Pattern Making and Drafting
This domain tests measurement taking, ease, block drafting, dart manipulation and pattern markings.
Measurements and ease
Measure over light clothing with the tape snug but not tight: bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder, back length, sleeve length, inseam. Ease makes a garment wearable - wearing ease for movement plus design ease for style. Basic blocks (bodice, skirt, sleeve) are drafted to the wearer’s measurements or a standard size chart, then adapted.
Drafting rules
- Work in one consistent unit; mark centre front/back, grainline, notches, fold lines and seam allowance (about 1 cm, 1.5 cm at the waist, 2–3 cm at the hem).
- Darts shape fabric to the body; move them by slash-and-spread or pivot without changing fit.
- True seams and walk patterns to check that matching edges are equal; make a muslin/toile for fit.
- Grading scales a block by size rules, not by eye.
Worked example
Bust 88 cm, wearing ease 8 cm, design ease 0 cm. Half-bust = 96 ÷ 2 = 48 cm; quarter-bust for the front bodice = 24 cm. If the front is drafted 24 cm plus 1 cm seam allowance at the side seam, the piece is 25 cm wide at the bust line. Always state which allowances are included.
Traps
- Measuring over a thick sweater.
- Adding seam allowance twice - once on the block and again at cutting.
- Ignoring grainline when placing darts, so the garment twists.
- Drafting without checking front and back side-seam lengths.