WBBSE Madhyamik Vocational Apparel flashcards
WBBSE Madhyamik Vocational Apparel · Build recall with a focused review session.
32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Apparel value chain
- The sequence from fibre to yarn to fabric to garment to retail. Each stage adds value, and garment production is the most labour-intensive stage, creating large-scale employment.
- Organised vs unorganised apparel units
- Organised units are registered factories with structured production and export links; unorganised units are small tailoring shops and job-work units with informal employment and simpler equipment.
- Cellulose fibre
- A fibre made of plant cellulose, such as cotton, jute, flax and viscose. Cellulose fibres generally absorb moisture well, burn like paper, and are damaged by strong acids.
- Protein fibre
- A fibre made of animal protein, such as silk and wool. Protein fibres burn with a smell of burnt hair, are damaged by strong alkali, and need mild soaps for washing.
- Staple versus filament
- Staple fibres are short and must be twisted into yarn, giving softness and absorbency. Filament fibres are continuous, giving smoothness, strength and low pilling.
- Cotton count (Ne)
- An indirect yarn numbering system. Higher Ne means a finer yarn, so 60s cotton is finer than 20s cotton. It is used mainly for spun cotton and blended yarns.
- Plain weave
- The simplest weave with warp and weft interlacing one over one under. It is firm and strong, gives a flat surface, and is used in poplin, calico and sheeting.
- Twill weave
- A weave producing diagonal lines on the fabric surface because interlacing points shift by one or more threads each row. Denim and gabardine are twill fabrics.
- Satin weave
- A weave with long floats that produce high lustre and a smooth surface. Float threads snag easily, so satin is less durable than plain or twill weaves.
- Basic block (sloper)
- A close-fitting pattern with no design ease and no seam allowance, made from body measurements. It is the starting point for flat pattern manipulation into styles.
- Wearing ease
- The extra measurement added beyond body size so the wearer can move, breathe and sit comfortably. It is separate from design ease, which creates the style silhouette.
- Dart manipulation
- Moving the fullness of a dart from one position to another on a pattern while keeping the same total intake. Fit and garment shape remain unchanged; only the dart location differs.
- Grain line
- A line marked on the pattern parallel to the fabric's lengthwise grain or centre front. Cutting off-grain makes the garment twist and hang poorly.
- Seam allowance
- The extra fabric kept beyond the stitching line to join pieces. A common allowance is 1 cm on seams and 1.5 to 2 cm on hems.
- French seam
- A seam where the raw edges are enclosed inside a folded seam, giving a neat finish with no exposed edges. It suits sheer and lightweight fabrics.
- Flat-felled seam
- A strong seam where both raw edges are folded inside and stitched down, visible as a double row of stitching. It is common on denim and workwear.
- Lockstitch (type 301)
- The most common sewing machine stitch, formed by upper and lower threads interlocking inside the fabric. It is strong, non-stretchy and used on woven garment seams.
- Overlock stitch (type 504)
- A stitch that wraps thread around the fabric edge while joining it, preventing fraying and allowing stretch. It is used for knit garment seaming and edge neatening.
- Stitches per inch (SPI)
- The number of stitches in one inch of seam, set by stitch length. Woven garment seams usually use 10 to 12 SPI; finer fabrics use more.
- Balanced tension
- The condition where upper and bobbin threads lock inside the fabric layers, showing no loops on either side. Thread nests or loops indicate incorrect threading or tension.
- Needle size selection
- Needle size is matched to fabric weight. Fine needles (9 to 11) suit light fabrics, size 14 suits shirting, and sizes 16 to 18 suit denim and canvas.
- Feed dog
- The toothed part below the presser foot that moves fabric forward during stitching. Lowering it allows free-motion work and buttonholing.
- Tailor's chalk
- A marking tool used to transfer pattern lines to fabric. It brushes off easily, so marks must be removed before final pressing and packing.
- Tailor's ham
- A firmly stuffed curved cushion used under curved seams such as shoulders and bust darts during pressing. It preserves the curved shape instead of flattening it.
- Satin stitch
- A hand embroidery filling stitch made of parallel stitches worked closely across a shape. An outline is stitched first to keep edges sharp.
- Chain stitch
- An embroidery stitch forming linked loops along a line, worked from the front with the working thread held below the needle. It is also used in machine embroidery.
- Appliqué
- A decoration method where a cut fabric shape is placed on a base fabric and stitched around the edge. Reverse appliqué cuts the top layer to reveal fabric beneath.
- AQL sampling
- Acceptable Quality Level is a sampling plan that inspects a defined sample from a lot and accepts or rejects the lot against a specified defect limit.
- Critical defect
- A defect that creates a safety or legal risk, such as a broken needle left in a garment. Critical defects usually cause rejection of the whole lot.
- Break-even quantity
- The number of units where total revenue equals total cost, calculated as fixed cost divided by selling price per unit minus variable cost per unit.
- Markup versus margin
- Markup is profit calculated as a percentage of cost; margin is profit calculated as a percentage of selling price. The same rupee profit gives different percentages.
- FOB pricing
- Free On Board pricing includes the cost of goods and delivery to the named port or carrier. The buyer pays freight and insurance after that point.