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Flaking Scalp Six Weeks After a Relaxer

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Flaking Scalp Six Weeks After a Relaxer

At 4:10 p.m. on a Friday, a 34-year-old walk-in client asks for “the strongest anti-dandruff shampoo you have.” She has visible white flakes on her shoulders and has been scratching her hairline. Her last relaxer was six weeks ago at another salon. Examination shows dry, flaky scalp along the frontal hairline and two small healing scabs near the temples; the scalp is not weeping or spreading, and she has no fever. She wants shampoo, deep conditioning and a blow-dry today because she sings at a church event in three days. The salon stocks ketoconazole 2% medicated shampoo, a sulphate-free moisturising shampoo, a menthol scalp tonic, and a heavy reconstruction mask. The client mentions that she may be pregnant but has not tested. She has never had a medicated shampoo at this salon and does not know her scalp type.

1. Would you sell or use the ketoconazole 2% shampoo and menthol tonic today? Explain your decision and the questions you would ask first.

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I would not treat this as a simple dandruff sale. The visible flakes suggest a scalp condition, but the two healing scabs mean the skin barrier is broken. Applying a menthol tonic to broken skin risks stinging and further irritation, and a strong medicated shampoo is not a diagnosis. Because the client may be pregnant, I would not recommend a pharmacy-strength antifungal without confirming with her pharmacist or doctor; pregnancy is a reason to be cautious, not a reason to diagnose. I would ask when the flaking started, whether it worsens after relaxer touch-ups, whether she has used medicated shampoo before, what products she uses at home, whether the scabs bleed or spread, and whether she has seen a doctor. If the scalp were weeping, spreading, painful or accompanied by fever, I would refer immediately. Today I would use the sulphate-free moisturising shampoo, avoid the menthol tonic and the heavy mask on the scalp, and explain that the flakes may be irritation, product build-up or a fungal condition that needs medical assessment if they persist.

2. Design the shampoo, conditioning and blow-dry service you would perform today. Justify each choice.

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I would begin with a patch test behind the ear for the shampoo, even though shampoo is a rinse-off product, because the client reports sensitivity and has not used this salon’s products. I would detangle gently with a wide-tooth comb before wetting, using conditioner on the mid-lengths and ends rather than pulling through the scalp. Water would be lukewarm, not hot, because heat increases itching. I would shampoo once with the sulphate-free moisturising shampoo, using fingertips rather than nails and avoiding the scabbed temples. I would not scrub or exfoliate the scalp. For conditioning, I would apply a light conditioner from mid-length to ends and keep the heavy reconstruction mask away from the scalp; the mask is designed for damaged hair, not for flaking skin, and overloading the scalp could worsen build-up. I would rinse thoroughly and towel-dry by blotting. For the blow-dry, I would use low heat and low speed, keep the nozzle moving, and avoid pulling at the hairline. The goal is a clean, comfortable finish for her church event, not an aggressive treatment of a condition I cannot diagnose.

3. What aftercare and referral advice would you give, and how would you record it?

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I would tell the client to stop scratching, avoid tight headbands and tight braids at the hairline, and wash with the sulphate-free shampoo no more than two or three times a week until the scabs heal. She should not apply the menthol tonic or any strong medicated product to broken skin. If the flakes persist beyond two weeks, spread, itch intensely at night, or the scabs enlarge, she should see a dermatologist or pharmacist; if she is pregnant or trying to conceive, she should mention that before using any medicated shampoo. I would advise her not to book a relaxer touch-up until the scalp is fully healed, because a relaxer on irritated skin can cause burns and further breakage. In the client record I would note the visible flakes and scabs, the products used, the products avoided and why, the pregnancy uncertainty, the referral advice, and that she was told to return if symptoms worsen. I would also note that no diagnosis was made. This protects her and gives the next stylist a clear baseline.