Garment Technology: Pattern Making, Cutting, Sewing and Finishing
What the exam tests
Garment technology moves from body measurements to packed garment. Questions centre on pattern terminology, cutting-room efficiency and the stitch and seam types used on industrial machines.
Pattern making
Patterns start from a block drafted to body measurements, then are adapted and graded across sizes. A pattern carries the grain line, notches, darts, balance marks and seam allowance. Seam allowance is added outside the stitching line - commonly 1 cm on most seams and 2.5–4 cm on hems. Ease is the difference between body and garment measurement that allows movement.
Cutting
The cut plan is the marker, laid on a spread of many plies. Methods include straight knife, band knife, die or click for small parts, and CNC or laser cutting. Marker efficiency = (area of pattern pieces ÷ area of marker) × 100; it drives fabric cost per garment. Checks and stripes must be matched at the marker stage, and cut parts are bundled with shade and size tickets.
Sewing and finishing
Stitch classes: 301 lockstitch (straight seams), 401 chainstitch (strong, extensible), 504 overlock (edge neatening), 516 safety stitch. Seam classes: superimposed, lapped and bound. Stitch density is usually 12–14 stitches per inch, with finer needles and threads on lightweight fabric. Finishing covers pressing, fusing of interlinings, stain removal, inspection, folding and packing.
Worked example
A marker 10 m long and 1.5 m wide (15 m²) has 12.6 m² of pattern area. Efficiency = 12.6 ÷ 15 × 100 = 84%. At Rs 120 per metre of fabric, raising efficiency to 88% cuts fabric consumption on every lay - a direct reduction in material cost per garment.
Traps
Forgetting seam allowance when drafting; mixing stitch class with seam class; ignoring the grain line, which causes twisting after washing; leaving pattern matching out of the marker.