Esthetician study materials
Esthetician study resources

Esthetician (South Korea National Technical Qualifications in Barbering and Beauty) cheat sheet

Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.

Quick reference

Safety, Sanitation and Infection Control

  • Disinfection destroys most pathogenic microorganisms on nonporous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life, including spores, and is not achieved by esthetic disinfectants.

  • An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant must be used at the label's dilution and contact time; implements must be fully immersed and have all residue removed before immersion.

  • Handwashing requires soap and water for at least 20 seconds; it is performed before and after each client, after glove removal, and after contact with blood or body fluids.

  • Gloves are changed between clients and whenever torn or contaminated; gloves do not replace handwashing.

  • Single-use items are discarded after one client: wooden spatulas, cotton, wax strips, lancets, disposable mascara wands, and needle cartridges.

  • Porous implements that cannot be cleaned and disinfected, such as natural-bristle brushes or foam buffers, are not reused on another client.

  • A blood exposure stops the service; wear gloves, contain contaminated waste in a biohazard bag, disinfect the area with an EPA-registered product, and follow the facility exposure-control plan.

  • Electrical equipment is kept away from water, cords are inspected for damage, and equipment is unplugged by the plug rather than the cord.

Quick reference

Skin Science

  • Epidermis layers from deepest to surface: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms and soles), and corneum.

  • Keratinocytes are formed in the basale and move upward; normal turnover is about 28 days and slows with age.

  • The stratum corneum barrier depends on corneocytes and intercellular lipids, especially ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids.

  • Melanocytes in the basale produce eumelanin (brown-black) and pheomelanin (red-yellow) and transfer melanin to keratinocytes.

  • The dermis contains collagen for strength, elastin for recoil, and glycosaminoglycans for hydration; fibroblasts produce collagen and elastin.

  • The acid mantle has a pH of about 4.5 to 5.5 and is formed by sebum, sweat, and cellular debris.

  • UVA penetrates deeper and contributes to photoaging; UVB is primarily responsible for sunburn and DNA damage.

  • SPF primarily measures UVB protection; broad-spectrum labeling indicates measurable UVA protection as well.

Quick reference

Anatomy and Physiology

  • Facial bones include the frontal, zygomatic, maxilla, mandible, nasal, lacrimal, palatine, vomer, and inferior nasal conchae.

  • Muscles of facial expression include frontalis, orbicularis oculi, orbicularis oris, zygomaticus, buccinator, and platysma.

  • Muscles of mastication include the masseter, temporalis, medial pterygoid, and lateral pterygoid.

  • Cranial nerve V (trigeminal) supplies sensation to the face; cranial nerve VII (facial) supplies motor control to facial expression muscles.

  • The facial artery and superficial temporal artery are major blood supplies to the face; the facial vein drains toward the jugular system.

  • Major lymph node groups of the head and neck include preauricular, parotid, submandibular, submental, and cervical nodes.

  • The integumentary system includes skin, hair, nails, and glands; it protects, regulates temperature, and synthesizes vitamin D.

  • Androgens increase sebum production, while estrogen influences skin thickness and hydration.

Quick reference

Skin Analysis and Client Consultation

  • A consultation records health history, medications, allergies, prior esthetic or medical treatments, lifestyle, and treatment expectations.

  • Informed consent is documented before service and includes benefits, risks, alternatives, and the client's right to stop.

  • Wood's lamp findings: normal skin blue-white; dehydration light violet; sun damage yellow-brown; some bacterial fluorescence yellow-green.

  • The Fitzpatrick scale classifies skin I-VI by burning and tanning response and guides UV protection and treatment intensity.

  • Skin type is genetically based oil/water balance; skin condition is a temporary or treatable state such as dehydration, acne, or sensitivity.

  • A patch test is applied 24 to 48 hours before a new product, tint, adhesive, or peel when allergy risk exists.

  • Isotretinoin use, recent retinoid or acid peels, pregnancy, photosensitivity, and active infection are common treatment contraindications requiring deferral or medical clearance.

  • SOAP documentation stands for Subjective, Objective, Assessment, and Plan and supports consistent client records.

Quick reference

Facial Treatments and Massage

  • A basic facial sequence: consultation, cleansing, skin analysis, exfoliation, extractions if indicated, massage, mask, moisturizer, and sun protection.

  • Massage strokes include effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction, and vibration.

  • Facial massage generally moves upward and outward; pressure is avoided over the thyroid, carotid arteries, inflamed acne, and suspicious lesions.

  • Extractions are limited to visible comedones and pustules; cystic, inflamed, or undiagnosed lesions are referred.

  • Steam is held about 12 to 18 inches from the face for roughly 5 to 10 minutes; longer exposure can cause dehydration or burns.

  • Massage contraindications include fever, active infection, recent surgery, thrombosis, uncontrolled hypertension, and contagious skin conditions.

  • Draping and positioning protect client privacy and comfort; products and implements are sanitized between clients.

  • A mask is selected by skin condition: clay for oiliness, hydrating gel for dehydration, and calming formulas for sensitivity.

Quick reference

Hair Removal (Waxing and Depilation)

  • Hair growth cycles are anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting); waxing is most effective in anagen.

  • Epilation removes hair from the root (waxing, tweezing, electrolysis); depilation removes hair at the surface (shaving, depilatories).

  • Hair should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long for waxing; longer hair is trimmed before application.

  • Soft wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it with a strip; hard wax is applied thicker and removed without a strip.

  • Waxing is contraindicated over isotretinoin use, recent retinoid or acid peels, sunburn, open lesions, varicose veins, and compromised skin.

  • A patch test is performed 24 to 48 hours before waxing a new client or using a new wax formula.

  • Post-wax care avoids heat, friction, tight clothing, sun exposure, and exfoliation for 24 to 48 hours; sunscreen is used on exposed areas.

  • No double-dipping: a new spatula or wax strip is used each time, and gloves are worn.

Quick reference

Makeup

  • Foundation is matched on the jawline in natural light, comparing face and neck; the correct shade disappears without a line.

  • Color correction: green neutralizes redness; peach or orange neutralizes blue-purple; yellow neutralizes purple; lavender neutralizes yellow.

  • Face shapes include oval, round, square, heart, diamond, and oblong; contouring darkens recessive areas and highlighting brings forward.

  • Makeup order commonly: primer, foundation, concealer, powder, eye products, blush, lip color, and setting spray.

  • Mascara and liquid eye products are discarded about three months after opening or after an eye infection.

  • Brushes are cleaned with brush cleanser or mild soap, rinsed, and dried flat to prevent water from loosening the ferrule.

  • Pencils are sharpened before use; palettes are sanitized by scraping the surface and using a clean spatula or brush.

  • Makeup is not applied over open lesions, active infection, or undiagnosed irritation; disposable applicators prevent cross-contamination.

Quick reference

Lash and Brow Services

  • Lash extension application isolates one natural lash per extension; adhesive bonds only that lash to avoid traction and clumping.

  • Lash adhesive cure depends on temperature and humidity; high humidity can speed curing, while low humidity can slow it.

  • A lash lift uses a silicone shield and processing solution to curl natural lashes; water and steam are avoided for about 24 hours after service.

  • Lash and brow tint patch tests are performed 24 to 48 hours before service, even if the client has been tinted before.

  • Brow mapping uses three points: inner corner start, arch above the outer iris, and tail at the outer corner.

  • Eye infections, recent eye surgery, allergies to adhesive or tint, and uncontrolled eye conditions are contraindications for lash or brow services.

  • Disposable mascara wands, lash brushes, and adhesive nozzles are single-use; adhesive is dispensed fresh and not returned to the bottle.

  • Extension removal uses professional remover; pulling or picking extensions can damage natural lashes and irritate the eyelid.

Quick reference

Advanced Treatments: Exfoliation and Chemical Peels

  • Exfoliation is mechanical (scrubs, brushes, microdermabrasion) or chemical (AHAs, BHAs, enzymes).

  • AHAs include glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, and citric acids; they are water-soluble and work on the skin surface.

  • BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble, penetrates pores, and is contraindicated with aspirin allergy.

  • Peel strength depends on acid concentration, pH, contact time, and skin preparation; lower pH generally increases activity.

  • Superficial peels affect the epidermis; medium and deep peels reach the dermis and are medical procedures outside esthetic scope.

  • Peel contraindications include active infection, compromised barrier, recent isotretinoin, photosensitivity, pregnancy caution, and herpes history without prophylaxis.

  • Neutralization stops acid activity at the planned time; failure to neutralize can cause burns, blistering, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

  • Post-peel care includes sunscreen, gentle cleansing, and avoidance of exfoliants, heat, and picking until healed.

Quick reference

Equipment, Implements and Modalities

  • Magnifying lamps provide magnification and lighting for skin analysis; the lens and handle are disinfected between clients.

  • Wood's lamp uses UV light to reveal hydration, pigmentation, and some bacterial or fungal fluorescence.

  • Galvanic current uses direct current; desincrustation softens sebum and iontophoresis introduces water-soluble products.

  • High frequency produces ozone and is used for antibacterial and drying effects; contraindications include pacemakers and pregnancy.

  • Microdermabrasion mechanically exfoliates with crystals or a diamond tip; it is avoided on active acne, rosacea, and thin skin.

  • LED red light around 630 to 660 nm supports collagen and healing; blue light around 405 to 420 nm targets acne bacteria.

  • Ultrasound uses gel and sound waves; continuous mode heats tissue, while pulsed mode is nonthermal.

  • Electrical modalities require dry skin, intact cords, client screening for implants or pacemakers, and eye protection for light treatments.

Quick reference

Professional Practices

  • Scope of practice defines legally permitted services; estheticians do not diagnose disease, prescribe medication, or perform invasive procedures.

  • Refer clients with suspicious lesions, severe inflammation, eye infections, or systemic symptoms to a physician.

  • Informed consent, confidentiality, and accurate records are professional and legal obligations.

  • OSHA bloodborne pathogens rules require an exposure-control plan, training, and proper handling of contaminated waste.

  • State boards regulate licensing, sanitation, and scope; local rules may add requirements.

  • Professional boundaries include avoiding dual relationships, respecting privacy, and declining services outside competence.

  • Incident reports document injuries, reactions, or exposures factually and promptly.

  • Continuing education and liability insurance support current practice and risk management.

Quick reference

Business and Ethics

  • Break-even revenue equals fixed costs divided by contribution margin ratio; break-even units equal fixed costs divided by price minus variable cost per unit.

  • Service pricing must cover variable costs, fixed overhead, labor, and profit margin.

  • Retail markup is the difference between cost and selling price; gross margin is markup divided by selling price.

  • Before-and-after photos require written consent that states where images will appear and the client's right to withdraw.

  • A business plan includes market analysis, services, pricing, marketing, startup costs, and financial projections.

  • Independent contractor and employee classifications differ in tax withholding, scheduling control, and benefits; misclassification has legal consequences.

  • Client retention strategies include consistent service, follow-up, loyalty programs, and referral incentives.

  • Advertising must be truthful; guarantees of specific results and unverified claims create legal and ethical risk.