MA Barber cheat sheet
MA Barber · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Sanitation, Sterilization, and Safety
Disinfection destroys most but not all microorganisms on surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.
Hospital-level disinfectants (tuberculocidal) are required for items contaminated with blood or body fluids.
An EPA-registered disinfectant must be used at its label dilution and contact time to be effective.
Implements that contact skin must be cleaned of debris, then immersed in disinfectant; porous items that cannot be disinfected are discarded.
Single-use items (razor blades, neck strips, cotton) are never reused on another client.
Hand washing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds precedes and follows every service.
Blood and body-fluid spills are cleaned with gloves, absorbent material, and a tuberculocidal disinfectant; contaminated waste is bagged.
Electrical tools are kept away from water; cords are inspected for fraying to prevent shock and fire hazards.
Hair and Scalp Analysis
Hair is analyzed by density (thin to thick), texture (fine, medium, coarse), porosity, elasticity, and growth pattern.
Porosity is tested by sliding fingers along a strand: rough/squeaky feel indicates high porosity, smooth indicates low porosity.
Elasticity is tested by stretching a wet strand; healthy hair stretches about 50% and returns without breaking.
Hair growth patterns include cowlicks and whorls; a whorl at the crown grows in a circular pattern.
Scalp types are normal, oily, and dry; analysis determines shampoo and treatment selection.
Fine hair has a small diameter and processes chemicals faster than coarse hair.
Coarse hair has the largest diameter and resists chemical penetration, often needing longer processing.
Density is the number of hairs per square inch; it affects tool selection and cutting technique, not chemical timing.
Diseases and Disorders
Contagious conditions (ringworm, impetigo, head lice, scabies) prohibit service and require referral to a physician.
Tinea barbae and tinea capitis are fungal infections of the beard area and scalp respectively.
Barber's itch (tinea barbae/sycosis) presents as inflamed follicles and pustules in the beard region.
Furuncle is a localized bacterial infection of a hair follicle; a carbuncle is a cluster of furuncles.
Pediculosis is an infestation of lice; service is refused and the client is referred.
Seborrheic dermatitis causes flaky, oily scales and is not contagious; dandruff is a mild form of scaling.
Alopecia areata causes patchy hair loss; alopecia totalis is total scalp hair loss.
Hirsutism is excessive hair growth, often in women, on areas where hair is normally minimal.
Shaving, Beard Design, and Facial Hair Services
Shaving follows the direction of hair growth for a close shave; against-the-grain passes increase irritation risk.
A shaving lather softens the beard and holds moisture; hot towels raise the hair and open follicles before shaving.
The straight razor is held at about a 30-degree angle to the skin, with the skin held taut.
Shaving strokes are short and even; the razor is rinsed and wiped between strokes.
Beard design uses outlines determined by facial bone structure and hair growth direction.
The neckline of a beard is shaped above the Adam's apple, following the jawline curve.
Aftershave products soothe and disinfect; a styptic powder controls minor nicks and bleeding.
Clippers and trimmers for beard work are disinfected between clients, and blades are oiled to maintain function.
Haircutting and Styling
The four basic haircut forms are solid, graduated, increase-layered, and uniform-layered.
A solid form has no elevation and builds weight at the perimeter; graduated form builds weight at the perimeter with elevation.
Elevation is the angle at which hair is held from the head; 0 degrees is blunt, 90 degrees is uniform layering.
The guide (section) is the strand of hair used as a reference for length and shape.
Cross-checking compares opposite sections to verify balance and even length.
Texturizing removes bulk and creates movement using shears, razors, or thinning shears.
The nape and sides are cut before the top in most men's cuts to establish perimeter length.
Blow-dry styling uses tension and directional airflow to smooth and shape the hair.
Chemical Services: Permanent Waving, Relaxing, and Color
Permanent wave solution breaks disulfide bonds; the neutralizer rebuilds them in the new shape.
A relaxer uses a strong alkaline (or thio) agent to straighten curly hair by breaking disulfide bonds.
The patch test checks for allergic reaction to color or relaxer 24 to 48 hours before service.
The strand test determines processing time and expected result before full application.
Color levels range from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); developers lift or deposit depending on strength.
Hydrogen peroxide developer strengths are typically 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume.
A virgin application applies color to hair that has never been chemically treated.
Relaxer retouch application begins at the new growth, avoiding previously relaxed hair to prevent overprocessing.
Anatomy, Physiology, and Histology of Hair and Skin
The hair shaft has three layers: cuticle (outer), cortex (middle), and medulla (core).
The cortex contains melanin and provides strength, elasticity, and color.
The follicle is a tube-like depression in the skin from which the hair grows.
The papilla at the base of the follicle supplies blood and nutrients to the hair.
The sebaceous gland secretes sebum, which lubricates hair and skin.
The arrector pili muscle contracts to make hair stand up (goosebumps).
The epidermis is the outer skin layer; the dermis contains nerves, glands, and follicles.
The three stages of hair growth are anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting).
Implements, Tools, and Equipment
Shears are measured in inches; cutting shears are never used on anything but hair to preserve the edge.
Thinning shears have one serrated blade and remove bulk without changing overall length.
The straight razor consists of a handle, tang, shank, and blade; the blade is replaced or stropped.
Clippers are sized by blade number; lower numbers cut closer to the skin.
Combs are classified by material and tooth spacing; wide-tooth combs detangle, fine-tooth combs smooth.
Brushes include the styling brush, round brush, and neck duster; each is cleaned after use.
Electrical equipment includes clippers, trimmers, and blow dryers; all require regular maintenance and cord inspection.
Shears are disinfected, dried, and oiled at the pivot after each use to maintain function.
Massachusetts Barber Law, Rules, and Regulations
Massachusetts barber licensing and shop sanitation are governed by Board of Registration of Barbers rules under 240 CMR.
A barber license must be displayed in the shop, and only licensed barbers may perform services.
Shops must meet sanitation standards, including disinfected implements, clean towels, and proper waste disposal.
Bloodborne pathogen training is required for licensees as part of continuing education and safety compliance.
Continuing education hours are required for license renewal, including sanitation and safety topics.
Services are refused for clients with contagious conditions, and the refusal is documented.
Implements must be disinfected in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant; single-use items are discarded.
Shops are subject to inspection by the Board, and violations can result in fines, suspension, or revocation.