RBSE Sec Voc Apparel Made-Ups and Home Furnishing cheat sheet

Fibre classification: natural (vegetable: cotton, flax, jute; animal: wool, silk; mineral: asbestos) vs man-made (regenerated: viscose, modal, lyocell; synthetic: polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex).

Staple fibres are short (cotton 10-65 mm, wool 25-300 mm) and are spun; filament fibres are continuous (silk, polyester filament) and may be textured or cut into staple.

Cotton is ~90% cellulose, absorbs moisture readily (regain ~8.5%), is weakened by strong acids and by prolonged sunlight, and is strengthened ~20% when wet.

Wool is a protein (keratin) with overlapping scales; scales plus crimp cause felting shrinkage; wool is weakened by alkali and chlorine, damaged by hot water agitation, and has regain ~13-16%.

Silk is a continuous protein filament; degumming removes sericin; it loses ~20% strength when wet and is damaged by alkalis, perspiration and sunlight.

Polyester is a condensation polymer (PET); it is thermoplastic, low moisture regain (~0.4%), strong, and heat-sensitive - ironing above ~150 °C can glaze or shrink it.

Yarn count systems: indirect (English cotton count Ne = length in hanks of 840 yd per lb; metric Nm) - higher number = finer yarn; direct (tex = g per 1000 m; denier = g per 9000 m) - higher number = coarser yarn.

Weave terminology: warp = lengthwise, higher twist, stronger; weft = crosswise. Plain weave has interlacing every pick; twill shows diagonal lines; satin has long floats giving lustre and low abrasion resistance.

Fabric weight and cover depend on yarn count, sett (ends/picks per inch) and weave; GSM (g/m²) is the standard mass per unit area measure for comparing fabrics.

Body measurements for drafting: bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder, back length, front length, armhole depth, sleeve length; take over close-fitting clothing with the tape snug but not tight.

Basic blocks are developed from a set of measurements plus ease; working patterns add design ease and seam allowance on top of the close-fitting block.

Standard seam allowances: 1 cm (3/8 in) on most seams, 1.5-2 cm on waistlines and centre fronts, 4-5 cm on hems; allow extra on areas to be altered.

Dart manipulation: a dart can be moved to any position around a pivot point without changing fit; slashing and spreading adds volume (gathers, flares) while pivoting only relocates the dart.

Bodice block: front neck to waist = front length; back neck to waist = back length; the difference (bust dart) is taken as dart intake or ease at the bust point.

Trueing: after drafting, walk the seams (e.g. side seam front vs back, sleeve cap vs armhole) and correct notches and lengths so pieces sew together without easing errors.

Grading rules: grade by increments between sizes (commonly 4-6 cm bust/hip, 4-5 cm waist per size step); grade points at cardinal points (bust, waist, hip, shoulder) and hold fixed points such as centre back and armhole depth.

Grain line must be parallel to centre front/back and to the warp; a shifted grain line causes garments to twist and hang unevenly.

Pattern markings: notches for matching, drill holes for dart points and pocket placement, balance marks, fold lines, and cut-on-fold symbols.

Stitch types: lockstitch (ISO 301) for general seaming, chainstitch (401) for stretch and basting, overlock (504/514) for edge neatening and knits, coverstitch (602/605) for hemming knits.

Stitch density: 10-14 stitches per inch (about 2.5-3 mm per stitch) is standard for woven apparel; too few stitches cause seam grin, too many cause thread breakage and fabric damage.

Seam types: plain (open pressed), French (enclosed, light fabrics), flat-fell (denim, strong), lapped, and welt; seam strength depends on stitch type, thread, SPI and seam allowance.

Sleeve setting: ease the cap between notches with two rows of long stitches; cap ease is typically 2-4 cm depending on fabric and shoulder pad.

Zipper insertion: centred, lapped and invisible; invisible zippers require a special foot and are sewn before the seam is closed.

Interfacing and fusibles: apply with correct temperature, pressure and time; test on a scrap because fusing shrinks and stiffens the fabric handle.

Pressing: under-pressing during construction (press as you sew) versus final pressing; use a clapper, pressing cloth and point presser; woollens need steam and dry heat, synthetics low heat.

Hems: plain turned, blind (machine or hand), rolled, and faced; hem allowance is generally deeper on skirts and trousers than on sleeves.

Elements of design: line, shape/form, colour, texture, space; principles: balance, rhythm, proportion, emphasis, harmony/unity.

Silhouette families: A-line, H-line (straight), Y-line (fitted top/flared bottom), bustle/back-fullness, and tubular; silhouette is chosen to flatter the wearer's body proportions.

Colour theory: hue, value, intensity; primary/secondary/tertiary; complementary (opposite) schemes give contrast, analogous (adjacent) give harmony, monochromatic uses one hue in varying values.

Value and intensity control visual weight: dark, dull colours recede; light, bright colours advance; vertical lines lengthen, horizontal lines widen.

Design process: inspiration/research, mood board, croquis and flat sketches, fabric and colour selection, prototype/toile, fit evaluation, final spec sheet.

Technical flats and spec sheets carry measurements, construction details, stitch and seam types, trims and label placement for production.

Fit evaluation points: bust apex, shoulder seam position, armhole comfort, waist/hip alignment, grain line verticality, and drag lines indicating tightness or twist.

Fashion cycle stages: introduction, rise, peak, decline, obsolescence; classics have long cycles, fads short ones.

Embroidery stitches: running, back, stem, chain, satin, lazy daisy, French knot, cross stitch; hand embroidery is classified as counted-thread or free-style.

Machine embroidery uses hooping, stabiliser (tear-away, cut-away, wash-away) and topping; density and underlay prevent puckering.

Appliqué: fabric shapes stitched onto a base; techniques include raw-edge, turned-edge, reverse appliqué (Mola) and fusible web appliqué.

Quilting: layers of top, wadding and backing held by stitching; trapunto is stuffed quilting; kantha is a running-stitch quilting tradition.

Printing methods: block, screen (flat-bed and rotary), roller, transfer/sublimation, digital inkjet; screen printing deposits thick colour and suits bold repeats.

Dyeing: fibre, yarn, piece and garment dyeing; tie-dye, batik (wax resist), shibori and bandhani are resist techniques; mordants fix natural dyes.

Embellishments: beads, sequins, mirrors (shisha), zari/zardosi, lace, ribbons, tassels, fringes, patchwork; check weight and washability before application.

Embroidery design rules: transfer the motif with pricking and pouncing or tracing; keep stitch direction consistent and back the work for stability.

Bed linen sizes: single, double, queen, king; fitted sheets need pocket depth plus 10-15 cm allowance, flat sheets need tuck-in of 25-30 cm on three sides.

Curtain calculations: fabric width = window width × fullness ratio (1.5 for pencil pleat, 2-2.5 for gathered/eyelet); length = drop plus hem and heading allowances.

Curtain headings: pencil pleat, pinch pleat, goblet, tab top, eyelet, rod pocket; heading tape determines gather ratio and hook position.

Cushion covers: measure insert and add seam allowance plus 2-3 cm ease; envelope or zip closure; piping adds 1-1.5 cm to the finished size.

Table linen: cloth drop is typically 20-30 cm for casual and 40 cm or to the floor for formal; runners are one-third of table width.

Made-ups categories: bed linen, table linen, kitchen textiles, curtains, towels, blankets, cushions, quilts and bath mats; GSM and thread count are key quality indicators.

Thread count = threads per square inch (warp + weft); 200-400 is good quality cotton sheeting; very high claims may use multi-ply yarn counting.

Colour fastness and shrinkage matter in home textiles because they are washed frequently; pre-shrink fabric before cutting curtains and quilts.

Supply chain stages: fibre production → spinning → weaving/knitting → dyeing and finishing → garment manufacturing → retail; each stage adds value and lead time.

Spinning systems: ring, rotor (open-end), air-jet and compact; ring yarn is stronger and finer, rotor yarn is bulkier and cheaper.

Knitting: weft knitting (single jersey, rib, interlock) versus warp knitting (tricot, raschel); knits stretch, so patterns need negative ease.

Garment manufacturing sequence: design and sampling → cutting (marker, spreading, cutting) → sewing (line or modular) → finishing/pressing → inspection → packing and dispatch.

Marker efficiency = area of pattern pieces ÷ area of marker; higher efficiency means less fabric waste; fabric utilisation is a major cost driver.

Terms of trade: FOB, CIF, CMT (cut-make-trim), and buyer compliance audits (social, technical, quality) are standard in export apparel.

Quality standards and certifications: ISO 9001, OEKO-TEX Standard 100, GOTS for organic cotton, SA8000 for social accountability, and AQL sampling for inspection.

Costing components: fabric, trims, labour, overheads, wastage, and margin; fabric typically accounts for 50-60% of garment cost.

Business plan elements: product/service description, market analysis, target customer, operations, costing and pricing, marketing plan, and financial projections.

Pricing methods: cost-plus (cost + markup), competitive pricing, and value-based pricing; break-even quantity = fixed costs ÷ (unit price − variable cost per unit).

Start-up options in apparel: tailoring unit, boutique, embroidery/embellishment service, home furnishing studio, online resale, and freelance design.

Legal and compliance basics: business registration, GST where applicable, MSME/Udyam registration, labour norms, and labelling requirements for fibre content and care.

Marketing channels: social media portfolios, craft exhibitions and melas, local retail tie-ups, e-commerce marketplaces, and word-of-mouth referrals.

Career roles: pattern maker, grader, sampling tailor, CAD designer, merchandiser, quality inspector, embroidery designer, and entrepreneur.

Employability skills: measurement accuracy, machine maintenance, communication with buyers, costing literacy, time management, and portfolio presentation.

Sources of finance: own savings, family, bank loans, government schemes and microfinance; keep records of income, expenses and inventory.

Care label symbols: washtub (temperature and dots), triangle (bleach), square (drying), iron (dots for temperature), circle (dry clean) - labels are legally required in many markets.

Washing variables: temperature, detergent type, mechanical action and time; wool needs cool water and neutral detergent; cotton tolerates hot water and alkaline detergent.

Shrinkage control: pre-shrink fabric, use sanforised cotton, and wash at recommended temperature; cotton may shrink 3-5% on first wash.

Stain removal: treat promptly, blot not rub, use cold water for protein stains (blood, egg, milk) and solvents for grease; never use chlorine bleach on wool or silk.

Quality parameters: dimensional stability, colour fastness (to washing, rubbing, light, perspiration), seam strength, pilling, and appearance after laundering.

AQL inspection: lot sampling by Acceptable Quality Level; major and minor defects are classified; a lot is accepted if defects are within the sampling plan.

Machine safety: guard needles and belts, keep fingers away from the needle, unplug before threading or cleaning, and use a needle guard and correct needle for fabric.

Ergonomics and workplace safety: adjustable chair and table height, good lighting, frequent breaks, and safe storage of pins, scissors and chemicals.

Practical components typically include a sample file (seams, darts, zipper, placket, pocket, hem), a drafted and stitched garment, an embellishment sample, and a home furnishing article.

Sample file requirements: labelled samples showing seam type, stitch type, SPI, and fabric used; neatness and correct pressing are graded.

Garment construction assessment: correct grain, fit, seam finish, hem evenness, button/buttonhole placement, and final pressing.

Portfolio contents: mood board, croquis, technical flats, fabric swatches, specification sheets, photographs of finished work, and reflection notes.

Internal assessment marks usually combine practical file, project work, viva voce and periodic tests; keep records dated and signed.

Documentation: maintain a record book with measurements, drafting steps, fabric consumption and costing for each project.

Presentation: mount samples neatly, use consistent labelling, and explain design decisions and construction choices in the viva.

Time management: plan the project timeline (design, draft, cut, stitch, finish) and keep a buffer for fitting and alterations.

Marking criteria commonly weight accuracy of drafting, quality of stitching, neatness of finish, originality of design, and portfolio completeness.

Viva questions often cover fibre identification by burn test, seam and stitch classification, pattern terminology, and care labelling.

Burn test results: cotton smells of burning paper with grey ash; wool smells of burning hair with crushable black ash; polyester melts and beads with a chemical smell.

Fabric identification by feel and appearance: cotton is matte and cool, silk is lustrous and smooth, wool is warm and springy, polyester is smooth and slightly slick.

Portfolio evidence should show progression: initial sketches, corrected patterns, toiles, final garment and evaluation of fit.

Safety and discipline marks may include correct use of machines, tidiness of workspace, and adherence to deadlines.

Record keeping: date each entry, note fabric details and costs, and attach a small swatch to the record for traceability.

Self-evaluation: compare finished garment against the design brief and note improvements for the next project.

Project cycle: brief → research → design development → pattern drafting → toile/fit → cutting → construction → finishing → evaluation → portfolio.

Fabric consumption estimate for a simple garment uses marker length × fabric width; add 5-10% for matching, shrinkage and wastage.

Toile (muslin) fitting checks ease, balance, dart position and length before cutting the final fabric.

Construction order for a basic bodice: darts → shoulder seams → neckline finish → armhole/sleeve → side seams → hem → closures → pressing.

Quality checkpoints at each stage: grain alignment at cutting, notch matching at sewing, seam pressing before crossing seams, and final inspection under good light.

Costing sheet: fabric metres × rate + trims + labour + overheads + margin = selling price; keep receipts for internal assessment records.

Photograph work in good light on a plain background; include close-ups of construction details for the portfolio.

Reflective note: state what worked, what failed, and the specific change you would make next time.