MA Cosmetology cheat sheet

Reference points: apex (highest point on top of the head), parietal ridge, occipital bone, crown, nape, and the four corners, which mark where the head shape changes and where weight must be removed.

Cutting lines: horizontal builds weight, vertical removes weight and creates graduation, diagonal softens and blends the line.

Elevation map: 0° = one-length blunt; 45° = graduated; 90° = uniform layers; 135° = increased layering; 180° = long layers with the perimeter length retained.

Distribution types: natural fall follows the head shape, perpendicular holds hair 90° from the curve of the head, and shifted (overdirected) moves hair to a stationary still point.

Guidelines: stationary (does not move, builds a weight line), traveling (moves with each section), and section (used for one area only, then discarded).

Weight results: blunt cut = solid weight line at the perimeter; graduated = stacked weight above the perimeter; long-layered = internal weight removed while perimeter weight is kept.

Texturizing methods: point cutting, notching, slicing, slithering, chopping, free-hand notching, and clipper-over-comb.

Clipper-over-comb and shear-over-comb are used for tight tapering and blending on short hair; the comb acts as the guideline and stays flat against the head.

Cross-checking, cutting against the original section, confirms that the line is balanced and even on both sides.

Base placement controls volume: on-base = maximum lift, half-base = medium lift, off-base = minimum lift and a flatter result.

Pin curl anatomy: base (the immobile section), stem (controls direction and movement), and circle (controls curl size and tightness).

Roller diameter rule: larger rollers give less curl and more volume; smaller rollers give a tighter curl and less volume.

Thermal iron temperature guide: fine, lightened, or damaged hair 250-310°F; medium texture 310-350°F; coarse resistant hair 350-400°F; confirm with a tissue-paper heat test.

Blow-drying technique: hold the dryer at roughly a 45° angle with the nozzle pointing down the hair shaft, maintain tension, and finish with a cool shot to set the shape.

Marcel (springless) irons and thermal pressing combs are used for straightening and for pressing textured hair; a finishing comb follows the pressing comb to smooth the section.

Styling product functions: mousse adds volume to fine hair, gel gives firm hold and slickness, pomade gives shine and control on short hair, silicone serum smooths frizz, hairspray sets the finished style.

Finger waving is done on wet hair combed into alternating ridge and hollow C and S shapes; two ridges form one complete wave.

Bubble hair, a beading of the shaft caused by excessive heat, leaves hair brittle and prone to breakage and is a sign to reduce temperature or stop thermal styling.

Melanin types: eumelanin supplies brown-black pigment, pheomelanin supplies red-yellow pigment; their ratio sets the natural level and how much warmth appears during lifting.

The level system runs 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); find the natural level on clean dry hair by matching the mid-shaft to a swatch in daylight.

Contributing pigment is the warmth exposed as natural pigment is lifted; the sequence is red, red-orange, orange, yellow-orange, yellow, pale yellow.

Color wheel: primaries red, yellow, blue; secondaries orange, green, violet; complementary pairs neutralize each other (blue with orange, green with red, violet with yellow).

Developer strengths: 10 volume (3%) deposits only; 20 volume (6%) lifts 1-2 levels; 30 volume (9%) lifts 2-3 levels; 40 volume (12%) lifts 3-4 levels when used with lightener.

Permanent color uses an aniline derivative plus developer and lifts and deposits; semipermanent is deposit-only and fades in about 4-6 shampoos; demi-permanent uses low-volume developer and lasts longer.

A patch test 24-48 hours before an aniline derivative service checks for allergic reaction; a strand test determines processing time and the expected result.

Filling is required before depositing color on previously lightened hair, because missing red and yellow pigment causes muddy, green, or ash results.

Double-process color means lightening first and then toning; a toner is a deposit-only formula used to refine the shade after lightening.

Permanent wave chemistry: the reducing agent breaks disulfide bonds, hair is wrapped on rods into the new shape, and the neutralizer rebuilds the bonds by oxidation.

Alkaline waves use ammonium thioglycolate at pH 8.5-9.5 and process faster with more cuticle swelling; acid waves use glyceryl monothioglycolate at pH 6.5-7.2 and require heat.

A test curl shows when processing is complete: the S pattern should match the rod diameter, and continuing past that point causes over-processing.

Relaxer types: sodium hydroxide (lye, pH 12-14), guanidine hydroxide (no-lye, calcium hydroxide plus guanidine carbonate), lithium hydroxide, and ammonium thioglycolate (thio, pH around 9).

Base relaxers require a protective base cream on the scalp; no-base relaxers are applied without base and only exactly as the manufacturer directs.

A retouch covers new growth only; overlapping previously relaxed hair causes over-processing, breakage, and scalp irritation.

After a relaxer, shampoo with the neutralizing shampoo until the lather stays its normal color, then apply a pH-balancing conditioner.

Curl reforming (soft curl perm) is a two-step service: a thio relaxer softens the pattern, then the hair is wrapped and reduced and neutralized into the new curl.

A relaxer is never applied over freshly lightened or bleached hair; the combination causes severe breakage.

Surfactant classes: anionic (strongest cleaning and lather), cationic (conditioning and antistatic, used in cream rinses), nonionic (mild, used as thickeners), amphoteric (mild and charge-balancing).

Hair sits at pH 4.5-5.5; alkaline shampoo raises the cuticle and increases friction, while an acidic rinse smooths and closes the cuticle.

Water temperature: warm water for cleansing, cool water for the final rinse; hot water strips color and natural oils.

Scalp massage manipulations: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction (circular rubbing), and vibration (shaking).

Massage contraindications: high blood pressure, heart conditions, diabetes, epilepsy, recent injury or surgery, and contagious scalp disease.

Hair analysis covers four things: texture, density, porosity, and elasticity; a wet strand that stretches about half its length and returns has normal elasticity.

High porosity means a raised cuticle that absorbs moisture fast and loses it fast, so it needs acidic penetrating conditioner; low porosity is resistant and needs heat and lighter product.

Scalp disorders requiring medical referral: tinea capitis (ringworm), pediculosis (lice), folliculitis with pus, and seborrheic dermatitis with open lesions.

Clarifying and chelating shampoos remove product build-up and hard-water mineral deposits and are used before chemical services.

Skin types are normal, dry, oily, and combination; the Fitzpatrick scale (I-VI) rates how skin responds to ultraviolet light and guides treatment caution.

Basic facial sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, massage, mask, tone, moisturize, and protect.

Massage movements: effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, friction, and vibration; strokes travel upward and outward following the muscle fibers.

Facial contraindications: open lesions, sunburn, an active cold sore, a rosacea flare, recent surgery or chemical peel, and contagious skin disease.

Exfoliation types: mechanical (scrub, brush) and chemical (AHA such as glycolic or lactic acid; BHA such as salicylic acid, which is oil-soluble and suited to acne-prone skin).

Waxing rules: apply wax in the direction of hair growth and remove against it, test the temperature on the inner wrist, and patch test 24 hours ahead.

Waxing contraindications include isotretinoin (Accutane), topical retinoids, recent peels or laser, sunburn, and varicose veins.

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum and basal layer with melanocytes), dermis (collagen and elastin), and subcutaneous tissue.

Primary lesions are macule, papule, vesicle, pustule, nodule, and wheal; secondary lesions are crust, scale, scar, ulcer, and fissure.

Nail structures: nail plate, nail bed, matrix, lunula, eponychium (cuticle), hyponychium, sidewalls, nail folds, and free edge.

Growth rate: fingernails grow about 3 mm (1/8 inch) per month, toenails grow more slowly, and growth is faster in summer and in younger clients.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, round, oval, pointed or stiletto, and coffin; squoval resists breakage best on natural nails.

Filing: use 180-240 grit on natural nails and file in one direction from corner to center to seal the free edge and prevent splitting.

Manicure sequence: shape, cuticle care, massage, base coat, polish, top coat; implements are disinfected before every client.

Liquid-and-powder nails use a monomer liquid and polymer powder; the correct ratio forms a workable bead, too wet causes shrinkage and too dry causes brittleness.

MMA (methyl methacrylate) monomer is prohibited in Massachusetts salons; EMA is the accepted alternative.

Disorders: onychomycosis (fungal, refer), paronychia (bacterial infection, refer), onychocryptosis (ingrown nail), leukonychia (white spots), onychophagy (biting), and onychorrhexis (splitting).

Pedicure sequence: soak, exfoliate, file, cuticle care, massage, polish; callus is reduced with a file or rasp, and sharp blades are avoided on diabetic or circulation-compromised clients.

Disinfection uses an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant on hard nonporous implements for the full label contact time, commonly 10 minutes, and kills most bacteria, fungi, and viruses.

Sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores and requires an autoclave; disinfection does not sterilize.

Two-step implement care: wash with soap and water and dry, then fully immerse in disinfectant; porous items such as wooden sticks, cotton, and foam buffers are single-use and discarded.

Blood or body-fluid spill protocol: stop the service, put on gloves, clean with a tuberculocidal disinfectant or 1:10 bleach solution, cover the wound, and discard contaminated porous items.

Hand washing with soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after every client and after contact with blood or body fluids.

Massachusetts requires 1,000 hours of board-approved cosmetology education before a candidate may sit for the licensing examination; licenses are issued by the Board of Registration of Cosmetology and Barbering within the Division of Professional Licensure.

Massachusetts practice rules: the license must be displayed, service is refused to anyone with a visible contagious or infectious condition, and implements are disinfected before each client.

Anatomy: skull bones are frontal, parietal, occipital, and temporal; key muscles are frontalis, temporalis, occipitalis, masseter, trapezius, platysma, and sternocleidomastoid; the facial nerve (VII) and trigeminal nerve (V) supply the face.

Electrical safety: no appliances near water, inspect cords and plugs before use, keep safety data sheets accessible, and work with feet apart, back straight, and the client at eye level.