Pattern Making, Measurement and Drafting
Pattern Making, Measurement and Drafting
This domain tests measurement accuracy, the logic of a basic block, and the markings that make a pattern usable.
Methods and tools
Drafting uses measurements and formulas; flat pattern manipulates a basic block; draping shapes fabric on a dress form. Tools include tape measure, L-square, French curve, hip curve, pattern paper, tracing wheel, notcher, and awl.
Key measurements
Record bust or chest, waist, hip, shoulder width, back neck to waist, front length, sleeve length, armhole circumference, and apex-to-apex distance. Measure over light clothing, keep the tape level, and record in centimetres.
Drafting logic
A basic bodice block includes ease: bust plus 5 cm ease, divided by 4 for the front and back panels. Waist dart intake is the difference between the bust and waist sections, distributed among darts. Add seam allowance separately, usually 1 cm, and 1.5 cm at the waist.
Worked example
Bust is 90 cm and ease is 5 cm. Quarter-bust = (90 + 5) divided by 4 = 23.75 cm. Waist is 70 cm with 3 cm ease, so quarter-waist = 18.25 cm. Dart intake at the side panel = 23.75 minus 18.25 = 5.5 cm before distributing front and back darts. The reasoning keeps body measurement and garment measurement separate.
Traps that cost marks
Do not draft with body measurements only; ease is essential. Do not omit grainline, notches, and seam allowance. Do not place front and back on the same grain without checking. Do not confuse apex distance with bust width.