Esthetician (South Korea National Technical Qualifications in Barbering and Beauty) cheat sheet
Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Safety, Sanitation and Infection Control
Disinfection destroys most pathogenic microorganisms on nonporous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life, including spores, and is not achieved by esthetic disinfectants.
An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant must be used at the label's dilution and contact time; implements must be fully immersed and have all residue removed before immersion.
Handwashing requires soap and water for at least 20 seconds; it is performed before and after each client, after glove removal, and after contact with blood or body fluids.
Gloves are changed between clients and whenever torn or contaminated; gloves do not replace handwashing.
Single-use items are discarded after one client: wooden spatulas, cotton, wax strips, lancets, disposable mascara wands, and needle cartridges.
Porous implements that cannot be cleaned and disinfected, such as natural-bristle brushes or foam buffers, are not reused on another client.
A blood exposure stops the service; wear gloves, contain contaminated waste in a biohazard bag, disinfect the area with an EPA-registered product, and follow the facility exposure-control plan.
Electrical equipment is kept away from water, cords are inspected for damage, and equipment is unplugged by the plug rather than the cord.
Skin Science
Epidermis layers from deepest to surface: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms and soles), and corneum.
Keratinocytes are formed in the basale and move upward; normal turnover is about 28 days and slows with age.
The stratum corneum barrier depends on corneocytes and intercellular lipids, especially ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids.
Melanocytes in the basale produce eumelanin (brown-black) and pheomelanin (red-yellow) and transfer melanin to keratinocytes.
The dermis contains collagen for strength, elastin for recoil, and glycosaminoglycans for hydration; fibroblasts produce collagen and elastin.
The acid mantle has a pH of about 4.5 to 5.5 and is formed by sebum, sweat, and cellular debris.
UVA penetrates deeper and contributes to photoaging; UVB is primarily responsible for sunburn and DNA damage.
SPF primarily measures UVB protection; broad-spectrum labeling indicates measurable UVA protection as well.
Anatomy and Physiology
Facial bones include the frontal, zygomatic, maxilla, mandible, nasal, lacrimal, palatine, vomer, and inferior nasal conchae.
Muscles of facial expression include frontalis, orbicularis oculi, orbicularis oris, zygomaticus, buccinator, and platysma.
Muscles of mastication include the masseter, temporalis, medial pterygoid, and lateral pterygoid.
Cranial nerve V (trigeminal) supplies sensation to the face; cranial nerve VII (facial) supplies motor control to facial expression muscles.
The facial artery and superficial temporal artery are major blood supplies to the face; the facial vein drains toward the jugular system.
Major lymph node groups of the head and neck include preauricular, parotid, submandibular, submental, and cervical nodes.
The integumentary system includes skin, hair, nails, and glands; it protects, regulates temperature, and synthesizes vitamin D.
Androgens increase sebum production, while estrogen influences skin thickness and hydration.
Skin Analysis and Client Consultation
A consultation records health history, medications, allergies, prior esthetic or medical treatments, lifestyle, and treatment expectations.
Informed consent is documented before service and includes benefits, risks, alternatives, and the client's right to stop.
Wood's lamp findings: normal skin blue-white; dehydration light violet; sun damage yellow-brown; some bacterial fluorescence yellow-green.
The Fitzpatrick scale classifies skin I-VI by burning and tanning response and guides UV protection and treatment intensity.
Skin type is genetically based oil/water balance; skin condition is a temporary or treatable state such as dehydration, acne, or sensitivity.
A patch test is applied 24 to 48 hours before a new product, tint, adhesive, or peel when allergy risk exists.
Isotretinoin use, recent retinoid or acid peels, pregnancy, photosensitivity, and active infection are common treatment contraindications requiring deferral or medical clearance.
SOAP documentation stands for Subjective, Objective, Assessment, and Plan and supports consistent client records.
Facial Treatments and Massage
A basic facial sequence: consultation, cleansing, skin analysis, exfoliation, extractions if indicated, massage, mask, moisturizer, and sun protection.
Massage strokes include effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction, and vibration.
Facial massage generally moves upward and outward; pressure is avoided over the thyroid, carotid arteries, inflamed acne, and suspicious lesions.
Extractions are limited to visible comedones and pustules; cystic, inflamed, or undiagnosed lesions are referred.
Steam is held about 12 to 18 inches from the face for roughly 5 to 10 minutes; longer exposure can cause dehydration or burns.
Massage contraindications include fever, active infection, recent surgery, thrombosis, uncontrolled hypertension, and contagious skin conditions.
Draping and positioning protect client privacy and comfort; products and implements are sanitized between clients.
A mask is selected by skin condition: clay for oiliness, hydrating gel for dehydration, and calming formulas for sensitivity.
Hair Removal (Waxing and Depilation)
Hair growth cycles are anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting); waxing is most effective in anagen.
Epilation removes hair from the root (waxing, tweezing, electrolysis); depilation removes hair at the surface (shaving, depilatories).
Hair should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long for waxing; longer hair is trimmed before application.
Soft wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it with a strip; hard wax is applied thicker and removed without a strip.
Waxing is contraindicated over isotretinoin use, recent retinoid or acid peels, sunburn, open lesions, varicose veins, and compromised skin.
A patch test is performed 24 to 48 hours before waxing a new client or using a new wax formula.
Post-wax care avoids heat, friction, tight clothing, sun exposure, and exfoliation for 24 to 48 hours; sunscreen is used on exposed areas.
No double-dipping: a new spatula or wax strip is used each time, and gloves are worn.
Makeup
Foundation is matched on the jawline in natural light, comparing face and neck; the correct shade disappears without a line.
Color correction: green neutralizes redness; peach or orange neutralizes blue-purple; yellow neutralizes purple; lavender neutralizes yellow.
Face shapes include oval, round, square, heart, diamond, and oblong; contouring darkens recessive areas and highlighting brings forward.
Makeup order commonly: primer, foundation, concealer, powder, eye products, blush, lip color, and setting spray.
Mascara and liquid eye products are discarded about three months after opening or after an eye infection.
Brushes are cleaned with brush cleanser or mild soap, rinsed, and dried flat to prevent water from loosening the ferrule.
Pencils are sharpened before use; palettes are sanitized by scraping the surface and using a clean spatula or brush.
Makeup is not applied over open lesions, active infection, or undiagnosed irritation; disposable applicators prevent cross-contamination.
Lash and Brow Services
Lash extension application isolates one natural lash per extension; adhesive bonds only that lash to avoid traction and clumping.
Lash adhesive cure depends on temperature and humidity; high humidity can speed curing, while low humidity can slow it.
A lash lift uses a silicone shield and processing solution to curl natural lashes; water and steam are avoided for about 24 hours after service.
Lash and brow tint patch tests are performed 24 to 48 hours before service, even if the client has been tinted before.
Brow mapping uses three points: inner corner start, arch above the outer iris, and tail at the outer corner.
Eye infections, recent eye surgery, allergies to adhesive or tint, and uncontrolled eye conditions are contraindications for lash or brow services.
Disposable mascara wands, lash brushes, and adhesive nozzles are single-use; adhesive is dispensed fresh and not returned to the bottle.
Extension removal uses professional remover; pulling or picking extensions can damage natural lashes and irritate the eyelid.
Advanced Treatments: Exfoliation and Chemical Peels
Exfoliation is mechanical (scrubs, brushes, microdermabrasion) or chemical (AHAs, BHAs, enzymes).
AHAs include glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, and citric acids; they are water-soluble and work on the skin surface.
BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble, penetrates pores, and is contraindicated with aspirin allergy.
Peel strength depends on acid concentration, pH, contact time, and skin preparation; lower pH generally increases activity.
Superficial peels affect the epidermis; medium and deep peels reach the dermis and are medical procedures outside esthetic scope.
Peel contraindications include active infection, compromised barrier, recent isotretinoin, photosensitivity, pregnancy caution, and herpes history without prophylaxis.
Neutralization stops acid activity at the planned time; failure to neutralize can cause burns, blistering, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Post-peel care includes sunscreen, gentle cleansing, and avoidance of exfoliants, heat, and picking until healed.
Equipment, Implements and Modalities
Magnifying lamps provide magnification and lighting for skin analysis; the lens and handle are disinfected between clients.
Wood's lamp uses UV light to reveal hydration, pigmentation, and some bacterial or fungal fluorescence.
Galvanic current uses direct current; desincrustation softens sebum and iontophoresis introduces water-soluble products.
High frequency produces ozone and is used for antibacterial and drying effects; contraindications include pacemakers and pregnancy.
Microdermabrasion mechanically exfoliates with crystals or a diamond tip; it is avoided on active acne, rosacea, and thin skin.
LED red light around 630 to 660 nm supports collagen and healing; blue light around 405 to 420 nm targets acne bacteria.
Ultrasound uses gel and sound waves; continuous mode heats tissue, while pulsed mode is nonthermal.
Electrical modalities require dry skin, intact cords, client screening for implants or pacemakers, and eye protection for light treatments.
Professional Practices
Scope of practice defines legally permitted services; estheticians do not diagnose disease, prescribe medication, or perform invasive procedures.
Refer clients with suspicious lesions, severe inflammation, eye infections, or systemic symptoms to a physician.
Informed consent, confidentiality, and accurate records are professional and legal obligations.
OSHA bloodborne pathogens rules require an exposure-control plan, training, and proper handling of contaminated waste.
State boards regulate licensing, sanitation, and scope; local rules may add requirements.
Professional boundaries include avoiding dual relationships, respecting privacy, and declining services outside competence.
Incident reports document injuries, reactions, or exposures factually and promptly.
Continuing education and liability insurance support current practice and risk management.
Business and Ethics
Break-even revenue equals fixed costs divided by contribution margin ratio; break-even units equal fixed costs divided by price minus variable cost per unit.
Service pricing must cover variable costs, fixed overhead, labor, and profit margin.
Retail markup is the difference between cost and selling price; gross margin is markup divided by selling price.
Before-and-after photos require written consent that states where images will appear and the client's right to withdraw.
A business plan includes market analysis, services, pricing, marketing, startup costs, and financial projections.
Independent contractor and employee classifications differ in tax withholding, scheduling control, and benefits; misclassification has legal consequences.
Client retention strategies include consistent service, follow-up, loyalty programs, and referral incentives.
Advertising must be truthful; guarantees of specific results and unverified claims create legal and ethical risk.