Makeup Application
Makeup questions combine color theory, sanitation, and face-shape correction. The exam expects you to neutralize rather than simply cover, and to keep every tool clean between clients.
Color theory
Primary colors are red, yellow, and blue; secondary are orange, green, and violet; tertiary colors mix a primary with a neighboring secondary. Complementary pairs neutralize: green cancels redness, lavender cancels sallow yellow, peach or orange cancels blue-grey (dark circles, bruising), yellow cancels purple.
Undertone and foundation
Undertone is warm (yellow, golden), cool (pink, blue), or neutral. Match foundation at the jawline in natural light, never on the hand, and check it in daylight. Choose the formula for the skin type: oil-free or matte for oily skin, hydrating for dry, fragrance-free for sensitive.
Face shapes and correction
Oval is the reference shape. Contour recedes (darker), highlight brings forward (lighter). Round: contour the sides to lengthen. Square: soften the corners. Heart: balance a wide forehead with contour at the temples. Long: shade the forehead and chin.
Sanitation
Never double-dip creams or gloss; use a spatula and disposable applicators; sharpen and wipe pencils; spray the palette; use disposable mascara wands only and never pump the wand back into the tube. Patch-test lash adhesive 24–48 hours ahead and keep eyes closed while it sets.
Worked example
A client with redness across the cheeks wants full coverage. Start with a green corrector on the cheeks only, then a fragrance-free foundation, then set lightly. A heavy pink-toned foundation alone will look grey and require more product to cover.
Traps
Matching foundation to the hand; testing only in salon lighting; over-correcting with too much green; sharing mascara; and using the same brush on a client with a cold sore.