LA Alternative Hair Design flashcards

33 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Cap type: lace front

A cap with sheer lace across the front hairline and individually knotted hair. It gives a natural hairline for pulled-back styles but is fragile and needs gentle handling and a lace-safe adhesive.

Cap type: monofilament top

A sheer nylon mesh top with hand-knotted hair that allows multi-directional parting and a scalp-like appearance. It costs more and is more delicate than a wefted top.

Density scale

A five-step scale from light to heavy describing how much hair is on the cap. Medium is the most common retail choice; heavy density needs a larger cap and stronger attachment.

Consultation intake fields

Medical history, scalp and adhesive sensitivity, lifestyle and activity, styling time budget, prior wig experience, budget ceiling, and color match to skin undertone. These drive fiber and cap selection.

Root color match rule

Match the unit to the natural hair color at the root or nape, not the dyed ends. Evaluate the swatch in daylight and in the salon's actual lighting before committing.

Disinfection benchmark

An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with a tuberculocidal claim, used at the label's stated contact time. It is the standard for implements that contact skin or scalp.

Pre-clean before disinfection

Hair and debris must be removed from implements before immersion. Organic soil inactivates disinfectant, so skipping the pre-clean step makes the disinfection invalid.

Porous versus nonporous

Porous items such as wood, fabric, foam, and some plastics cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded or single-client. Nonporous metal and hard plastic can be disinfected.

Hand hygiene standard

Wash with soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds before and after each client, after glove removal, and after restroom or eating. Sanitizer does not replace washing soiled hands.

Exposure control plan

The written OSHA-aligned plan covering bloodborne pathogen exposure: gloving, cleaning, disinfection, post-exposure evaluation, and documentation. Louisiana licensees must follow it.

Remy versus non-Remy

Remy hair has aligned, intact cuticles and resists tangling. Non-Remy hair has stripped or misaligned cuticles, tangles faster, and takes color less evenly.

Heat-defiant synthetic fiber

A synthetic fiber engineered to tolerate low heat styling, often up to about 350-400 F by manufacturer. Once heated, it loses its original factory curl pattern.

Swiss versus French lace

Swiss lace is finer and more invisible but fragile. French lace is more durable with a slightly visible grid and suits a front hairline well.

Knot types on lace

Single knots hold one hair and look most natural but are weakest. Double knots hold two hairs and are stronger. Bleached knots lighten color but weaken the knot.

Burn test identification

A shed strand burned safely: human hair smells like burning hair and leaves crushable ash; synthetic melts to a hard bead with a chemical odor.

Three head measurements

Circumference around the hairline and nape, front-to-nape from hairline center to nape, and ear-to-ear over the crown. These set cap size, depth, and nape placement.

Between-size decision rule

If circumference falls between two cap sizes, choose the larger and adjust with a nape adjuster or elastic band. A tight smaller cap causes headaches and tension alopecia.

Fit check points

Ear tabs centered over the ears, lace front at the natural hairline, nape edge flat on the neck, no temple lift, and no pressure points after ten minutes of wear.

Cap adjustment tools

Adjustable straps, Velcro tabs, elastic bands, and sewn-in clips tighten a loose cap. Take in the nape seam or add a silicone grip band rather than cutting the cap.

Cut synthetic dry

Synthetic fiber is cut dry only because wet fiber stretches and reads longer than it is. Blunt horizontal lines show a hard edge, so point-cut the ends instead.

Heat test rule

Test heat on a hidden lower strand first, use the lowest effective temperature, and keep the iron moving. Never hold a hot tool in one spot on synthetic fiber.

Steam set versus wet set

Synthetic fiber is set with steam and rollers, then cooled fully before removal. Human hair takes a wet set with setting lotion and dries under a hood or air.

Cutting order

Establish perimeter and length first, blend interior layers second, texturize ends last. Check balance with the unit on the client's head, not on the block alone.

Lace trim sequence

Fit the unit first, then trim lace in small increments so the hairline is not cut too far back. Keep the hairline knots intact during any cutting.

Synthetic color limitation

Synthetic fiber cannot be lightened with bleach or developer. It accepts only surface color from fabric or synthetic-specific dye, and the color may bleed or fade.

Human hair lift limit

Do not lighten human hair wigs more than about two levels in one session. Wig hair is often pre-processed, so over-lifting causes breakage and a brassy, dry result.

Developer selection on wigs

Use 10 volume for deposit and toning and 20 volume for one to two levels of lift. Avoid 30-40 volume unless a strand test proves the fiber tolerates it.

Adhesive selection rule

Lace fronts need lace-specific adhesive or tape that dries clear. Polyurethane perimeters take acrylic or silicone adhesive. Skin-sensitive clients need medical-grade, low-residue products.

Scalp prep before adhesive

Cleanse the skin, remove oils, dry fully, and apply a scalp protector. Adhesive will not bond to oily or damp skin and lifts within hours.

Adhesive cure time

Liquid adhesives need the label's tack time, often several minutes, before the unit is placed. Pressing too early traps solvent and weakens the bond.

Safe adhesive removal

Use the manufacturer's solvent or remover and work slowly from the edges. Never pull a unit off dry, because dry removal damages the lace and the client's skin.

Louisiana alternative hair license

A distinct Louisiana State Board of Cosmetology license separate from cosmetology. It requires an approved school program, the board examination, an application, and a fee.

Louisiana scope caution

Chemical relaxing or coloring may fall under cosmetology scope rather than alternative hair design. Verify the current board rule before performing any service outside the license.