Fabric Construction: Weaving, Knitting and Non-woven
Fabric Construction: Weaving, Knitting and Non-woven
This domain checks whether you can recognise the construction route and predict fabric behaviour from the interlacing or loop structure.
Weaving
Weaving uses two yarn sets: warp yarns run lengthwise and usually have more twist and strength; weft yarns run crosswise. Basic weaves are plain (1/1, maximum interlacing, firm and less lustrous), twill (diagonal line, commonly 2/2, good drape and durability), and satin or sateen (long floats, high lustre, poor abrasion resistance). Derivatives include rib, basket, herringbone, and diaper weaves.
Knitting
Weft knitting forms loops across the width. Single jersey has face loops on one side and purl on the other and curls at the edges. Rib has alternating knit and purl wales and stretches. Warp knitting forms loops along the length, as in tricot and raschel. Knitted fabrics generally stretch more than woven fabrics.
Non-woven
A non-woven is a web of fibres bonded mechanically, thermally, or chemically, with no yarn interlacing. Examples include felt, interfacing, disposable masks, and geotextiles.
Worked example
A fabric shows a clear diagonal line from lower left to upper right on the face and is firm with good drape. Identify the weave and give one reason. A continuous diagonal is the signature of twill; the 2/2 arrangement gives longer floats than plain weave, so it drapes better while remaining durable. Satin would show floats but no regular diagonal; plain weave would show a checkerboard effect, not a diagonal.
Traps that cost marks
Do not call felt a woven fabric. Do not confuse wale, a vertical column of loops, with course, a horizontal row. Do not say satin is the most abrasion-resistant weave. Do not treat all non-wovens as weak; bonding method controls strength.