Surface Ornamentation and Embroidery
This domain tests hand and machine embroidery stitches, surface techniques, design placement and finishing of embellished fabric.
Hand stitches
Running (kantha, gathering), back stitch (strong lines), stem (outlines), chain (loops), satin (packed fills), blanket (edges and appliqué), lazy daisy (petals), French knot (centres) and cross stitch (counted work). Machine embroidery uses free-motion or computerised designs; digitising controls stitch order and density.
Surface techniques
Appliqué (stitching a shape onto ground fabric), patchwork (piecing), quilting (stitching layers), mirror work, zardosi, tie-dye and batik (resist dyeing) and block printing. Design needs balance, rhythm, scale, colour harmony and repeat; place motifs where they flatter the body.
Worked example
A cushion cover in the Bengal kantha tradition: choose light cotton, draw a border and central motif, and work running stitch in rows 3–4 mm apart with even spacing, starting and ending threads under the motif. The running stitch both decorates and quilts. Keep the thread short to avoid knotting.
Traps
- Working without backing or stabiliser, causing puckering.
- Using too-long thread, which twists and knots.
- Satin stitch too loose (gaps) or too tight (cupped fabric).
- Skipping pre-shrinking, so the embroidery distorts after washing.