Hair Cutting and Styling
Domain focus
Hair Cutting and Styling tests precision and structure: sectioning, elevation, distribution, guide lines and finishing. The exam rewards a clear plan and cross-checking, not just a finished look.
Core rules
- Divide the head into four or more controlled sections before cutting; clip unwieldy hair out of the way.
- Elevation controls graduation: 0° for a solid line, 45° for a graduated build-up, 90° for uniform layers, 180° for long layers.
- Distribution is natural fall or shifted; shifted distribution adds length or weight where you project it.
- Use a stationary guide for a fixed line, a travelling guide to follow the head shape, and a mobile guide for free-form work.
- Cut with the scissors parallel to the section for a blunt line; angle for texture; check tension - wet hair stretches, so do not over-tension.
- Cross-check by taking opposite sections and comparing length and balance.
- For blow-drying: rough-dry to about 80%, section, direct the nozzle down the hair shaft, use a cool shot to set, and apply thermal protection before irons.
- Match the finished shape to head shape, growth pattern, lifestyle and face shape.
Worked example
For a graduated bob, take a stationary guide at the nape, cut the first section to the agreed length, then bring subsequent sections to that guide at 45° elevation, working upward and cross-checking both sides. Raising elevation too early removes the weight line at the perimeter.
Traps
Cutting wet hair shorter than intended; forgetting to cross-check; using clippers without a guard; ignoring a cowlick or double crown.