Beauty Therapy cheat sheet
Beauty Therapy · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Professional Standards, Ethics, and Legislation
Scope of practice: beauty therapists perform cosmetic treatments only; diagnosing skin disease, prescribing medication, or treating medical conditions is outside the role and must be referred to a healthcare professional.
Informed consent requires the client to receive the treatment type, expected outcome, risks, alternatives, and aftercare in writing, and to sign and date before treatment begins.
Contraindications must be recorded and acted on: active infection, herpes simplex, open wounds, recent isotretinoin use, pregnancy (for certain treatments), and known allergies are common absolute or relative contraindications.
Data protection: client records are confidential; disclose only with client consent or where required by law, and store records securely for the retention period set by local regulation.
Insurance: professional indemnity cover is required; treatments outside the policy schedule (e.g., advanced electrical or laser treatments) are not covered.
Consumer protection law requires accurate advertising, clear pricing, and a complaints procedure; misleading claims about results or qualifications are unlawful.
Professional codes of conduct typically require honesty, respect for client autonomy, non-discrimination, and maintaining competence through continuing professional development.
Record keeping: contemporaneous, legible notes including products used, batch numbers, settings, consent, and any adverse reactions are the therapist's legal defence.
Health, Safety, and Infection Control
Hand hygiene is the single most effective infection control measure: wash with soap and water or use alcohol-based hand rub before and after every client and after removing gloves.
Chain of infection: infectious agent → reservoir → portal of exit → mode of transmission → portal of entry → susceptible host; break any link to prevent transmission.
Decontamination hierarchy: cleaning removes organic matter; disinfection kills most pathogens but not necessarily spores; sterilisation destroys all microorganisms including spores.
Single-use items (needles, orange sticks, disposable files, gloves) must never be reused; reusable tools must be cleaned then disinfected or sterilised between clients.
PPE: disposable gloves for contact with blood/body fluids, apron or uniform, and eye protection where splashing is possible; gloves do not replace hand washing.
Sharps: never recap by hand; dispose immediately in a sharps container, and manage spillages with a spill kit following the local blood-borne virus protocol.
Electrical safety: portable appliance testing (PAT) at intervals, visual checks before use, and no equipment with damaged cords or plugs; keep liquids away from electrical sockets.
Fire and emergency: know evacuation routes, extinguisher locations, and accident reporting procedures; record all incidents in the accident book.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin and Hair
Epidermis layers (deep to superficial): stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms/soles only), corneum; keratinocytes migrate upward over about 28 days in young adults.
Dermis contains collagen (strength), elastin (recoil), glycosaminoglycans (hydration), fibroblasts, blood vessels, nerve endings, and hair follicles with sebaceous glands.
Hypodermis (subcutaneous layer) consists of adipose tissue and fascia; it insulates, cushions, and stores energy.
Skin functions: protection, thermoregulation, sensation, excretion, secretion, vitamin D synthesis, and absorption (limited by the stratum corneum barrier).
Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin via tyrosinase; melanin transfers to keratinocytes in melanosomes and determines skin colour and UV protection.
Hair follicle cycle: anagen (growth, 2–7 years), catagen (transition, weeks), telogen (rest, months), then exogen (shedding); the hair shaft has medulla, cortex, and cuticle.
Glands: eccrine sweat glands open directly onto skin (thermoregulation); apocrine glands open into hair follicles in axillae and groin; sebaceous glands secrete sebum into follicles.
Skin ageing: intrinsic ageing thins the epidermis and reduces collagen; extrinsic ageing (UV) causes photoageing with elastosis, pigmentation, and wrinkle formation.
Client Consultation, Skin Analysis, and Treatment Planning
Consultation sequence: greet and establish rapport, obtain medical and lifestyle history, identify contraindications, analyse skin, agree treatment plan and consent, then treat and record.
Skin typing: Fitzpatrick scale I–VI estimates UV sensitivity and informs laser/IPL and peel suitability; higher types carry greater risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Skin analysis uses observation (with magnification lamp), palpation, and questioning to assess oiliness, hydration, sensitivity, pore size, vascularity, pigmentation, and laxity.
Lesion recognition: use the ABCDE rule (Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Colour variation, Diameter >6 mm, Evolving) and refer any suspicious lesion rather than treating.
Treatment plan must state goals, products, technique, frequency, home-care recommendations, and review date, and must be agreed with the client.
Patch testing is required for products with potential sensitisers (e.g., tinting, peels, lash adhesive) 24–48 hours before first use; record the result.
Skin Care and Facial Treatments
Facial routine order: cleanse, exfoliate (1–3 times weekly), tone, treat (serum), moisturise, protect (SPF in daytime).
Cleansers: oil-based for makeup removal, foaming/gel for oily skin, cream for dry or sensitive skin; avoid harsh soaps that raise skin pH.
Exfoliation: mechanical (scrubs, brushes) and chemical (AHA/glycolic, lactic; BHA/salicylic); AHAs are water-soluble and affect the surface, BHA is oil-soluble and penetrates pores.
Masks: clay (oil absorption), gel (hydration/cooling), cream (nourishing), sheet (hydration); leave-on times must follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction (circular pressure); always work in the direction of lymph drainage and avoid contraindicated areas.
Electrical facial treatments (e.g., galvanic, high-frequency, microcurrent) have specific indications and contraindications; never use on clients with pacemakers, epilepsy, or metal implants unless cleared.
Hair Removal Techniques
Hair growth phases: only anagen hairs are effectively removed by laser/IPL; telogen hairs require repeat sessions, so multiple treatments are spaced according to the growth cycle.
Waxing: warm wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it; hot wax is applied against growth and removed against growth, and is preferred for coarse or sensitive-area hair.
Contraindications to waxing: isotretinoin use (within 6–12 months), recent chemical peel or laser, active skin infection, varicose veins, sunburn, and anticoagulant therapy (relative).
Threading uses twisted cotton thread to trap and remove hair; it is suitable for sensitive skin and shaping brows, but requires good hygiene and technique.
Depilatory creams break disulfide bonds in keratin; a patch test is essential, and the product must not be left on longer than the manufacturer's stated time.
Laser/IPL: assess skin type, avoid tanned skin, use eye protection, and record settings; paradoxical hypertrichosis and burns are risks, especially in darker skin types.
Aftercare: soothe with aloe or post-wax lotion, advise no heat, sun, or tight clothing for 24 hours, and advise exfoliation after 48 hours to prevent ingrown hairs.
Manicure, Pedicure, and Nail Services
Nail anatomy: nail plate (keratin), nail bed, matrix (growth area), cuticle (eponychium), lunula (visible matrix), and hyponychium (seal under free edge).
Nail plate grows about 3 mm per month on average; toenails grow more slowly (about 1 mm per month).
Contraindications: paronychia, onychomycosis, psoriasis of the nail, open cuts, and infected cuticles must be referred; do not treat over infection.
Pedicure sequence: soak, cleanse, exfoliate, cuticle care (push back, never cut living tissue unless trained), file, massage, polish; use single-use files and sterilised nippers.
Nail shapes: square, squoval, oval, almond, stiletto, coffin; shape must suit the client's lifestyle and nail strength.
Gel and acrylic enhancements require proper preparation, bonding, and curing; over-filing the natural nail plate causes thinning and damage.
Tool hygiene: metal implements must be cleaned, disinfected, and sterilised between clients; porous items (files, buffers, orange sticks) are single-use.
Lash and Brow Services
Lash growth cycle: anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), telogen (rest); lashes shed naturally, so lash extensions need infills every 2–3 weeks.
Lash extension adhesives contain cyanoacrylate; a patch test 24–48 hours before first application is standard, and clients with known adhesive allergy must not be treated.
Brow shaping: measure brow start at the inner corner, arch at the outer edge of the iris, and tail at the outer corner of the eye; balance both sides.
Tinting: patch test before first use; avoid tinting if the client has had a reaction, has conjunctivitis, or is pregnant (relative contraindication).
Lash lift/perming uses a reducing agent to break disulfide bonds and a neutraliser to reform them; over-processing causes frizzling and breakage.
Aftercare for lash extensions: avoid water, steam, and oil-based products for 24–48 hours; cleanse with a lash-safe foam cleanser.
Makeup Application and Colour Theory
Colour theory: primary colours (red, yellow, blue), secondary (orange, green, violet), and complementary pairs (red–green, yellow–violet, blue–orange) neutralise each other.
Undertone correction: green neutralises redness, peach/orange corrects blue/purple (dark circles), yellow corrects purple, and lavender corrects sallow tones.
Foundation selection: match to the jawline/neck in natural light; undertone (cool, warm, neutral) matters more than depth alone.
Face shapes and contouring: highlight raises, contour recedes; oval is the reference shape, and techniques adjust proportion for round, square, heart, and long faces.
Eyeshadow placement: light shades on the lid and brow bone, mid-tone in the crease, dark at the outer corner; blending direction follows the eye shape.
Hygiene: never double-dip mascara or share applicators; sharpen pencils between clients and sanitise palettes with alcohol spray.
Body Treatments and Massage Techniques
Massage strokes: effleurage (gliding, warming), petrissage (kneading, deeper), tapotement (percussion, stimulating), friction (circular, deep), and vibration.
Contraindications to massage: fever, acute infection, thrombosis, uncontrolled hypertension, recent surgery, fractures, and pregnancy (certain areas and techniques).
Body wraps: detox/hydrating (clay, algae, mud) and thermal (heat) or cooling; monitor client comfort and never leave unattended for long periods.
Exfoliation before body treatments improves product absorption; use gentle scrubs and avoid broken skin.
Lymphatic drainage uses light, rhythmic strokes toward lymph nodes to reduce oedema; it is not a substitute for medical treatment.
Client comfort: maintain privacy, use appropriate draping, warm the room, and check pressure and temperature throughout.
Product Knowledge and Cosmetic Chemistry
Emulsion types: oil-in-water (O/W) is lighter and non-greasy; water-in-oil (W/O) is richer and more occlusive; emulsifiers stabilise the mixture.
Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) attract water; emollients (oils, esters) soften and smooth; occlusives (petrolatum, silicones) reduce water loss.
Actives: retinoids (cell turnover, photosensitivity risk), vitamin C (antioxidant, unstable), niacinamide (barrier, sebum), AHAs/BHAs (exfoliation), and peptides (signalling).
pH matters: AHAs work best at low pH (3–4); skin-friendly products are typically pH 4.5–5.5; high pH soaps disrupt the acid mantle.
Preservatives prevent microbial growth; parabens, phenoxyethanol, and benzyl alcohol are common; products must be stored per manufacturer instructions and used within PAO (period after opening).
Allergens and sensitisers: fragrances, essential oils, and some preservatives; patch testing and ingredient awareness reduce adverse reactions.
Sunscreen: SPF measures UVB protection; broad-spectrum labels indicate UVA cover; reapply every 2 hours and after swimming or sweating.