Makeup Application and Colour Theory
Makeup Application and Colour Theory
This domain tests colour theory, undertone identification, foundation matching, correction and concealing, hygiene and adapting looks to lighting and skin condition.
Colour theory basics
Primary colours (red, yellow, blue) mix to secondaries (orange, green, violet). Colours opposite each other on the wheel are complementary and neutralise one another.
Correction map
- Green neutralises redness - rosacea, blemishes, broken capillaries.
- Peach or salmon neutralises blue and purple - dark circles on light to medium skin.
- Orange corrects deep blue-purple circles on deeper skin tones.
- Yellow brightens purple and blue bruising and dullness.
- Lavender counteracts sallow, yellow-toned dullness.
Undertone and matching
Undertones are warm (golden), cool (pink-blue) or neutral. Match foundation on the jawline in natural daylight (around 5000–6500 K), testing two or three shades and allowing for oxidisation. Never match on the hand or under tungsten light.
Hygiene
Sharpen pencils, sanitise palettes, use disposable mascara wands, decant with a spatula and never double-dip. Replace mascara every three months.
Worked example
A client with rosacea and visible texture wants a dewy, shimmering finish. You apply a green-correcting primer only on the redness, a yellow-based foundation matched at the jaw, a matte or satin finish over textured areas, cream blush on the cheeks and no highlighter over the bumps - shimmer highlights texture rather than hiding it.
Traps that cost marks
Matching foundation on the hand; over-applying corrector so it shows through; ignoring the lighting the client will be seen in; using dirty brushes; promising that makeup will "cure" a skin condition.