) guide contour and highlight placement; contour recedes a feature and highlight brings it forward.

Eyelash extensions require a patch test, isolation of each natural lash, and a bond that does not touch the skin; adhesive vapors require ventilation and clients with eye infections are refused.

Lash lift and tint use silicone shields and a lifting cream; the service must not be performed over an active eye infection or within 24 hours of lash tinting.

Eyebrow shaping follows the golden ratio: brow begins above the inner corner of the eye, arches above the outer edge of the iris, and ends at the outer corner.

Sanitation in makeup services: disposable applicators or sanitized brushes, no double-dipping into cream products, and mascara or liquid products are never shared between clients.

Lash and brow contraindications include recent eye surgery, conjunctivitis, styes, allergies to adhesive components, and pregnancy-related sensitivity.

pH scale runs 0-14; below 7 is acidic, 7 is neutral, above 7 is alkaline; skin-friendly formulations sit near the acid mantle at pH 4.5-5.5.

Surfactants have a hydrophilic head and lipophilic tail; they lift oil and debris so it can be rinsed away. Cleanser strength depends on surfactant type and concentration.

Emulsions combine oil and water with an emulsifier; oil-in-water emulsions are lighter and water-in-oil emulsions are heavier and more occlusive.

Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea) attract water; emollients (fatty acids, esters, silicones) soften and fill gaps; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) reduce water loss.

Antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and niacinamide neutralize free radicals; vitamin C is unstable and requires acidic pH and opaque packaging.

Retinoids increase cell turnover and collagen synthesis but cause irritation and photosensitivity; they are contraindicated with waxing and aggressive exfoliation.

Exfoliating acids: glycolic acid has the smallest AHA molecule and penetrates fastest; salicylic acid is a BHA suited to oily and acne-prone skin; lactic acid is gentler and hydrating.

Ingredient label order reflects concentration, with ingredients over 1% listed in descending order; fragrance and preservatives appear last and are common sensitizers.

The Indiana State Board of Cosmetology and Barber Examiners regulates estheticians under the cosmetology article of the Indiana Code and the rules at 820 IAC 5.

Licensure requires completion of an approved esthetics program (a minimum of 700 hours under current rules), passage of the state practical and written examinations, and a license displayed at the work station.

Licenses renew every two years; continuing education requirements apply, and lapsed licenses require reinstatement through the board.

The salon must hold a current establishment license, display licenses and inspection reports, and maintain sanitation, equipment, and facility standards.

Estheticians may perform skin care, makeup, waxing, and lash and brow services; they may not diagnose or treat disease, prescribe medication, or perform medical procedures.

Client records and personal information are confidential; client consent and a health history are obtained before service, and minors may require parental consent.

Ethical practice includes scope-of-practice limits, honest advertising, no guaranteed results, and referral of suspected disease to a physician.

Disciplinary grounds include unsanitary practice, practicing beyond scope, false advertising, and working without a valid license; the board may fine, suspend, or revoke.