UPMSP Vocational Laundry & Dyeing study materials
UPMSP Vocational Laundry & Dyeing study resources

UPMSP Vocational Laundry & Dyeing cheat sheet

UPMSP Vocational Laundry & Dyeing · Keep the key ideas within reach.

Quick reference

Fundamentals of Laundry and Dyeing

  • Four laundry factors act together: mechanical action, temperature, chemical action and time; increasing one allows reducing another to protect the fabric.

  • Sinner's circle: for a fixed cleaning result, the four factors are interchangeable within limits; delicate fibres need low mechanical action compensated by longer time or milder chemistry.

  • Soil types: water-soluble (sugars, salts), oily/greasy (sebum, cooking oil), particulate (clay, soot), proteinaceous (blood, egg, milk) and bleachable (tea, wine, fruit).

  • Protein stains coagulate above roughly 40 °C, so blood and egg must be washed cool before any hot treatment.

  • Dyeing is a mass-transfer process: dye moves from the bath to the fibre surface, then diffuses into the fibre; levelness depends on slow, uniform exhaustion.

  • Fibre moisture regain determines comfort and ironing behaviour: cotton about 8.5 %, viscose about 11-13 %, wool about 16 %, polyester about 0.4 %.

  • Alkalis swell cotton and increase dye uptake but damage wool and silk; acids are tolerated by protein fibres and attack cotton.

  • Water hardness is expressed as mg/L CaCO3; 0-60 soft, 60-120 moderately soft, 120-180 hard, above 180 very hard.

Quick reference

Textile Fibres and Fabric Identification

  • Burning test: cotton burns fast with a paper smell and grey ash; wool/silk self-extinguish with a burnt-hair smell and crushable black bead; polyester melts and shrinks with a sweet chemical smell and hard bead.

  • Solubility test: cotton dissolves in 70 % sulphuric acid; wool dissolves in 5 % sodium hypochlorite; polyester is resistant to most cold acids and alkalis.

  • Microscopy: cotton is a flattened twisted ribbon; wool shows overlapping scales; silk is smooth and triangular; viscose shows longitudinal striations; synthetics are smooth rods.

  • Plain weave: maximum interlacing, strong and firm, least drape. Twill weave: diagonal lines, better drape and soil hiding. Satin: long floats, high lustre, low abrasion resistance.

  • Knitted fabrics stretch because loops can re-form; woven fabrics are stable on the grain but fray at cut edges.

  • Regenerated fibres (viscose, modal, lyocell) lose strength when wet - about 40-50 % for viscose - so they must not be rubbed or wrung hard.

  • Blend identification requires more than one test: a polyester-cotton blend leaves a hard bead plus paper ash and burns with mixed odour.

  • Natural fibres are hydrophilic with polar groups; synthetic fibres are hydrophobic, so they attract oily soil more and release it less easily in water.

Quick reference

Stain Removal and Spotting Techniques

  • Spotting rule: work from the back of the fabric over an absorbent pad, from the outside of the stain inward, to avoid rings.

  • Always test an unseen area with the spotting agent for colour bleed and fibre damage before treating the visible stain.

  • Protein stains (blood, milk, egg, grass): cool water and enzyme detergent; never hot water or alkaline agents first.

  • Tannin stains (tea, coffee, wine, fruit): hot water plus a mild acid such as dilute acetic acid or a tannin remover.

  • Oil and grease: solvent-based agents or absorbent powder first; add water only after the solvent has been flushed out.

  • Rust: oxalic acid or a proprietary rust remover, followed by thorough rinsing; never chlorine bleach, which fixes rust.

  • Ink: alcohol or amyl acetate for ballpoint, water-based remover for fountain pen; test first because some inks contain dyes that bleed.

  • Chlorine bleach on wool or silk causes yellowing and fibre loss; oxygen bleach (perborate/percarbonate) is the safe alternative at 40-60 °C.

Quick reference

Washing Processes

  • Wash cycle sequence: pre-wash/flush, main wash with detergent, rinse, fabric conditioner in the final rinse, then extraction (spin).

  • Low-temperature programmes (30-40 °C) save energy but need longer time or enzyme detergent to match the cleaning result of 60 °C.

  • Wool and silk use a gentle/delicate cycle at 30 °C or hand wash, low agitation and low spin, with a neutral or wool-specific detergent.

  • Sorting rules: by colour (white, light, dark), by fibre and construction, and by degree of soiling; new dark garments are washed separately to avoid bleeding.

  • Load the drum loosely - roughly 80 % of drum volume - so that mechanical action can occur; overloading causes poor rinsing and creasing.

  • Bleach must never be mixed with acid or ammonia; chlorine bleach plus acid releases toxic chlorine gas.

  • Soaking time is typically 15-30 minutes; prolonged soaking of protein-stained or viscose items risks dye bleed and fibre damage.

  • Hard water requires water softener or a builder in the detergent; otherwise soap forms scum and detergent performance drops.

Quick reference

Soaps and Detergents

  • Soap is a salt of a fatty acid (e.g., sodium stearate); it is biodegradable but forms insoluble scum with calcium and magnesium in hard water.

  • A detergent molecule has a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail; micelle formation lifts oily soil into the wash liquor.

  • Surfactant types: anionic (best on cotton, good oily soil removal, high foaming), non-ionic (low foam, good on synthetics, works at low temperature), cationic (fabric softeners, germicidal), amphoteric (mild, used in shampoos and gentle detergents).

  • Builders soften water and supply alkalinity: sodium carbonate, sodium silicate, zeolites (4A), citrates; phosphates are restricted because of eutrophication.

  • Enzymes are substrate-specific: protease (protein), amylase (starch), lipase (fat), cellulase (fuzz/cotton surface). Enzymes work best at 30-50 °C and are denatured above about 60 °C.

  • Optical brighteners absorb UV and re-emit blue light, making white fabric appear brighter; they are not bleaches and do not remove soil.

  • Detergent pH: soap and carbonate-built powders are alkaline (pH 9-11); wool-safe detergents are neutral to mildly acidic (pH 5.5-7).

  • Foam height is not a measure of cleaning power; low-foam non-ionic detergents suit front-loading machines and automatic dosing.

Quick reference

Laundry Equipment, Tools and Safety

  • Front-loading machines use a tumbling action with low water and low foam; top-loaders use an agitator with higher mechanical action and water use.

  • Drum capacity is rated in kilograms of dry load; overloading beyond the rating damages bearings and reduces cleaning.

  • Steam boiler/iron temperatures: cotton 180-220 °C, linen up to 230 °C, wool 150-160 °C, silk 120-140 °C, polyester 110-150 °C.

  • Electrical safety: RCD/earth leakage protection, no wet hands on plugs, damaged cords replaced, machines on a dedicated circuit.

  • Chemical safety: store alkalis and acids separately, keep SDS (safety data sheets) accessible, and never decant chemicals into unlabelled bottles.

  • Personal protective equipment for spotting and dyeing: nitrile gloves, goggles, apron, and ventilation for solvent and dye powder handling.

  • Dye powder is a respiratory sensitiser; weigh it in a ventilated area and wear a dust mask when handling powdered dyes.

  • Tumble dryer lint filters must be cleaned every cycle; lint build-up is a fire hazard and reduces drying efficiency.

Quick reference

Finishing, Ironing and Pressing

  • Ironing moves the iron over the fabric; pressing applies the iron with pressure and lift; mangling passes fabric between heated rollers for flatwork.

  • Moisture plus heat plus pressure sets the shape: cotton and linen are pressed damp, wool is steamed and pressed dry with a cloth.

  • Iron temperature order from low to high: acetate, silk, wool, polyester, cotton, linen.

  • Ironing on the wrong side protects lustre and prevents shine on wool and dark synthetics; use a pressing cloth for delicate or embellished items.

  • Steam relaxes fibres and removes creases; too much steam on viscose or wool can stretch the garment, so support the full weight.

  • Permanent press and resin finishes can be damaged by high iron temperatures, causing glazing or a permanent shine.

  • Folding and hanging: knits are folded flat to prevent shoulder stretch; woven shirts and trousers are hung on shaped hangers.

  • Spotting and pressing must be separated; pressing a stained garment sets the stain and makes removal nearly impossible.

Quick reference

Dyeing Principles

  • Dye uptake depends on fibre chemistry: cellulose (cotton, viscose) takes direct, reactive and vat dyes; protein (wool, silk) takes acid, reactive and metal-complex dyes; polyester takes disperse dyes.

  • Exhaustion is the proportion of dye transferred from the bath to the fibre; fixation is the proportion chemically or physically locked into the fibre.

  • Dyeing rate is controlled by temperature, pH, electrolyte (salt) concentration and auxiliaries (levelling agents, retarders).

  • Salt (sodium chloride or sulphate) promotes exhaustion of direct and reactive dyes on cellulose by reducing the electrical barrier.

  • Alkali (soda ash) fixes reactive dyes by forming covalent bonds with cellulose hydroxyl groups.

  • Acid dyes on wool need acid (acetic or formic) to protonate the fibre and attract the anionic dye; too fast acid addition causes unevenness.

  • Disperse dyes on polyester require high temperature (about 130 °C under pressure) or a carrier, because the fibre is hydrophobic and tightly packed.

  • Colour fastness is rated 1-5 on grey scales (ISO 105): 5 means no change or staining; fastness to washing, light, rubbing and perspiration are the usual tests.

Quick reference

Dyes and Dye Classes

  • Direct dyes: water-soluble, applied to cellulose with salt, simple but moderate wash fastness; often after-treated for improvement.

  • Reactive dyes: form covalent bonds with the fibre, giving high wash fastness on cotton; require salt and alkali and thorough soaping-off of unfixed dye.

  • Vat dyes (indigo, vat blue): insoluble pigments reduced to a soluble leuco form in alkaline sodium hydrosulphite, applied to cellulose, then oxidised back in the fibre.

  • Acid dyes: anionic, applied to wool, silk and nylon in an acid bath; bright shades but variable light fastness.

  • Disperse dyes: sparingly soluble, applied as a dispersion to polyester, acetate and nylon; the only practical class for polyester.

  • Basic (cationic) dyes: applied to acrylic and, with a mordant, to wool and silk; very bright but poor light fastness on many substrates.

  • Sulphur dyes: cheap, dark shades (black, navy, brown) on cotton with good wash fastness but poor light fastness and environmental concerns.

  • Pigments are insoluble and are fixed with a binder rather than by affinity; used in textile printing and garment dyeing of blends.

Quick reference

Dyeing Methods and Application Techniques

  • Exhaust dyeing: the fibre and the bath are heated together with agitation; the liquor-to-goods ratio (e.g., 1:10 to 1:20) determines dye concentration.

  • Pad-dyeing: fabric is passed through the dye liquor, squeezed to a fixed pick-up (often 60-80 %), then fixed by steam, dry heat or cold batching.

  • Cold pad-batch: padding with reactive dye and alkali, then batching at room temperature for 12-24 hours; saves energy and suits small runs.

  • Garment dyeing is used for fashion shades and stock control, but seams, zips and trims may dye differently from the main fabric.

  • Tie-dye and batik are resist methods: the resist (binding or wax) prevents dye access and creates the pattern.

  • Levelness is improved by starting at low temperature, adding dye slowly, controlling pH and using a levelling agent.

  • After-treatment: rinsing, soaping-off (reactive), oxidation (vat), and back-tanning or fixing agents where fastness must be improved.

  • Dyeing faults: patchiness from poor agitation, barré from yarn variation, bronzing from too much dye, and tippiness from uneven fibre maturity.

Quick reference

Care Labelling

  • The wash tub symbol gives the maximum wash temperature in °C; a hand in the tub means hand wash only; a crossed tub means do not wash.

  • A triangle means bleaching is allowed; diagonal lines inside mean oxygen (non-chlorine) bleach only; a crossed triangle means no bleach.

  • A square with a circle is tumble drying; dots give heat level - 1 dot low, 2 dots medium, 3 dots high; a crossed symbol means do not tumble dry.

  • An iron symbol with dots: 1 dot about 110 °C (synthetics), 2 dots about 150 °C (wool/polyester blend), 3 dots about 200 °C (cotton/linen).

  • A circle means dry cleaning; the letter inside (P, F, A) tells the solvent class; a crossed circle means do not dry clean.

  • A square with a horizontal line means dry flat; with a vertical line means line dry; with three vertical lines means drip dry.

  • Care labels are permanent and must reflect the harshest treatment the garment can take; fibre content must be stated on the label.

  • Symbols are read in order: wash, bleach, dry, iron, professional care; a crossed symbol is an absolute prohibition.

Quick reference

Fabric Care and Storage

  • Store clean garments: body oils and perspiration oxidise over time and cause yellowing that is hard to reverse.

  • Wool and silk are protein fibres and are attacked by clothes moths and carpet beetles; store in sealed bags with cedar or lavender.

  • Viscose loses strength when wet and must be dried flat, reshaped while damp, and never hung wet on a hanger.

  • Knits are stored folded, not hung, to avoid shoulder distortion; heavy beaded garments are stored flat.

  • Sunlight degrades cellulose and many dyes; store garments away from direct light, and dry coloured items in the shade.

  • Polyester and nylon are thermoplastic: cool before folding after ironing, or permanent creases form.

  • Mould grows on damp natural fibres; storage humidity should stay below about 60 % RH and garments must be fully dry.

  • Leather and suede need ventilation, not plastic bags, and should be kept away from direct heat.

Quick reference

Entrepreneurship

  • Break-even quantity = fixed costs / (price per unit − variable cost per unit); it shows the minimum order volume needed to avoid loss.

  • Pricing for a laundry service should cover chemicals, utilities, labour, machine depreciation and overhead, plus a profit margin.

  • Value-added services (stain removal, ironing only, pick-up and delivery, dry cleaning of formal wear) raise average revenue per customer.

  • Record keeping: daily cash book, order register with garment count and condition notes, and a simple profit-and-loss statement each month.

  • Customer acquisition for a small laundry relies on location, word of mouth, visible quality (packaging, finishing) and transparent pricing.

  • Working capital is needed for detergent stock, rent, electricity and wages before payment is collected from contract customers.

  • A written order slip signed by the customer, noting pre-existing damage, is the main protection against damage claims.

  • Government support for small enterprises commonly includes subsidised loans, skill training and registration under the local MSME framework.

Quick reference

Workshop Management and Customer Service

  • Workflow layout: reception and tagging, sorting, washing, drying, spotting, finishing, quality check, packing and delivery - each in a defined zone.

  • Tag every garment at intake with a unique order number; loose tags and pin marks cause mix-ups and damage claims.

  • Quality check before packing: no stains, no missing buttons, correct crease, correct garment count against the order slip.

  • Chemical stock control: label, date of opening, keep away from food, and rotate stock using first-in-first-out.

  • Housekeeping and safety: dry floors, spill kits, fire extinguisher suitable for electrical and chemical fires, and clear exits.

  • Customer complaint handling: listen, inspect the garment, refer to the signed order slip, and offer a defined remedy (re-clean, repair or compensation).

  • Staff training in fibre identification and stain removal reduces costly errors more than any other single measure.

  • Turnaround time and capacity planning: estimate daily capacity in kilograms, and do not accept orders beyond capacity during peak seasons.

Quick reference

Care Labelling and Fabric Care Cross-Check

  • The care label is the final authority: if a customer requests a treatment the label forbids, record the instruction in writing before proceeding.

  • Fibre plus construction decide the care method; two garments of the same fibre can carry different labels because of trims, dyes or finishes.

  • A 'dry clean only' label on viscose or wool usually reflects shrinkage or finish risk, not fibre weakness alone.

  • Symbols on imported garments may follow ISO 3758 or national variants; when in doubt, use the mildest interpretation.

  • Never remove or cover a care label during cleaning; it is the reference for the customer and for any claim.

  • Colour-fastness test before any wet treatment: apply the agent to a hidden seam and blot with white cloth after 5 minutes.

  • Care instructions must be passed on to the customer at delivery, especially for the first wash of dark or new garments.

Quick reference

Stain Removal and Washing Integration

  • Spotting before washing, not after: heat in the wash or dryer sets protein and tannin stains permanently.

  • Match the spotting agent to the stain class, then match the wash programme to the fibre; the two decisions are independent.

  • Flush with the solvent that matches the agent: water-based agents are flushed with water, solvent agents with solvent, to avoid rings.

  • Enzyme detergents at 30-40 °C handle protein and starch residues that spotting alone may leave behind.

  • After spotting, always rinse and dry the area before pressing, or the chemical can concentrate and damage the fibre.

  • Record every spotting treatment on the order slip, including agent and time, so a claim can be assessed fairly.

  • If a stain cannot be removed after two safe attempts, stop and inform the customer rather than risk fibre damage.

Quick reference

Dyeing Safety and Colour Matching

  • Weigh dyes and chemicals to 0.01 g accuracy; small errors change shade noticeably in small batches.

  • Prepare a stock solution for small shade adjustments rather than weighing powder repeatedly.

  • Match shade under standard daylight or a D65 lamp; metamerism means two samples can match under one light and differ under another.

  • Record the recipe as percentage on weight of fibre (owf), liquor ratio, temperature profile, pH and time, so the shade can be repeated.

  • Rinse and dry the sample before judging the final shade; wet fabric appears darker than dry fabric.

  • Dye powders are hazardous: wear a dust mask and gloves, and never eat or drink in the dye area.

  • Spent dye baths must be treated before disposal; heavy metals and unfixed dye should not enter drains untreated.

Quick reference

Equipment Maintenance and Troubleshooting

  • Washing machine not draining: check the filter, drain hose kinks and pump; a blocked coin trap is the most common cause.

  • Excessive vibration on spin: an unbalanced load, worn shock absorbers or a machine not levelled on the floor.

  • Poor cleaning result: check detergent dose, water hardness, loading, temperature and programme before suspecting the machine.

  • Lint on dark garments: clean the lint filter, separate lint-shedding from lint-attracting fabrics, and check the dryer.

  • Iron not steaming: descale the boiler, check the water type recommended by the maker, and clean the soleplate with a suitable agent.

  • Preventive maintenance schedule: daily filter clean, weekly drum and detergent drawer clean, monthly descaling check, annual service.

  • Electrical faults must be handled by a qualified technician; never bypass an earth connection or a safety interlock.

Quick reference

Customer Service and Claims

  • Intake inspection must record existing damage, missing buttons, faded areas and previous repairs, with the customer's signature.

  • Explain realistically what can and cannot be removed; never promise a result that the fibre or stain class makes unlikely.

  • A claim is assessed against the order slip, the care label and the treatment record, not against the customer's recollection alone.

  • Offer a clear remedy ladder: re-clean, repair, replacement or compensation, and state the time frame.

  • Keep damaged garments until the claim is settled; disposal without consent weakens the business position.

  • Complaint response time matters more than the size of the compensation for repeat custom.

  • Train counter staff to identify fibre and label symbols at intake; most disputes begin with a wrong promise at the counter.

Quick reference

Water, Effluent and Sustainability

  • A typical laundry uses 10-20 litres of water per kilogram of work; low-liquor machines reduce this substantially.

  • Water hardness above 180 mg/L CaCO3 requires softening to prevent scum, grey whites and excess detergent use.

  • Wastewater from dyeing carries unfixed dye, salt and alkali; pH must be neutralised before discharge.

  • Heat recovery from hot effluent and from dryer exhaust reduces energy cost per kilogram.

  • Cold-water detergents and enzymes reduce energy use but need longer cycle time to match hot-wash results.

  • Dosing accuracy prevents both under-washing and chemical waste; automatic dosing is more consistent than manual scoops.

  • Reuse of rinse water for the pre-wash stage is a common low-cost water-saving measure.

Quick reference

Textile Testing and Quality Control

  • Dimensional stability: measure length and width before and after a standard wash; shrinkage above the label allowance is a fault.

  • Colour fastness to washing is rated 1-5 for colour change and for staining of adjacent multifibre strip.

  • Rubbing fastness (wet and dry) uses a crockmeter; wet rubbing fastness is usually lower than dry.

  • Light fastness is rated 1-8 on the blue wool scale, where 8 is best; azo dyes vary widely.

  • pH of the aqueous extract of a garment should be near neutral (about 4.0-7.5) to avoid skin irritation.

  • Pilling is assessed on a 1-5 photographic scale after abrasion; synthetic blends pill more than long-staple natural fibres.

  • Incoming inspection of contract work should sample at least 10 % of garments against the order specification.

Quick reference

Ironing and Finishing Defects

  • Shine on wool or dark synthetics comes from too much pressure or direct heat; use a pressing cloth and steam.

  • Glazing (a permanent lustrous mark) occurs above the fibre's safe temperature and cannot be reversed.

  • Scorch marks are brown or yellow discolouration from excessive heat; light scorch may be removed by gentle bleaching, heavy scorch is permanent.

  • Double creases come from careless folding under the iron; press flat, lift and reposition rather than dragging.

  • Water spots on silk come from droplets; steam evenly and dry the whole area to avoid rings.

  • Iron marks on thermoplastic fibres (acetate, polyester) are melted fibre and are irreversible.

  • Correct pressing sequence: seams and inside first, then face side, then folds; cool before folding to set the crease.

Quick reference

Specialist Garments and Delicate Items

  • Beaded and sequinned garments are cleaned by hand or specialist dry cleaning, padded to protect the embellishment, and never tumble dried.

  • Leather and suede require specialist cleaning; water causes hardening and colour loss, so only the recommended solvent is used.

  • Embroidered and lace items are washed in a mesh bag on a gentle cycle, or hand washed, and dried flat.

  • Down-filled items need a low-heat tumble dry with dryer balls to redistribute the filling and prevent clumping.

  • Wedding dresses are inspected for sugar, wine and perspiration stains, treated before storage, and packed in acid-free tissue.

  • Woollen sweaters are washed in cool water with wool detergent, spun lightly, reshaped and dried flat.

  • Waterproof and coated fabrics lose their finish with normal detergent and heat; use a technical-fabric wash and air dry.

Quick reference

Costing and Productivity in the Workshop

  • Cost per kilogram = (chemicals + utilities + labour + depreciation + overhead) / kilograms processed in the period.

  • Productivity is measured as kilograms per operator-hour; layout and batch size affect it more than individual speed.

  • Utility cost is usually dominated by heating water and running dryers; lowering wash temperature saves the most energy.

  • Chemical cost per kilogram is small compared with labour and utilities in most laundries, so under-dosing to save money is a false economy.

  • Machine utilisation below about 60 % means fixed costs per kilogram rise sharply.

  • Re-work (re-cleaning a failed item) roughly doubles the cost of that item and should be tracked as a quality indicator.

  • Break-even analysis should be recalculated whenever detergent prices, electricity tariffs or wages change.