INI-SS cheat sheet
INI-SS · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety
Define the three levels: sanitation (cleaning to reduce pathogens on surfaces), disinfection (chemicals that destroy most pathogens on nonporous implements), sterilization (heat/pressure/chemicals that destroy all microbial life including spores).
Porous items (buffers, files, wooden sticks, cotton, nail brushes) cannot be disinfected reliably and must be discarded after single use; nonporous metal implements must be cleaned, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant.
Disinfectant contact time is the labeled wet time; implements must be fully immersed for the full time (commonly 10 minutes for hospital-grade products) and the solution must be changed per manufacturer or when visibly soiled.
Hand washing uses soap and running water for at least 20 seconds; alcohol-based hand rub is an alternative only when hands are not visibly soiled. Wash before and after each client and after removing gloves.
Single-use gloves are changed between clients and whenever torn; gloves do not replace hand washing. Never touch a client's skin, phone, or face with contaminated gloves.
Blood and body fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towels, clean with detergent, then disinfect with an EPA-registered product labeled for bloodborne pathogens; place all waste in a double-sealed bag.
Sharps (credible instruments, broken glass, needles) go into a rigid, puncture-resistant sharps container; never recap or bend a used implement by hand.
Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) must be on file and accessible for every chemical product in the salon; OSHA requires hazard communication training and labeling of secondary containers.
Electrical safety: use GFCI-protected outlets near water, keep cords away from water and heat, unplug by the plug (not the cord), and never immerse a plugged-in appliance.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Hand, Nail, and Skin
Nail plate is composed of keratinized cells produced by the matrix; the visible plate rests on the nail bed, which extends from the lunula to the hyponychium.
Nail growth: fingernails approximately 3 mm (0.1 in) per month, toenails about 1 mm per month; complete replacement of a fingernail takes roughly 4–6 months, a toenail 9–12 months.
Nail matrix is the growth center under the proximal nail fold; injury or disease here causes permanent plate deformity. The lunula is the visible portion of the matrix.
Cuticle (eponychium) seals the proximal nail fold to the plate; the cuticle must never be cut, only pushed back and conditioned, because it is the primary barrier against infection.
Nail sidewalls (lateral folds) and hyponychium (under the free edge) form the seal at the distal end; the hyponychium is a key barrier against pathogens.
Skin layers: epidermis (avascular outer layer, keratinocytes), dermis (nerves, blood vessels, glands, collagen), subcutaneous layer (fat and connective tissue).
Bones of the hand: 8 carpals, 5 metacarpals, 14 phalanges (2 in thumb, 3 in each other finger); major nerves are median, ulnar, and radial.
Arterial supply to the fingers comes from the radial and ulnar arteries via the palmar arches; the nail bed receives blood from the digital arteries.
Skin appendages include sweat glands (thermoregulation) and sebaceous glands (sebum, attached to hair follicles) - both matter for product selection and client assessment.
Nail Disorders, Diseases, and Contraindications
Contraindication rule: do not service a nail with suspected infection (bacterial, fungal, viral) or an undiagnosed lesion; refer the client to a physician and do not apply product over it.
Paronychia = inflammation/infection of the tissue around the nail (redness, swelling, pain, pus); often bacterial or candida. Do not perform cuticle work; refer.
Onychomycosis (tinea unguium) = fungal infection causing thick, discolored, crumbly nails; highly contagious via implements and surfaces - do not service and disinfect all contact items.
Green nail syndrome (pseudomonas) presents as green-black discoloration under the plate from moisture trapped under an enhancement; remove the product, do not reapply, and refer if it persists.
Onycholysis = separation of the plate from the bed (white area); causes include trauma, psoriasis, and harsh product use. Do not force product under a lifted edge.
Onychorrhexis = longitudinal ridges/splitting; treat with moisturizing and avoid aggressive filing. Leukonychia = white spots, usually from matrix trauma.
Beau's lines = transverse depressions from interrupted matrix growth after illness or trauma; they grow out and are not treated by the nail professional.
Pincer (trumpet) nail = sidewalls curve inward and pinch the plate; conservative filing and referral for correction; do not aggressively thin the sidewalls.
Melanonychia = dark longitudinal band in the plate; a new or changing band, especially with pigment spreading onto the proximal fold (Hutchinson's sign), requires medical referral.
Manicuring, Pedicuring, and Natural Nail Care
Basic manicure sequence: consultation/hand assessment → wash hands → shape free edge → soften cuticles → push back cuticle → cleanse plate → massage → base coat → polish → top coat.
File in one direction from sidewall to center to avoid splitting; use a fine-grit file (180–240) for natural nails; never file back and forth with a coarse grit.
Soak time in water or soak solution should be brief (about 3–5 minutes) to limit plate expansion and softening; longer soaking increases plate splitting risk.
Pedicure: use a separate foot basin liner or hospital-grade disinfectant after each client; foot files and rasps are single-client or must be disinfected if nonporous.
Never use a credo blade or sharp instrument on calluses or around the nail; use a foot rasp or pumice only on the callus, never on the nail plate or cuticle.
Massage direction follows venous return toward the heart; avoid massage over inflamed, broken, or infected skin and over known vascular or thrombotic conditions.
Base coat protects the plate and improves adhesion; top coat seals and adds gloss. Thin coats dry faster and reduce bubbling; cap the free edge to seal.
Nail plate should be dehydrated and free of oil before polish or enhancement; use a dehydrator or cleanser, and avoid lotion immediately before application.
Diabetic clients: no cutting of cuticles, no sharp tools, and no soaking in shared basins unless single-use liners are used; inspect feet and refer any wound or discoloration.
Artificial Nail Enhancements and Application Techniques
Liquid-and-powder (acrylic) ratio: approximately 1.5 parts powder to 1 part monomer by volume; too wet = shrinkage and lifting, too dry = brittle and cloudy.
Polymerization of acrylic is an exothermic chemical reaction; a too-wet ratio or thick bead generates excess heat (burning) - use smaller beads and thin layers.
Tip application: size the tip to the natural free edge, blend the seam, and never cover the hyponychium or sidewalls with adhesive; adhesive must not contact skin.
Forms replace tips; the form must align with the free edge and be sealed at the sides before product is applied, or product will seep under the form.
Gel enhancements cure under UV/LED lamps; cure time depends on the lamp and product (often 30–60 seconds LED, 2 minutes UV). Replace bulbs per manufacturer and never look directly into the lamp.
Sculpted nails should have an apex at the stress area (about one-third from the cuticle), a thin free edge, and a smooth sidewall; a flat nail lacks strength.
Filing an enhancement: use a medium-grit bit or file for shaping and a fine-grit for finishing; never over-file at the stress area or sidewalls.
Removal: soak in acetone (acrylic, gel) or use product-specific remover; never pry, bite, or force off an enhancement - this removes plate layers.
Contraindications for enhancements include active infection, damaged or severely bitten nails, recent surgery, and allergy to acrylates (refer to physician).
Nail Art, Design, and Finishing
Design rule of proportion: nail art should balance the nail length; a French tip is typically about one-third of the visible plate, and the smile line should follow the natural free edge.
Color theory: complementary colors (opposite on the color wheel) create contrast; analogous colors (adjacent) create harmony. Use skin tone to choose warm vs. cool shades.
Layering order for art: base color → design medium (paint, foil, glitter, stamp) → seal with top coat; each layer must be fully dry before the next to prevent smearing.
Stamping: apply stamping polish to the plate, scrape at a consistent angle, pick up with a firm rolling motion, and transfer with a rolling motion; clean the plate between uses.
Airbrush: thin the paint to a milk-like consistency, keep the gun perpendicular to the nail, and use light passes; clean the nozzle immediately to prevent clogging.
Embedded art (glitter, foil, dried flowers) must be fully encapsulated under product; protruding edges lift and trap moisture.
Finishing: cap the free edge with top coat, avoid flooding the cuticle, and check the sidewalls for excess before curing or drying.
Matte top coat over glossy art changes the finish; apply a glossy top coat first if the design must be protected before matting.
Removal of art must follow the underlying product type; acetone dissolves acrylic and gel but may damage nail art mediums and embellishments.
Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics
Consultation sequence: greet and establish rapport → assess nails/skin and health history → discuss goals and expectations → explain service and products → confirm consent → perform service → review home care.
Health history questions must include diabetes, circulatory problems, skin conditions, allergies (especially to acrylates, nickel, and latex), medications, and pregnancy.
Informed consent: explain risks of the chosen service and document the client's agreement, especially for enhancement removal, cutting, or use of strong chemicals.
Confidentiality: client health information is private; do not discuss it with others or in public areas of the salon.
Scope of practice: a nail professional may not diagnose or treat disease; when a condition is suspected, describe observations and refer to a physician without naming a diagnosis.
Professional boundaries: maintain a clean, respectful relationship; avoid personal or romantic involvement with clients and avoid discussing other clients.
Communication techniques: use open-ended questions, active listening, and reflective statements; avoid jargon and confirm understanding of home-care instructions.
Conflict resolution: listen without interrupting, acknowledge the client's concern, offer a specific remedy within policy, and document the outcome.
Ethics in pricing and service: quote prices before service, disclose add-on costs, and never perform a service the client declined or that is contraindicated.
Product Chemistry, Tools, and Equipment
Acrylic systems: monomer (liquid, usually ethyl methacrylate) plus polymer (powder); the reaction is an addition polymerization that hardens the product and releases heat.
Gel systems contain photoinitiators that cure when exposed to UV or LED light; gels do not evaporate - uncured gel must be removed, not wiped away, before curing.
Acetone dissolves acrylic and gel; it is flammable and volatile - store in a closed container away from heat and flame, and use in a ventilated area.
pH scale: 0–14; skin and nails prefer slightly acidic products (about pH 4.5–5.5). Alkaline soaps and soaks can dry and damage the plate.
Disinfectant chemistry: quaternary ammonium compounds are common surface disinfectants; they require pre-cleaning and the labeled contact time to be effective.
Tools: nippers and cuticle pushers are stainless steel and must be disinfected between clients; buffers, files, and orange sticks are single-use porous items.
Implements should be inspected for rust, nicks, and dullness; damaged tools tear the skin and harbor pathogens. Replace rather than repair.
UV/LED lamps: replace bulbs per manufacturer, keep reflectors clean, and never use a lamp with cracked glass; lamp intensity affects cure.
Ventilation: local exhaust or open windows reduce exposure to vapors and dust; wear a dust mask when filing enhancements and avoid breathing dust.
Salon Business, Law, and State Regulation Fundamentals
Licensing: individual practitioners and the salon facility must hold current state licenses; licenses must be displayed and renewed before expiration.
Scope of regulation: state boards (or boards of cosmetology/barbering) set sanitation rules, licensing requirements, and disciplinary procedures; rules vary by state.
Recordkeeping: maintain client records, service logs, and SDS sheets; some states require retention of sanitation and disinfection records for inspection.
Employment classification: an employee is paid wages and covered by workers' compensation; an independent contractor sets their own schedule and pays self-employment tax - misclassification is a legal risk.
Tax basics: sales tax applies to retail products and, in some states, to services; track income and expenses and set aside self-employment tax.
Insurance: professional liability and general liability policies protect against client injury claims and property damage; verify coverage before renting a booth.
Pricing: price = direct costs (product, disposables) + overhead allocation + labor + profit margin; review prices when product costs change.
Advertising and law: do not make medical or curative claims for nail services; avoid false claims about sanitation or product safety.
Client safety law: follow OSHA bloodborne pathogen standards, post required notices, and report serious injuries per state requirements.
Nail Art, Design, and Finishing
Finishing coats: glossy top coat seals and adds shine; matte top coat reduces shine; both should be applied thinly and capped at the free edge.
Drying: quick-dry drops or sprays speed surface drying but do not harden the lower layers; allow adequate time between coats.
French manicure: white tip about one-third of the plate, smile line follows the natural free edge, and the base is a sheer pink or nude.
Glitter and foil: apply over a sticky layer (dispersion layer of gel) and encapsulate; loose glitter on the skin should be removed with tape or a lint roller.
Nail art tools: dotting tools, striping brushes, and stamps must be cleaned and disinfected between clients if they contact skin or plate.
Design durability: keep art away from the cuticle and sidewalls; product on the skin lifts and peels, taking the design with it.
Symmetry check: view the hand from the client's perspective and from the side to verify the apex and free-edge thickness.
Removal of art: use the remover matched to the underlying product; never scrape art off with a metal tool.
Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety
Hand hygiene is the single most effective infection-control measure; wash before and after every client and after glove removal.
Disinfectant must be EPA-registered and labeled as hospital-grade or tuberculocidal for implements that contact skin or plate.
Implements must be cleaned (soap and water, scrubbed) before disinfection; organic matter inactivates disinfectants.
Store disinfected implements in a clean, covered container; never mix clean and dirty implements on the same tray.
Waste: blood-contaminated items go in a labeled biohazard bag; sharps go in a rigid sharps container.
Vaccination: hepatitis B vaccination is recommended for workers with blood exposure; follow employer policy and state rules.
Client screening: refuse service for open wounds, suspected infection, or infestations (lice, scabies) and refer to a physician.
Salon surfaces: work surfaces, lamps, and chairs must be cleaned and disinfected between clients; use the labeled contact time.
Chemical safety: never mix cleaning products (bleach plus ammonia produces toxic gas); store chemicals in labeled original containers.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Hand, Nail, and Skin
Nail plate layers: dorsal, intermediate, and ventral; the ventral layer attaches to the bed and is the thinnest.
Nail bed epidermis is thin and contains longitudinal ridges that interlock with the plate; separation (onycholysis) creates a white space.
The hyponychium is the thickened epidermis under the free edge; it is the main barrier to infection at the distal end.
Cuticle (eponychium) is the living skin at the proximal fold; the cuticle seal must be preserved.
Growth rate factors: faster in summer, in younger people, during pregnancy, and on the dominant hand; slower in winter, in older adults, and with poor circulation.
Skin barrier: the stratum corneum (outermost epidermis) limits water loss and pathogen entry; over-filing or harsh soaks damage it.
Sweat glands (eccrine) are abundant on palms and soles and do not have hair follicles; sebaceous glands are absent on the palms.
Sensory receptors in the dermis detect touch, pressure, temperature, and pain; numbness in the fingers warrants medical referral.
Bone and joint anatomy: the distal interphalangeal joint is near the free edge; avoid pressure over joints during massage.
Nail Disorders, Diseases, and Contraindications
Nail psoriasis causes pitting, oil spots, and onycholysis; it is not contagious but may be aggravated by trauma - avoid aggressive filing.
Onychophagia (nail biting) damages the plate and cuticle and raises infection risk; refer for behavior support and avoid enhancements until healed.
Onychocryptosis (ingrown nail) causes pain, redness, and swelling at the sidewall; do not cut into the sidewall - refer to a podiatrist.
Subungual hematoma (blood under the plate) from trauma should be evaluated medically if painful or spreading.
Splinter hemorrhages are small longitudinal blood lines from trauma; multiple unexplained lines warrant medical referral.
Koilonychia (spoon nail) is a concave plate often linked to iron deficiency; refer for medical evaluation.
Clubbing of the nails (bulging plate, increased angle) may indicate systemic disease; refer.
Bacterial infection signs: redness, heat, swelling, pain, pus. Stop service, do not apply product, and refer; disinfect all contact items.
Contraindication list: open wounds, burns, frostbite, active infection, undiagnosed lesions, severe circulatory problems, and known acrylate allergy.
Manicuring, Pedicuring, and Natural Nail Care
Shape selection: square (strong, for short nails), squoval (rounded corners), oval (classic), almond (long nails), and stiletto (very long); shape follows nail strength and lifestyle.
Cuticle care: apply cuticle oil or cream, push back gently with a rubber or wooden pusher, and never cut living tissue.
Buffing: use a fine buffer lightly to smooth ridges; over-buffing thins the plate and causes sensitivity.
Base coat types: ridge-filling base for uneven plates, bonding base for adhesion, and colored base for opacity.
Polish application: thin coats, three strokes (center, then sides), and cap the free edge; two color coats plus top coat is standard.
Pedicure tools: separate files and rasps for feet from hand tools; label and store separately to prevent cross-contamination.
Callus care: soften with a soak, use a foot rasp gently, and finish with moisturizer; never use a credo blade.
Massage contraindications: fever, inflammation, open lesions, recent surgery, and known circulatory disorders.
Home care: recommend cuticle oil daily, gloves for wet work, and filing in one direction to maintain plate integrity.
Artificial Nail Enhancements and Application Techniques
Nail tip sizing: choose a tip that fits sidewall to sidewall without pressure; a tip that is too wide lifts at the sides.
Tip blending: blend the seam with a medium-grit file, then smooth with a fine grit; a visible seam traps moisture and lifts.
Acrylic application: apply a thin base layer, then a bead at the stress area; press and pat to shape, do not brush repeatedly.
Gel application: apply thin coats, cure fully between layers, and avoid touching the inhibition layer with bare hands.
Hard gel vs. soft gel: hard gel is removed by filing, soft gel by soaking in acetone; never soak hard gel - it will not break down.
Apex placement: the apex sits over the stress area, about one-third of the nail length from the cuticle, and provides strength.
Sidewall filing: keep the file parallel to the sidewall and avoid cutting into the natural sidewall; the enhancement should follow the natural shape.
Lifting causes: moisture on the plate, product on the skin, insufficient bonding, and trauma; fix by proper prep and thin application.
Repair: remove lifted product, clean and disinfect the area, then rebuild; never fill over lifted product.
Nail Art, Design, and Finishing
Color wheel: primary (red, yellow, blue), secondary (orange, green, violet), and tertiary colors; use contrast for accent nails.
Nail shapes affect design: square nails suit geometric art; oval and almond suit florals and gradients.
Gradient (ombre) technique: apply two colors to a sponge or brush and blend while wet; seal with top coat.
Freehand striping: use a long, thin brush and steady pressure; clean the brush between colors to avoid muddy lines.
Decals and stickers: apply over a dry base coat, press flat to remove air bubbles, and seal with top coat.
3D art: use acrylic or gel to build raised elements; cure or set fully before top coating.
Top coat compatibility: some art mediums (chalk, watercolor) require a compatible sealer; test on a swatch first.
Cleanup: remove polish from skin with a brush and remover before curing; polish on skin lifts and peels.
Photography and portfolio: use consistent lighting and a neutral background; obtain client consent before posting images.
Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics
Intake form elements: name, contact, health history, allergies, medications, previous nail services, and consent signature.
Allergy screening: ask specifically about acrylates, nickel, latex, and adhesives; a known acrylate allergy is a contraindication for gel and acrylic.
Expectation management: explain realistic wear time (2–3 weeks for fills), maintenance schedule, and removal process.
Documentation: record products used, service performed, and any reactions; this protects both client and professional.
Boundaries: do not perform services on clients who are intoxicated or who refuse health-history disclosure.
Cultural competence: ask about preferences, avoid assumptions, and use the client's preferred name and pronouns.
Referral language: 'I see something that needs a doctor's evaluation' - describe, do not diagnose.
Payment and policy: state cancellation, late, and refund policies in writing before service.
Social media ethics: never post client images or health information without written consent.
Product Chemistry, Tools, and Equipment
Monomers are volatile and flammable; keep containers closed, away from heat, and use in a ventilated area.
Inhibitor (usually hydroquinone) in monomer prevents premature polymerization; contamination with water or dust accelerates setting.
Powder polymers vary in color and grit; clear powder for encapsulating, pink for a natural look, white for French tips.
Primer (acid-based or acid-free) improves adhesion by etching the plate; apply thinly and never touch skin.
Dehydrator removes surface moisture and oil; it is not the same as primer.
Nail drill bits: carbide for product removal, ceramic for natural nail work, and diamond for fine finishing; match grit to task.
Drill safety: keep the bit moving, use light pressure, and never drill on a nail with no product over the matrix or sidewalls.
UV/LED lamp care: clean the glass and reflectors, replace bulbs per manufacturer, and check that all fingers are fully inserted.
Dust extraction and masks reduce inhalation of filing dust; keep the work area ventilated.
Salon Business, Law, and State Regulation Fundamentals
State board inspections: inspectors check licenses, sanitation logs, disinfection procedures, and SDS availability; keep records organized.
Continuing education: many states require CE hours for license renewal; track certificates and deadlines.
Scope of practice law: performing services outside the licensed scope (e.g., medical treatments) is grounds for discipline.
Booth rental: renters typically need their own license, insurance, and tax registration; the salon owner must still maintain sanitation compliance.
Client records and privacy: store health information securely and dispose of records per state requirements.
Contracts: read lease and booth-rental agreements carefully, including notice periods, fees, and non-compete clauses.
Marketing law: avoid false or misleading claims, and follow rules for coupons, gift certificates, and expiration dates.
Workplace safety: OSHA standards apply to salons; post required notices and train staff on bloodborne pathogens.
Business structure: sole proprietorship, LLC, and corporation differ in liability and taxation; consult a professional for setup.
Nail Art, Design, and Finishing
French and American manicures: French uses white tips; American uses a natural or colored tip with a softer smile line.
Negative-space art: leave areas of the natural nail or base color exposed; seal edges carefully to prevent lifting.
Chrome and mirror powders: apply over a no-wipe top coat, rub in with a silicone tool, and seal with top coat.
Marbling: use a water-based or gel technique; work quickly before the product sets, and clean the surrounding skin.
Encapsulation: embed glitter, lace, or dried flowers in clear acrylic or gel; keep layers thin to avoid bulk.
Nail art durability: avoid thick layers that chip; thin, well-sealed layers last longer.
Finishing tools: use a clean brush for cleanup, and replace top coat when it thickens or becomes stringy.
Design consultation: show swatches or photos, confirm the client's choice, and note any allergies before starting.
Removal: soak off soft gel and acrylic; file off hard gel; never use a metal tool to scrape product from the plate.
Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety
Sanitation vs. disinfection vs. sterilization: sanitation reduces pathogens, disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous items, sterilization destroys all microbial life.
EPA-registered disinfectants must be used at the labeled dilution and contact time; mixing products can reduce efficacy or create hazards.
Implements must be cleaned before disinfection; visible debris inactivates disinfectants.
Porous items (files, buffers, wooden sticks, cotton) are single-use and must be discarded.
Hand washing: soap and water for at least 20 seconds; alcohol rub only when hands are not visibly soiled.
Gloves: change between clients and after contact with blood or body fluids; wash hands after removal.
Blood exposure: wear gloves, clean with detergent, disinfect with a bloodborne-pathogen-labeled product, and dispose of waste in a biohazard bag.
Sharps: place in a rigid, puncture-resistant container; never recap by hand.
SDS and labeling: keep SDS for every chemical and label secondary containers; train staff on hazards.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Hand, Nail, and Skin
Nail plate is keratinized and non-living; the matrix and bed are living tissue that produce and support it.
Nail growth: fingernails about 3 mm per month, toenails about 1 mm per month; full replacement takes 4–6 months (fingers) and 9–12 months (toes).
Matrix: growth center under the proximal fold; injury causes permanent deformity. Lunula is the visible matrix.
Cuticle (eponychium): living seal at the proximal fold; never cut it.
Hyponychium: seal under the free edge; a key barrier against infection.
Skin layers: epidermis (avascular), dermis (vessels, nerves, glands), subcutaneous (fat).
Hand bones: 8 carpals, 5 metacarpals, 14 phalanges; median, ulnar, and radial nerves supply the hand.
Blood supply: radial and ulnar arteries form the palmar arches; digital arteries supply the nail bed.
Sweat glands are abundant on palms; sebaceous glands are absent on the palms and soles.
Nail Disorders, Diseases, and Contraindications
Paronychia: inflammation of tissue around the nail; do not perform cuticle work and refer.
Onychomycosis: fungal infection; thick, discolored, crumbly nails; do not service and disinfect all contact items.
Green nail syndrome: green-black discoloration from pseudomonas; remove product, do not reapply, and refer if persistent.
Onycholysis: separation of plate from bed; do not force product under a lifted edge.
Onychorrhexis: longitudinal ridges and splitting; moisturize and avoid aggressive filing.
Leukonychia: white spots from matrix trauma; they grow out.
Beau's lines: transverse depressions after illness or trauma; they grow out.
Pincer nail: sidewalls curve inward; conservative filing and referral for correction.
Melanonychia: dark longitudinal band; new or changing bands, especially with pigment on the proximal fold, require medical referral.
Manicuring, Pedicuring, and Natural Nail Care
Manicure sequence: consultation → wash → shape → soften cuticles → push back → cleanse plate → massage → base → polish → top coat.
File in one direction from sidewall to center; use 180–240 grit for natural nails.
Soak briefly (3–5 minutes) to avoid plate expansion and splitting.
Pedicure: use a basin liner or hospital-grade disinfectant after each client; keep foot tools separate.
Never use a credo blade on calluses or around the nail; use a rasp or pumice only on callus.
Massage toward the heart; avoid inflamed, broken, or infected skin.
Base coat protects and improves adhesion; top coat seals and adds gloss; cap the free edge.
Dehydrate the plate before polish or enhancement; avoid lotion immediately before application.
Diabetic clients: no cuticle cutting, no sharp tools, and single-use basin liners; inspect and refer any wound.
Artificial Nail Enhancements and Application Techniques
Acrylic ratio: about 1.5 parts powder to 1 part monomer; too wet causes shrinkage and lifting, too dry causes brittleness.
Polymerization is exothermic; too-wet ratio or thick beads generate heat and burning. Use smaller beads and thin layers.
Tip application: size sidewall to sidewall, blend the seam, and keep adhesive off skin and hyponychium.
Forms: align with the free edge and seal the sides so product does not seep under.
Gel cure: often 30–60 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV; replace bulbs per manufacturer and never look into the lamp.
Sculpted shape: apex at the stress area, thin free edge, smooth sidewalls; a flat nail lacks strength.
Filing: medium grit for shaping, fine grit for finishing; never over-file the stress area or sidewalls.
Removal: soak acrylic and soft gel in acetone; file off hard gel; never pry or bite off product.
Contraindications: active infection, damaged or bitten nails, recent surgery, and acrylate allergy.
Nail Art, Design, and Finishing
Proportion: French tip about one-third of the plate; smile line follows the natural free edge.
Color theory: complementary colors contrast; analogous colors harmonize; match warm/cool shades to skin tone.
Layering: base color → art medium → top coat; each layer must dry before the next.
Stamping: apply polish, scrape at a consistent angle, pick up with a rolling motion, and clean the plate between uses.
Airbrush: thin paint to a milk-like consistency, keep the gun perpendicular, and clean the nozzle immediately.
Embedded art must be fully encapsulated; protruding edges lift and trap moisture.
Finish: cap the free edge, avoid flooding the cuticle, and check sidewalls before curing.
Matte top coat changes the finish; apply glossy top coat first if the design must be protected.
Removal follows the underlying product type; acetone dissolves acrylic and gel but may damage art mediums.
Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics
Consultation sequence: greet → assess nails and health history → discuss goals → explain service and products → confirm consent → perform service → review home care.
Health history: diabetes, circulation, skin conditions, allergies (acrylates, nickel, latex), medications, and pregnancy.
Informed consent: explain risks and document agreement, especially for removal, cutting, or strong chemicals.
Confidentiality: client health information is private; do not discuss it publicly.
Scope of practice: do not diagnose or treat disease; describe observations and refer.
Boundaries: maintain a respectful professional relationship; avoid personal involvement and gossip.
Communication: open-ended questions, active listening, and plain language; confirm understanding.
Conflict resolution: listen, acknowledge, offer a specific remedy within policy, and document.
Pricing ethics: quote prices before service, disclose add-on costs, and never perform a declined or contraindicated service.
Product Chemistry, Tools, and Equipment
Acrylic: monomer (liquid, usually ethyl methacrylate) plus polymer (powder); addition polymerization hardens the product and releases heat.
Gels contain photoinitiators that cure under UV or LED; uncured gel must be removed, not wiped, before curing.
Acetone dissolves acrylic and gel; it is flammable and volatile - store closed, away from heat, and use with ventilation.
pH: 0–14; skin and nails prefer slightly acidic products (about pH 4.5–5.5); alkaline soaps and soaks dry the plate.
Quaternary ammonium compounds are common surface disinfectants; they require pre-cleaning and the labeled contact time.
Nippers and pushers are stainless steel and must be disinfected between clients; buffers and files are single-use.
Inspect tools for rust, nicks, and dullness; damaged tools tear skin and harbor pathogens.
UV/LED lamps: replace bulbs per manufacturer, clean reflectors, and never use a cracked lamp.
Ventilation and dust masks reduce exposure to vapors and filing dust.
Salon Business, Law, and State Regulation Fundamentals
Licensing: practitioners and the salon facility must hold current state licenses; display licenses and renew before expiration.
State boards set sanitation rules, licensing requirements, and discipline; rules vary by state.
Recordkeeping: maintain client records, service logs, and SDS; some states require sanitation records for inspection.
Employment: employees receive wages and workers' compensation; independent contractors set their own schedule and pay self-employment tax; misclassification is a legal risk.
Tax: sales tax may apply to retail products and some services; track income and expenses and set aside self-employment tax.
Insurance: professional liability and general liability protect against injury claims and property damage; verify coverage before booth rental.
Pricing: price = direct costs + overhead + labor + profit; review when product costs change.
Advertising: no medical or curative claims; avoid false sanitation or safety claims.
Safety law: follow OSHA bloodborne pathogen standards, post required notices, and report serious injuries per state requirements.