INI-SS study materials
INI-SS study resources

INI-SS cheat sheet

INI-SS · Keep the key ideas within reach.

Quick reference

Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety

  • Define the three levels: sanitation (cleaning to reduce pathogens on surfaces), disinfection (chemicals that destroy most pathogens on nonporous implements), sterilization (heat/pressure/chemicals that destroy all microbial life including spores).

  • Porous items (buffers, files, wooden sticks, cotton, nail brushes) cannot be disinfected reliably and must be discarded after single use; nonporous metal implements must be cleaned, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant.

  • Disinfectant contact time is the labeled wet time; implements must be fully immersed for the full time (commonly 10 minutes for hospital-grade products) and the solution must be changed per manufacturer or when visibly soiled.

  • Hand washing uses soap and running water for at least 20 seconds; alcohol-based hand rub is an alternative only when hands are not visibly soiled. Wash before and after each client and after removing gloves.

  • Single-use gloves are changed between clients and whenever torn; gloves do not replace hand washing. Never touch a client's skin, phone, or face with contaminated gloves.

  • Blood and body fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towels, clean with detergent, then disinfect with an EPA-registered product labeled for bloodborne pathogens; place all waste in a double-sealed bag.

  • Sharps (credible instruments, broken glass, needles) go into a rigid, puncture-resistant sharps container; never recap or bend a used implement by hand.

  • Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) must be on file and accessible for every chemical product in the salon; OSHA requires hazard communication training and labeling of secondary containers.

  • Electrical safety: use GFCI-protected outlets near water, keep cords away from water and heat, unplug by the plug (not the cord), and never immerse a plugged-in appliance.

Quick reference

Anatomy and Physiology of the Hand, Nail, and Skin

  • Nail plate is composed of keratinized cells produced by the matrix; the visible plate rests on the nail bed, which extends from the lunula to the hyponychium.

  • Nail growth: fingernails approximately 3 mm (0.1 in) per month, toenails about 1 mm per month; complete replacement of a fingernail takes roughly 4–6 months, a toenail 9–12 months.

  • Nail matrix is the growth center under the proximal nail fold; injury or disease here causes permanent plate deformity. The lunula is the visible portion of the matrix.

  • Cuticle (eponychium) seals the proximal nail fold to the plate; the cuticle must never be cut, only pushed back and conditioned, because it is the primary barrier against infection.

  • Nail sidewalls (lateral folds) and hyponychium (under the free edge) form the seal at the distal end; the hyponychium is a key barrier against pathogens.

  • Skin layers: epidermis (avascular outer layer, keratinocytes), dermis (nerves, blood vessels, glands, collagen), subcutaneous layer (fat and connective tissue).

  • Bones of the hand: 8 carpals, 5 metacarpals, 14 phalanges (2 in thumb, 3 in each other finger); major nerves are median, ulnar, and radial.

  • Arterial supply to the fingers comes from the radial and ulnar arteries via the palmar arches; the nail bed receives blood from the digital arteries.

  • Skin appendages include sweat glands (thermoregulation) and sebaceous glands (sebum, attached to hair follicles) - both matter for product selection and client assessment.

Quick reference

Nail Disorders, Diseases, and Contraindications

  • Contraindication rule: do not service a nail with suspected infection (bacterial, fungal, viral) or an undiagnosed lesion; refer the client to a physician and do not apply product over it.

  • Paronychia = inflammation/infection of the tissue around the nail (redness, swelling, pain, pus); often bacterial or candida. Do not perform cuticle work; refer.

  • Onychomycosis (tinea unguium) = fungal infection causing thick, discolored, crumbly nails; highly contagious via implements and surfaces - do not service and disinfect all contact items.

  • Green nail syndrome (pseudomonas) presents as green-black discoloration under the plate from moisture trapped under an enhancement; remove the product, do not reapply, and refer if it persists.

  • Onycholysis = separation of the plate from the bed (white area); causes include trauma, psoriasis, and harsh product use. Do not force product under a lifted edge.

  • Onychorrhexis = longitudinal ridges/splitting; treat with moisturizing and avoid aggressive filing. Leukonychia = white spots, usually from matrix trauma.

  • Beau's lines = transverse depressions from interrupted matrix growth after illness or trauma; they grow out and are not treated by the nail professional.

  • Pincer (trumpet) nail = sidewalls curve inward and pinch the plate; conservative filing and referral for correction; do not aggressively thin the sidewalls.

  • Melanonychia = dark longitudinal band in the plate; a new or changing band, especially with pigment spreading onto the proximal fold (Hutchinson's sign), requires medical referral.

Quick reference

Manicuring, Pedicuring, and Natural Nail Care

  • Basic manicure sequence: consultation/hand assessment → wash hands → shape free edge → soften cuticles → push back cuticle → cleanse plate → massage → base coat → polish → top coat.

  • File in one direction from sidewall to center to avoid splitting; use a fine-grit file (180–240) for natural nails; never file back and forth with a coarse grit.

  • Soak time in water or soak solution should be brief (about 3–5 minutes) to limit plate expansion and softening; longer soaking increases plate splitting risk.

  • Pedicure: use a separate foot basin liner or hospital-grade disinfectant after each client; foot files and rasps are single-client or must be disinfected if nonporous.

  • Never use a credo blade or sharp instrument on calluses or around the nail; use a foot rasp or pumice only on the callus, never on the nail plate or cuticle.

  • Massage direction follows venous return toward the heart; avoid massage over inflamed, broken, or infected skin and over known vascular or thrombotic conditions.

  • Base coat protects the plate and improves adhesion; top coat seals and adds gloss. Thin coats dry faster and reduce bubbling; cap the free edge to seal.

  • Nail plate should be dehydrated and free of oil before polish or enhancement; use a dehydrator or cleanser, and avoid lotion immediately before application.

  • Diabetic clients: no cutting of cuticles, no sharp tools, and no soaking in shared basins unless single-use liners are used; inspect feet and refer any wound or discoloration.

Quick reference

Artificial Nail Enhancements and Application Techniques

  • Liquid-and-powder (acrylic) ratio: approximately 1.5 parts powder to 1 part monomer by volume; too wet = shrinkage and lifting, too dry = brittle and cloudy.

  • Polymerization of acrylic is an exothermic chemical reaction; a too-wet ratio or thick bead generates excess heat (burning) - use smaller beads and thin layers.

  • Tip application: size the tip to the natural free edge, blend the seam, and never cover the hyponychium or sidewalls with adhesive; adhesive must not contact skin.

  • Forms replace tips; the form must align with the free edge and be sealed at the sides before product is applied, or product will seep under the form.

  • Gel enhancements cure under UV/LED lamps; cure time depends on the lamp and product (often 30–60 seconds LED, 2 minutes UV). Replace bulbs per manufacturer and never look directly into the lamp.

  • Sculpted nails should have an apex at the stress area (about one-third from the cuticle), a thin free edge, and a smooth sidewall; a flat nail lacks strength.

  • Filing an enhancement: use a medium-grit bit or file for shaping and a fine-grit for finishing; never over-file at the stress area or sidewalls.

  • Removal: soak in acetone (acrylic, gel) or use product-specific remover; never pry, bite, or force off an enhancement - this removes plate layers.

  • Contraindications for enhancements include active infection, damaged or severely bitten nails, recent surgery, and allergy to acrylates (refer to physician).

Quick reference

Nail Art, Design, and Finishing

  • Design rule of proportion: nail art should balance the nail length; a French tip is typically about one-third of the visible plate, and the smile line should follow the natural free edge.

  • Color theory: complementary colors (opposite on the color wheel) create contrast; analogous colors (adjacent) create harmony. Use skin tone to choose warm vs. cool shades.

  • Layering order for art: base color → design medium (paint, foil, glitter, stamp) → seal with top coat; each layer must be fully dry before the next to prevent smearing.

  • Stamping: apply stamping polish to the plate, scrape at a consistent angle, pick up with a firm rolling motion, and transfer with a rolling motion; clean the plate between uses.

  • Airbrush: thin the paint to a milk-like consistency, keep the gun perpendicular to the nail, and use light passes; clean the nozzle immediately to prevent clogging.

  • Embedded art (glitter, foil, dried flowers) must be fully encapsulated under product; protruding edges lift and trap moisture.

  • Finishing: cap the free edge with top coat, avoid flooding the cuticle, and check the sidewalls for excess before curing or drying.

  • Matte top coat over glossy art changes the finish; apply a glossy top coat first if the design must be protected before matting.

  • Removal of art must follow the underlying product type; acetone dissolves acrylic and gel but may damage nail art mediums and embellishments.

Quick reference

Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics

  • Consultation sequence: greet and establish rapport → assess nails/skin and health history → discuss goals and expectations → explain service and products → confirm consent → perform service → review home care.

  • Health history questions must include diabetes, circulatory problems, skin conditions, allergies (especially to acrylates, nickel, and latex), medications, and pregnancy.

  • Informed consent: explain risks of the chosen service and document the client's agreement, especially for enhancement removal, cutting, or use of strong chemicals.

  • Confidentiality: client health information is private; do not discuss it with others or in public areas of the salon.

  • Scope of practice: a nail professional may not diagnose or treat disease; when a condition is suspected, describe observations and refer to a physician without naming a diagnosis.

  • Professional boundaries: maintain a clean, respectful relationship; avoid personal or romantic involvement with clients and avoid discussing other clients.

  • Communication techniques: use open-ended questions, active listening, and reflective statements; avoid jargon and confirm understanding of home-care instructions.

  • Conflict resolution: listen without interrupting, acknowledge the client's concern, offer a specific remedy within policy, and document the outcome.

  • Ethics in pricing and service: quote prices before service, disclose add-on costs, and never perform a service the client declined or that is contraindicated.

Quick reference

Product Chemistry, Tools, and Equipment

  • Acrylic systems: monomer (liquid, usually ethyl methacrylate) plus polymer (powder); the reaction is an addition polymerization that hardens the product and releases heat.

  • Gel systems contain photoinitiators that cure when exposed to UV or LED light; gels do not evaporate - uncured gel must be removed, not wiped away, before curing.

  • Acetone dissolves acrylic and gel; it is flammable and volatile - store in a closed container away from heat and flame, and use in a ventilated area.

  • pH scale: 0–14; skin and nails prefer slightly acidic products (about pH 4.5–5.5). Alkaline soaps and soaks can dry and damage the plate.

  • Disinfectant chemistry: quaternary ammonium compounds are common surface disinfectants; they require pre-cleaning and the labeled contact time to be effective.

  • Tools: nippers and cuticle pushers are stainless steel and must be disinfected between clients; buffers, files, and orange sticks are single-use porous items.

  • Implements should be inspected for rust, nicks, and dullness; damaged tools tear the skin and harbor pathogens. Replace rather than repair.

  • UV/LED lamps: replace bulbs per manufacturer, keep reflectors clean, and never use a lamp with cracked glass; lamp intensity affects cure.

  • Ventilation: local exhaust or open windows reduce exposure to vapors and dust; wear a dust mask when filing enhancements and avoid breathing dust.

Quick reference

Salon Business, Law, and State Regulation Fundamentals

  • Licensing: individual practitioners and the salon facility must hold current state licenses; licenses must be displayed and renewed before expiration.

  • Scope of regulation: state boards (or boards of cosmetology/barbering) set sanitation rules, licensing requirements, and disciplinary procedures; rules vary by state.

  • Recordkeeping: maintain client records, service logs, and SDS sheets; some states require retention of sanitation and disinfection records for inspection.

  • Employment classification: an employee is paid wages and covered by workers' compensation; an independent contractor sets their own schedule and pays self-employment tax - misclassification is a legal risk.

  • Tax basics: sales tax applies to retail products and, in some states, to services; track income and expenses and set aside self-employment tax.

  • Insurance: professional liability and general liability policies protect against client injury claims and property damage; verify coverage before renting a booth.

  • Pricing: price = direct costs (product, disposables) + overhead allocation + labor + profit margin; review prices when product costs change.

  • Advertising and law: do not make medical or curative claims for nail services; avoid false claims about sanitation or product safety.

  • Client safety law: follow OSHA bloodborne pathogen standards, post required notices, and report serious injuries per state requirements.

Quick reference

Nail Art, Design, and Finishing

  • Finishing coats: glossy top coat seals and adds shine; matte top coat reduces shine; both should be applied thinly and capped at the free edge.

  • Drying: quick-dry drops or sprays speed surface drying but do not harden the lower layers; allow adequate time between coats.

  • French manicure: white tip about one-third of the plate, smile line follows the natural free edge, and the base is a sheer pink or nude.

  • Glitter and foil: apply over a sticky layer (dispersion layer of gel) and encapsulate; loose glitter on the skin should be removed with tape or a lint roller.

  • Nail art tools: dotting tools, striping brushes, and stamps must be cleaned and disinfected between clients if they contact skin or plate.

  • Design durability: keep art away from the cuticle and sidewalls; product on the skin lifts and peels, taking the design with it.

  • Symmetry check: view the hand from the client's perspective and from the side to verify the apex and free-edge thickness.

  • Removal of art: use the remover matched to the underlying product; never scrape art off with a metal tool.

Quick reference

Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety

  • Hand hygiene is the single most effective infection-control measure; wash before and after every client and after glove removal.

  • Disinfectant must be EPA-registered and labeled as hospital-grade or tuberculocidal for implements that contact skin or plate.

  • Implements must be cleaned (soap and water, scrubbed) before disinfection; organic matter inactivates disinfectants.

  • Store disinfected implements in a clean, covered container; never mix clean and dirty implements on the same tray.

  • Waste: blood-contaminated items go in a labeled biohazard bag; sharps go in a rigid sharps container.

  • Vaccination: hepatitis B vaccination is recommended for workers with blood exposure; follow employer policy and state rules.

  • Client screening: refuse service for open wounds, suspected infection, or infestations (lice, scabies) and refer to a physician.

  • Salon surfaces: work surfaces, lamps, and chairs must be cleaned and disinfected between clients; use the labeled contact time.

  • Chemical safety: never mix cleaning products (bleach plus ammonia produces toxic gas); store chemicals in labeled original containers.

Quick reference

Anatomy and Physiology of the Hand, Nail, and Skin

  • Nail plate layers: dorsal, intermediate, and ventral; the ventral layer attaches to the bed and is the thinnest.

  • Nail bed epidermis is thin and contains longitudinal ridges that interlock with the plate; separation (onycholysis) creates a white space.

  • The hyponychium is the thickened epidermis under the free edge; it is the main barrier to infection at the distal end.

  • Cuticle (eponychium) is the living skin at the proximal fold; the cuticle seal must be preserved.

  • Growth rate factors: faster in summer, in younger people, during pregnancy, and on the dominant hand; slower in winter, in older adults, and with poor circulation.

  • Skin barrier: the stratum corneum (outermost epidermis) limits water loss and pathogen entry; over-filing or harsh soaks damage it.

  • Sweat glands (eccrine) are abundant on palms and soles and do not have hair follicles; sebaceous glands are absent on the palms.

  • Sensory receptors in the dermis detect touch, pressure, temperature, and pain; numbness in the fingers warrants medical referral.

  • Bone and joint anatomy: the distal interphalangeal joint is near the free edge; avoid pressure over joints during massage.

Quick reference

Nail Disorders, Diseases, and Contraindications

  • Nail psoriasis causes pitting, oil spots, and onycholysis; it is not contagious but may be aggravated by trauma - avoid aggressive filing.

  • Onychophagia (nail biting) damages the plate and cuticle and raises infection risk; refer for behavior support and avoid enhancements until healed.

  • Onychocryptosis (ingrown nail) causes pain, redness, and swelling at the sidewall; do not cut into the sidewall - refer to a podiatrist.

  • Subungual hematoma (blood under the plate) from trauma should be evaluated medically if painful or spreading.

  • Splinter hemorrhages are small longitudinal blood lines from trauma; multiple unexplained lines warrant medical referral.

  • Koilonychia (spoon nail) is a concave plate often linked to iron deficiency; refer for medical evaluation.

  • Clubbing of the nails (bulging plate, increased angle) may indicate systemic disease; refer.

  • Bacterial infection signs: redness, heat, swelling, pain, pus. Stop service, do not apply product, and refer; disinfect all contact items.

  • Contraindication list: open wounds, burns, frostbite, active infection, undiagnosed lesions, severe circulatory problems, and known acrylate allergy.

Quick reference

Manicuring, Pedicuring, and Natural Nail Care

  • Shape selection: square (strong, for short nails), squoval (rounded corners), oval (classic), almond (long nails), and stiletto (very long); shape follows nail strength and lifestyle.

  • Cuticle care: apply cuticle oil or cream, push back gently with a rubber or wooden pusher, and never cut living tissue.

  • Buffing: use a fine buffer lightly to smooth ridges; over-buffing thins the plate and causes sensitivity.

  • Base coat types: ridge-filling base for uneven plates, bonding base for adhesion, and colored base for opacity.

  • Polish application: thin coats, three strokes (center, then sides), and cap the free edge; two color coats plus top coat is standard.

  • Pedicure tools: separate files and rasps for feet from hand tools; label and store separately to prevent cross-contamination.

  • Callus care: soften with a soak, use a foot rasp gently, and finish with moisturizer; never use a credo blade.

  • Massage contraindications: fever, inflammation, open lesions, recent surgery, and known circulatory disorders.

  • Home care: recommend cuticle oil daily, gloves for wet work, and filing in one direction to maintain plate integrity.

Quick reference

Artificial Nail Enhancements and Application Techniques

  • Nail tip sizing: choose a tip that fits sidewall to sidewall without pressure; a tip that is too wide lifts at the sides.

  • Tip blending: blend the seam with a medium-grit file, then smooth with a fine grit; a visible seam traps moisture and lifts.

  • Acrylic application: apply a thin base layer, then a bead at the stress area; press and pat to shape, do not brush repeatedly.

  • Gel application: apply thin coats, cure fully between layers, and avoid touching the inhibition layer with bare hands.

  • Hard gel vs. soft gel: hard gel is removed by filing, soft gel by soaking in acetone; never soak hard gel - it will not break down.

  • Apex placement: the apex sits over the stress area, about one-third of the nail length from the cuticle, and provides strength.

  • Sidewall filing: keep the file parallel to the sidewall and avoid cutting into the natural sidewall; the enhancement should follow the natural shape.

  • Lifting causes: moisture on the plate, product on the skin, insufficient bonding, and trauma; fix by proper prep and thin application.

  • Repair: remove lifted product, clean and disinfect the area, then rebuild; never fill over lifted product.

Quick reference

Nail Art, Design, and Finishing

  • Color wheel: primary (red, yellow, blue), secondary (orange, green, violet), and tertiary colors; use contrast for accent nails.

  • Nail shapes affect design: square nails suit geometric art; oval and almond suit florals and gradients.

  • Gradient (ombre) technique: apply two colors to a sponge or brush and blend while wet; seal with top coat.

  • Freehand striping: use a long, thin brush and steady pressure; clean the brush between colors to avoid muddy lines.

  • Decals and stickers: apply over a dry base coat, press flat to remove air bubbles, and seal with top coat.

  • 3D art: use acrylic or gel to build raised elements; cure or set fully before top coating.

  • Top coat compatibility: some art mediums (chalk, watercolor) require a compatible sealer; test on a swatch first.

  • Cleanup: remove polish from skin with a brush and remover before curing; polish on skin lifts and peels.

  • Photography and portfolio: use consistent lighting and a neutral background; obtain client consent before posting images.

Quick reference

Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics

  • Intake form elements: name, contact, health history, allergies, medications, previous nail services, and consent signature.

  • Allergy screening: ask specifically about acrylates, nickel, latex, and adhesives; a known acrylate allergy is a contraindication for gel and acrylic.

  • Expectation management: explain realistic wear time (2–3 weeks for fills), maintenance schedule, and removal process.

  • Documentation: record products used, service performed, and any reactions; this protects both client and professional.

  • Boundaries: do not perform services on clients who are intoxicated or who refuse health-history disclosure.

  • Cultural competence: ask about preferences, avoid assumptions, and use the client's preferred name and pronouns.

  • Referral language: 'I see something that needs a doctor's evaluation' - describe, do not diagnose.

  • Payment and policy: state cancellation, late, and refund policies in writing before service.

  • Social media ethics: never post client images or health information without written consent.

Quick reference

Product Chemistry, Tools, and Equipment

  • Monomers are volatile and flammable; keep containers closed, away from heat, and use in a ventilated area.

  • Inhibitor (usually hydroquinone) in monomer prevents premature polymerization; contamination with water or dust accelerates setting.

  • Powder polymers vary in color and grit; clear powder for encapsulating, pink for a natural look, white for French tips.

  • Primer (acid-based or acid-free) improves adhesion by etching the plate; apply thinly and never touch skin.

  • Dehydrator removes surface moisture and oil; it is not the same as primer.

  • Nail drill bits: carbide for product removal, ceramic for natural nail work, and diamond for fine finishing; match grit to task.

  • Drill safety: keep the bit moving, use light pressure, and never drill on a nail with no product over the matrix or sidewalls.

  • UV/LED lamp care: clean the glass and reflectors, replace bulbs per manufacturer, and check that all fingers are fully inserted.

  • Dust extraction and masks reduce inhalation of filing dust; keep the work area ventilated.

Quick reference

Salon Business, Law, and State Regulation Fundamentals

  • State board inspections: inspectors check licenses, sanitation logs, disinfection procedures, and SDS availability; keep records organized.

  • Continuing education: many states require CE hours for license renewal; track certificates and deadlines.

  • Scope of practice law: performing services outside the licensed scope (e.g., medical treatments) is grounds for discipline.

  • Booth rental: renters typically need their own license, insurance, and tax registration; the salon owner must still maintain sanitation compliance.

  • Client records and privacy: store health information securely and dispose of records per state requirements.

  • Contracts: read lease and booth-rental agreements carefully, including notice periods, fees, and non-compete clauses.

  • Marketing law: avoid false or misleading claims, and follow rules for coupons, gift certificates, and expiration dates.

  • Workplace safety: OSHA standards apply to salons; post required notices and train staff on bloodborne pathogens.

  • Business structure: sole proprietorship, LLC, and corporation differ in liability and taxation; consult a professional for setup.

Quick reference

Nail Art, Design, and Finishing

  • French and American manicures: French uses white tips; American uses a natural or colored tip with a softer smile line.

  • Negative-space art: leave areas of the natural nail or base color exposed; seal edges carefully to prevent lifting.

  • Chrome and mirror powders: apply over a no-wipe top coat, rub in with a silicone tool, and seal with top coat.

  • Marbling: use a water-based or gel technique; work quickly before the product sets, and clean the surrounding skin.

  • Encapsulation: embed glitter, lace, or dried flowers in clear acrylic or gel; keep layers thin to avoid bulk.

  • Nail art durability: avoid thick layers that chip; thin, well-sealed layers last longer.

  • Finishing tools: use a clean brush for cleanup, and replace top coat when it thickens or becomes stringy.

  • Design consultation: show swatches or photos, confirm the client's choice, and note any allergies before starting.

  • Removal: soak off soft gel and acrylic; file off hard gel; never use a metal tool to scrape product from the plate.

Quick reference

Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety

  • Sanitation vs. disinfection vs. sterilization: sanitation reduces pathogens, disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous items, sterilization destroys all microbial life.

  • EPA-registered disinfectants must be used at the labeled dilution and contact time; mixing products can reduce efficacy or create hazards.

  • Implements must be cleaned before disinfection; visible debris inactivates disinfectants.

  • Porous items (files, buffers, wooden sticks, cotton) are single-use and must be discarded.

  • Hand washing: soap and water for at least 20 seconds; alcohol rub only when hands are not visibly soiled.

  • Gloves: change between clients and after contact with blood or body fluids; wash hands after removal.

  • Blood exposure: wear gloves, clean with detergent, disinfect with a bloodborne-pathogen-labeled product, and dispose of waste in a biohazard bag.

  • Sharps: place in a rigid, puncture-resistant container; never recap by hand.

  • SDS and labeling: keep SDS for every chemical and label secondary containers; train staff on hazards.

Quick reference

Anatomy and Physiology of the Hand, Nail, and Skin

  • Nail plate is keratinized and non-living; the matrix and bed are living tissue that produce and support it.

  • Nail growth: fingernails about 3 mm per month, toenails about 1 mm per month; full replacement takes 4–6 months (fingers) and 9–12 months (toes).

  • Matrix: growth center under the proximal fold; injury causes permanent deformity. Lunula is the visible matrix.

  • Cuticle (eponychium): living seal at the proximal fold; never cut it.

  • Hyponychium: seal under the free edge; a key barrier against infection.

  • Skin layers: epidermis (avascular), dermis (vessels, nerves, glands), subcutaneous (fat).

  • Hand bones: 8 carpals, 5 metacarpals, 14 phalanges; median, ulnar, and radial nerves supply the hand.

  • Blood supply: radial and ulnar arteries form the palmar arches; digital arteries supply the nail bed.

  • Sweat glands are abundant on palms; sebaceous glands are absent on the palms and soles.

Quick reference

Nail Disorders, Diseases, and Contraindications

  • Paronychia: inflammation of tissue around the nail; do not perform cuticle work and refer.

  • Onychomycosis: fungal infection; thick, discolored, crumbly nails; do not service and disinfect all contact items.

  • Green nail syndrome: green-black discoloration from pseudomonas; remove product, do not reapply, and refer if persistent.

  • Onycholysis: separation of plate from bed; do not force product under a lifted edge.

  • Onychorrhexis: longitudinal ridges and splitting; moisturize and avoid aggressive filing.

  • Leukonychia: white spots from matrix trauma; they grow out.

  • Beau's lines: transverse depressions after illness or trauma; they grow out.

  • Pincer nail: sidewalls curve inward; conservative filing and referral for correction.

  • Melanonychia: dark longitudinal band; new or changing bands, especially with pigment on the proximal fold, require medical referral.

Quick reference

Manicuring, Pedicuring, and Natural Nail Care

  • Manicure sequence: consultation → wash → shape → soften cuticles → push back → cleanse plate → massage → base → polish → top coat.

  • File in one direction from sidewall to center; use 180–240 grit for natural nails.

  • Soak briefly (3–5 minutes) to avoid plate expansion and splitting.

  • Pedicure: use a basin liner or hospital-grade disinfectant after each client; keep foot tools separate.

  • Never use a credo blade on calluses or around the nail; use a rasp or pumice only on callus.

  • Massage toward the heart; avoid inflamed, broken, or infected skin.

  • Base coat protects and improves adhesion; top coat seals and adds gloss; cap the free edge.

  • Dehydrate the plate before polish or enhancement; avoid lotion immediately before application.

  • Diabetic clients: no cuticle cutting, no sharp tools, and single-use basin liners; inspect and refer any wound.

Quick reference

Artificial Nail Enhancements and Application Techniques

  • Acrylic ratio: about 1.5 parts powder to 1 part monomer; too wet causes shrinkage and lifting, too dry causes brittleness.

  • Polymerization is exothermic; too-wet ratio or thick beads generate heat and burning. Use smaller beads and thin layers.

  • Tip application: size sidewall to sidewall, blend the seam, and keep adhesive off skin and hyponychium.

  • Forms: align with the free edge and seal the sides so product does not seep under.

  • Gel cure: often 30–60 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV; replace bulbs per manufacturer and never look into the lamp.

  • Sculpted shape: apex at the stress area, thin free edge, smooth sidewalls; a flat nail lacks strength.

  • Filing: medium grit for shaping, fine grit for finishing; never over-file the stress area or sidewalls.

  • Removal: soak acrylic and soft gel in acetone; file off hard gel; never pry or bite off product.

  • Contraindications: active infection, damaged or bitten nails, recent surgery, and acrylate allergy.

Quick reference

Nail Art, Design, and Finishing

  • Proportion: French tip about one-third of the plate; smile line follows the natural free edge.

  • Color theory: complementary colors contrast; analogous colors harmonize; match warm/cool shades to skin tone.

  • Layering: base color → art medium → top coat; each layer must dry before the next.

  • Stamping: apply polish, scrape at a consistent angle, pick up with a rolling motion, and clean the plate between uses.

  • Airbrush: thin paint to a milk-like consistency, keep the gun perpendicular, and clean the nozzle immediately.

  • Embedded art must be fully encapsulated; protruding edges lift and trap moisture.

  • Finish: cap the free edge, avoid flooding the cuticle, and check sidewalls before curing.

  • Matte top coat changes the finish; apply glossy top coat first if the design must be protected.

  • Removal follows the underlying product type; acetone dissolves acrylic and gel but may damage art mediums.

Quick reference

Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics

  • Consultation sequence: greet → assess nails and health history → discuss goals → explain service and products → confirm consent → perform service → review home care.

  • Health history: diabetes, circulation, skin conditions, allergies (acrylates, nickel, latex), medications, and pregnancy.

  • Informed consent: explain risks and document agreement, especially for removal, cutting, or strong chemicals.

  • Confidentiality: client health information is private; do not discuss it publicly.

  • Scope of practice: do not diagnose or treat disease; describe observations and refer.

  • Boundaries: maintain a respectful professional relationship; avoid personal involvement and gossip.

  • Communication: open-ended questions, active listening, and plain language; confirm understanding.

  • Conflict resolution: listen, acknowledge, offer a specific remedy within policy, and document.

  • Pricing ethics: quote prices before service, disclose add-on costs, and never perform a declined or contraindicated service.

Quick reference

Product Chemistry, Tools, and Equipment

  • Acrylic: monomer (liquid, usually ethyl methacrylate) plus polymer (powder); addition polymerization hardens the product and releases heat.

  • Gels contain photoinitiators that cure under UV or LED; uncured gel must be removed, not wiped, before curing.

  • Acetone dissolves acrylic and gel; it is flammable and volatile - store closed, away from heat, and use with ventilation.

  • pH: 0–14; skin and nails prefer slightly acidic products (about pH 4.5–5.5); alkaline soaps and soaks dry the plate.

  • Quaternary ammonium compounds are common surface disinfectants; they require pre-cleaning and the labeled contact time.

  • Nippers and pushers are stainless steel and must be disinfected between clients; buffers and files are single-use.

  • Inspect tools for rust, nicks, and dullness; damaged tools tear skin and harbor pathogens.

  • UV/LED lamps: replace bulbs per manufacturer, clean reflectors, and never use a cracked lamp.

  • Ventilation and dust masks reduce exposure to vapors and filing dust.

Quick reference

Salon Business, Law, and State Regulation Fundamentals

  • Licensing: practitioners and the salon facility must hold current state licenses; display licenses and renew before expiration.

  • State boards set sanitation rules, licensing requirements, and discipline; rules vary by state.

  • Recordkeeping: maintain client records, service logs, and SDS; some states require sanitation records for inspection.

  • Employment: employees receive wages and workers' compensation; independent contractors set their own schedule and pay self-employment tax; misclassification is a legal risk.

  • Tax: sales tax may apply to retail products and some services; track income and expenses and set aside self-employment tax.

  • Insurance: professional liability and general liability protect against injury claims and property damage; verify coverage before booth rental.

  • Pricing: price = direct costs + overhead + labor + profit; review when product costs change.

  • Advertising: no medical or curative claims; avoid false sanitation or safety claims.

  • Safety law: follow OSHA bloodborne pathogen standards, post required notices, and report serious injuries per state requirements.