Hair Removal and Waxing
Hair biology drives the technique
Waxing works best on anagen hair, the actively growing phase, when the hair is anchored and about 6 mm (1/4 inch) long. Catagen is transitional and telogen is resting; telogen hair sheds easily and may seem to "not take." Vellus hair is fine and unpigmented, terminal hair is coarse and pigmented, and lanugo is the downy prenatal type.
Products and method
Soft wax is applied thin and removed with a muslin strip. Hard wax goes on thicker, shrink-wraps the hair, and lifts without a strip, which makes it kinder to the face and bikini. Sugaring paste is water-soluble, applied against the grain, and removed with the grain. Whatever the product: cleanse and powder the area, patch test 24–48 hours ahead, apply in the direction of growth, hold skin taut, remove against the grain, and press the area afterward.
Contraindications to screen for
Isotretinoin within 6–12 months; topical retinoids on the area (stop about 5–7 days); recent laser, peel, or microdermabrasion (wait 7–14 days); sunburn; active herpes simplex; open lesions; varicose veins; poorly controlled diabetes; keloid history; anticoagulants; moles (work around them); pregnancy, for sensitivity.
Worked example
A client on nightly tretinoin wants a lip and brow wax before a wedding. Reasoning: retinoids thin the corneum, and wax can strip skin and leave a burn-like erosion. Correct response: postpone, have her stop the retinoid 5–7 days with her prescriber's approval, or offer tweezing.
Traps
Judging wax temperature by eye instead of testing on your inner wrist; double-dipping the stick; waxing over a mole; removing wax in the wrong direction; failing to ask about Accutane.