KY Esthetician cheat sheet

Definitions: sanitation reduces pathogens on surfaces to a safe level; disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

Kentucky requires implements that contact skin or blood to be cleaned and then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant at label dilution and contact time; porous items that cannot be disinfected are single-use only.

Blood and body-fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towel, clean with soap and water, then disinfect the area with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal product; discard all contaminated materials in a sealed bag.

Handwashing is the primary control measure: soap and running water for at least 20 seconds, including under nails and between fingers; alcohol-based sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Do not double-dip applicators or spatulas; remove product with a clean spatula, never return used product to the container, and discard wax that contacted skin.

Chain of infection: infectious agent, reservoir, portal of exit, mode of transmission, portal of entry, susceptible host; breaking any link prevents transmission.

Disinfectant labels state dilution, contact time, and efficacy claims; mixing products (e.g., bleach with ammonia) can release toxic gas and is prohibited.

Universal precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious regardless of a client's appearance or stated health status; PPE includes gloves and eye protection for splash risk.

Epidermis layers from deep to superficial: stratum basale (germinativum), stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum (palms and soles only), stratum corneum.

Dermis contains collagen and elastin fibers, blood vessels, lymphatics, nerve endings, sebaceous glands, and hair follicles; it is the site of wrinkles and scars.

Subcutaneous (hypodermis) layer stores fat, insulates, and cushions; it contains larger blood vessels and nerves.

Skin functions: protection, sensation, heat regulation, excretion, secretion, and absorption; absorption favors lipid-soluble substances and is greatest in thin skin and follicles.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin, which determines skin color and provides UV protection; melanin production increases with sun exposure.

Acid mantle pH is about 4.5-5.5; it inhibits bacteria and maintains barrier lipids, so alkaline cleansers can disrupt the barrier.

Sweat (sudoriferous) glands include eccrine glands, which regulate temperature, and apocrine glands, found mainly in axillae and groin, activated at puberty.

Normal skin renewal (desquamation) takes roughly 28 days in young adults and slows with age, contributing to dullness and dryness.

Fitzpatrick phototypes I-VI classify sunburn and tanning response; higher types have more melanin and greater inherent UV protection but still risk photodamage.

Skin types by oil and water balance: normal, dry (alipidic or dehydrated), oily, combination; dehydration refers to low water content and can coexist with oily skin.

Lesion terminology: primary lesions (macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, bulla, nodule, wheal) versus secondary (scale, crust, fissure, excoriation, scar).

Contraindications to facial treatment include open lesions, active herpes simplex, sunburn, recent chemical peel or waxing, and undiagnosed skin conditions; refer to a physician.

T-zone assessment: forehead, nose, and chin oiliness with normal cheeks indicates combination skin; use lighter products on the T-zone.

Sensitive skin shows reactivity such as erythema, stinging, or tightness; patch-test products and avoid strong exfoliants and fragrances.

Aging skin shows thinning epidermis, reduced collagen and elastin, decreased sebum, and slower cell turnover; treat gently and emphasize hydration and sun protection.

Skin analysis sequence: observe, palpate if permitted, magnify with a lamp, and document findings; do not diagnose medical conditions.

Consultation components: health history, medications, allergies, prior treatments, skin concerns, and informed consent documented before service.

Standard facial sequence: cleansing, skin analysis, exfoliation, extraction if indicated, massage, mask, and moisturizer with sun protection.

Massage movements include effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), and friction; direction follows lymph drainage toward nodes.

Extraction is limited to pustules and comedones that are ready; do not extract pustules in the triangle of death area or inflamed cystic lesions.

Contraindications include recent surgery, active infection, uncontrolled diabetes, and use of isotretinoin; consult with the client's physician when uncertain.

Product removal and application use clean implements and single-use materials; keep massage and product sequence consistent for predictable results.

Contraindicated massage: avoid on areas with inflammation, open lesions, or recent injectables; avoid pressure on the thyroid area and carotid arteries.

Client records must document services, products, reactions, and consent; retain records per board rules and update at each visit.

Hair growth stages: anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), telogen (resting); waxing is most effective in anagen when hair is attached to the follicle.

Hair grows at about 1 cm per month; regrowth between waxing is typically 3-6 weeks, and repeated waxing can reduce density over time.

Contraindications: isotretinoin use, recent chemical peel or laser, sunburn, active herpes, open lesions, varicose veins, and use of blood thinners (physician clearance).

Wax temperature must be tested before application; hard wax is applied at a thicker layer and removed without a strip, while soft wax requires a cloth or paper strip.

Direction rules: apply wax in the direction of hair growth and remove against the growth for soft wax; hold skin taut to reduce trauma.

Post-wax care: soothe with a gentle product, avoid heat, sun, and tight clothing for 24 hours, and advise against exfoliating the area immediately.

Sanitation: never double-dip a spatula, use a new strip per application, discard wax that contacted skin, and disinfect the work area after each client.

Ingrown hairs (pseudofolliculitis) are prevented by exfoliation between services and avoiding tight clothing; do not extract deeply embedded hairs without care.

Color theory: complementary colors neutralize each other (green cancels redness, yellow cancels purple, peach/orange cancels blue); use for concealing and color correction.

Foundation selection matches undertone (warm, cool, neutral) and shade at the jawline in natural light; test on the jaw, not the hand.

Face shapes: oval, round, square, heart, diamond, and oblong; contouring darkens to recede and highlighting lightens to bring forward.

Eye shadow placement: base over the lid, contour in the crease, highlight on the brow bone; blend with a clean brush to avoid harsh lines.

Lash and brow rules: never share mascara or eye products; sharpen pencils and sanitize tools between clients; dispose of mascara after about 3 months.

Product forms: cream and liquid for dry or mature skin, powder for oily skin; set cream products with powder to improve wear.

Sanitation for makeup: scrape product onto a palette, use disposable applicators, and never dip fingers or used brushes back into containers.

Brow shaping follows the golden ratio: brow begins at the inner corner, arches over the outer iris, and ends at the outer corner.

pH scale 0-14: below 7 acidic, 7 neutral, above 7 alkaline; skin-friendly products are typically pH 4.5-5.5.

Emulsion types: oil-in-water (O/W) is lighter and non-greasy; water-in-oil (W/O) is heavier and more occlusive.

Surfactants have a hydrophilic head and lipophilic tail; they cleanse by suspending oil in water, and harsh surfactants can strip the barrier.

Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) attract water; emollients (oils, esters) soften and smooth; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) reduce water loss.

Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) exfoliate and increase sun sensitivity; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) is lipid-soluble and suited to oily, acne-prone skin.

Antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E) neutralize free radicals; vitamin C is unstable and benefits from opaque, airtight packaging.

Fragrance and essential oils are common sensitizers; patch-test and avoid on reactive or compromised skin.

Ingredient labels list ingredients in descending order of concentration; the first five ingredients usually determine the product's main function.

The Kentucky Board of Cosmetology regulates estheticians, cosmetologists, nail technicians, and salons; licenses must be displayed at the work station or salon.

Licensure requires completion of an approved esthetics program (typically 750 hours) and passing the state written and practical examinations; verify current hour requirements with the board.

License renewal occurs annually; continuing education requirements and late fees apply, and lapsed licenses require reinstatement.

Salon requirements include a current salon license, a designated area for services, proper plumbing, lighting, and ventilation, and a supply of clean linens and disinfectants.

Estheticians may perform skin care, makeup, waxing, and hair removal within scope; they may not diagnose or treat medical conditions or perform procedures reserved for physicians.

Advertising must not claim medical treatment or use misleading terms; use only the licensee's correct title (esthetician) and avoid unlicensed practice.

Board inspections may occur during business hours; violations can result in fines, suspension, or revocation of license.

Client records and consent forms should be kept confidential; report suspected communicable disease risks according to board and health department rules.