Garment Components, Plackets, Pockets, Collars and Sleeves
Scope
Plackets, pockets, collars, sleeves, cuffs, yokes and facings: function, construction and sequence.
Core rules
- Plackets: continuous, two-piece, French and fly; they open a garment and hide the raw edge. Fly plackets need a zip shield.
- Pockets: patch, welt, slash, in-seam; pocket bags must be reinforced at stress points.
- Collars: shirt, stand, roll, notch, shawl; fusible interlining gives shape; collar roll must match the stand.
- Sleeves: set-in, raglan, kimono, puff; ease is distributed around the sleeve head; notches must match the armhole.
- Interlining: fusible or sew-in; shrink behaviour must match the shell. Cuffs and yokes are usually cut in pairs and mirror each other.
Worked example
A welt pocket on a jacket. Reasoning: the welt hides the opening and takes wear, so interface it. Stitch the welt, slash the opening diagonally to the corners, turn and press, then attach the pocket bag. Under-stitch to stop the welt rolling. The finished mouth must be straight and both ends bar-tacked.
Traps
Stretching the armhole while setting a sleeve; mismatched notches; fusible bubbling from too high a temperature; asymmetric collar points; pocket bag too small.