Drafting for a client whose measurements cross three sizes
A client orders a fitted cotton blouse. Her measurements are bust 94 cm, waist 82 cm, hip 99 cm, shoulder width 38 cm, back length 38 cm and sleeve length 52 cm. The readymade pattern block is available in three sizes: size 12 (bust 92, waist 74, hip 96, shoulder 39), size 14 (bust 96, waist 78, hip 100, shoulder 40) and size 16 (bust 100, waist 82, hip 104, shoulder 41). The block includes 1 cm seam allowance and 2 cm hem allowance. The client wants 4 cm bust ease and 2 cm waist ease, and a fitted back. The tailor cuts size 16 because the waist measurement matches exactly, then finds during the toile fitting that the shoulders slip off, the bust is loose and diagonal drag lines run from the side seam towards the bust point. The client has a short back and a slightly forward shoulder. The tailor has only one metre of test calico and one week before delivery.
1. Was cutting size 16 the right starting point? Using the measurements and ease, recommend a base size and list the main alterations with approximate amounts.
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Cutting size 16 was not the best starting point. The waist measurement alone is a poor base-size selector because the upper bodice, shoulder and bust are harder to alter than the waist. Required finished measurements are bust 94 + 4 = 98 cm, waist 82 + 2 = 84 cm and hip 99 + 4 = 103 cm. Compare the blocks: size 14 gives bust 96 (2 cm less than required), waist 78 (6 cm less) and hip 100 (3 cm less), with shoulder 40 (2 cm too wide). Size 16 gives bust 100 (2 cm more), waist 82 (2 cm less) and hip 104 (1 cm more), with shoulder 41 (3 cm too wide). Size 14 is the better base because the bust and hip are closer and the shoulder needs less correction; the waist can be let out. Use size 14 and alter: add 2 cm total at the bust (about 0.5 cm to each of the four bodice side-seam edges), add 6 cm total at the waist (about 1.5 cm to each side-seam edge), add 3 cm total at the hip (about 0.75 cm per side-seam edge), narrow each shoulder by about 1 cm, shorten the back above the waist by about 1–1.5 cm, and shift the shoulder seam forward by about 0.5–1 cm. True the side seams after grading.
2. Explain the cause of the diagonal drag lines and shoulder slip, and state the order in which the alterations should be made in the toile.
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The diagonal drag lines running from the side seam towards the bust point are a fit signal, not a sewing fault. They usually mean the bodice is tight across the bust or the bust dart is misplaced, so the fabric is pulled along the shortest path to the bust point. In this case the size 16 bust is loose overall, but the shoulder and upper chest are too wide and the dart may sit too low, so the fabric still drags. The shoulder slip is explained by the 3 cm excess shoulder width and the forward shoulder: the shoulder seam is not sitting on the shoulder ridge. Alter in a logical order because changes interact. First correct the shoulder line and back length: narrow the shoulder, move the shoulder seam forward and shorten the back. Then adjust the bust: reposition the dart point and take in or let out the side seam as needed. Then adjust waist and hip, and finally check the sleeve after the armhole has been trued. Retoile after the shoulder and bust changes before cutting the fashion fabric. Do not fix the drag lines by simply adding more ease at the side seam; that can leave a hollow at the bust and make the blouse look sack-like.
3. How should the tailor transfer the fitted toile changes to the paper pattern and keep the design's seam allowances correct?
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Mark the toile clearly before taking it apart: centre front, centre back, waistline, bust point, shoulder seam, side seams, grain line and any notches. Use a different colour pen for each change. Place the toile on a new sheet of pattern paper and trace the altered seam lines, but do not trace the sewing line as if it were the cutting line. True the seams: walk the front and back side seams together, walk the shoulder seams, and check that the armhole and sleeve cap lengths still match with the intended ease. Keep centre front and centre back straight and preserve the grain line. Add 1 cm seam allowance and 2 cm hem allowance as in the original block, and mark the seam allowance clearly. Make a fresh test garment from the revised pattern using the remaining calico; check that the drag lines and shoulder slip are gone and that the client can move comfortably. Only then cut the fashion fabric. Keep the revised block labelled with the client's measurements and date so the change is reproducible.