Fitting a Full, High Bust on a Standard Size-12 Block
A boutique in Jaipur is developing a fitted cotton-poplin bodice for a client whose measurements do not match the standard size chart. The base block is drafted for size 12: bust 92 cm, waist 74 cm, hip 98 cm, waist length 40 cm. The client measures bust 102 cm, waist 78 cm, hip 100 cm and 36 cm waist length, with a full, high bust. The pattern master proposes to add the whole 10 cm bust increase at the side seam only, lengthen the front bodice by 2 cm at the hem, and cut a trial in the same poplin with 1 cm seam allowances. During fitting, diagonal drag lines run from the armhole towards the bust point, the front hem lifts away from the waistline, the side seam swings forward, and the bust darts sit too low and gape at the apex. The client is due for a second fitting in four days and the fabric has already been cut for two more pieces.
1. Critique the pattern master's adjustment and describe the correct bust adjustment for this client, naming the specific pattern operations.
Read the worked answer
Why the side-seam-only addition fails
- A 10 cm bust increase is only 2.5 cm per pattern piece (each front piece is one quarter of the body). Putting it all on the side seam adds width at the underarm and armhole where the body does not need it, and adds no dart intake, so the extra fabric has nowhere to go - this is exactly what shows as the diagonal drag lines from armhole to bust point.
- The apex never moves, so the dart still points to the old bust position. The client's bust is fuller and higher, hence the gaping at the apex and the low dart.
- The front is now wider than the back at the same level, so balance is lost and the side seam swings forward.
- Lengthening 2 cm at the hem adds length where the client is already short-waisted; it does not give room over the bust.
Correct method - full bust adjustment on the front bodice only
- Mark the apex and the bust level.
- Draw a slash line from the apex to the side seam and a second from the apex towards the shoulder/armhole.
- Cut and spread the side-slash by 2.5 cm; this opens the bust dart by the same amount (or creates a new dart).
- Pivot the lower section so the side-seam length and armhole stay true; blend the armhole back.
- Relocate the apex 1–2 cm down/out to match the client's bust point and redraw both dart legs to equal length.
- Add about 1 cm length over the bust, then true waist and hem with centre front on grain.
- Back bodice: only a small side-seam blend at bust level; waist increase of 4 cm means about 1 cm per piece at the side seam.
2. The front hem lifts away from the waistline. Explain the cause and state how you would correct waist length and dart position without losing the bust correction.
Read the worked answer
Cause. The client's waist length is 36 cm against 40 cm on the block, so there is 4 cm too much fabric between the bust and the waistline. The surplus cannot hang, so it rides up and drags the hem away from the waist. Note that this is separate from the bust correction: a full bust needs more length above the bust, while a short waist needs less length below it.
Correction sequence
- Do the bust adjustment first (it adds length over the bust and moves the apex).
- Then shorten the front and back between the bust line and the waistline, taking the 4 cm out in two stages (about 2 cm each) so the side seam and centre front stay on grain; never shorten only at the hem.
- Check that the bust dart point sits 2–3 cm away from the apex, not on it, and that the dart legs are equal.
- Square a new waistline across from centre front to side seam and confirm it is level with the back waist in the fitting.
- Verify the nape-to-front-waist and nape-to-back-waist measurements on the client so the waistline stays horizontal all round.
3. What checks would you complete before cutting the second trial, given only four days and fabric already committed?
Read the worked answer
Paper stage
- Walk all seams: side seam, shoulder, armhole, dart legs, centre front; notch positions must correspond.
- Measure the corrected pattern against the client's chart plus ease: bust 102 + 6–8 cm ease, waist 78 + 3–4 cm, armhole depth, shoulder length.
- Confirm grainline on centre front, and that the dart intake is workable for a poplin (a very wide dart will need converting to a princess seam).
Toile stage
- Cut a calico or spare poplin toile, not the good fabric, since the poplin may shrink 2–3%; pre-shrink or allow for it.
- Fit the toile with the client's own bra, mark the new apex, waistline, dart position and any drag lines in pencil.
- Transfer all markings to the paper pattern before removing the toile, and record changes in the pattern card.
Risk control
- Since two more pieces are already cut, keep them uncut at the side seam until fitting two is approved; the side seam is the cheapest place to alter later.