MD Barber cheat sheet

Bacteria shapes: cocci (spherical), bacilli (rod), spirilla (spiral); staphylococci form clusters and streptococci form chains.

Pathogenic bacteria cause disease; nonpathogenic bacteria are harmless or beneficial. Viruses require a living host cell to reproduce.

Disinfection kills most pathogenic microbes on nonporous surfaces but not necessarily spores; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

EPA-registered hospital disinfectants must be used at label dilution and for the full label contact time.

The pH scale runs 0–14: 7 is neutral, below 7 acidic, above 7 alkaline; skin and hair are mildly acidic (about pH 4.5–5.5).

The adult skull has 8 cranial bones and 14 facial bones; the masseter and temporalis are muscles of mastication.

The epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous layer are the three main skin layers; the dermis contains nerves, glands, and blood vessels.

OSHA Bloodborne Pathogens Standard requires gloves, spill kits, labeled waste containers, and exposure-control training.

Quaternary ammonium compounds are common low-level disinfectants; they must not be mixed with other chemicals unless the label allows it.

Hair shaft layers from outside in: cuticle, cortex, medulla; the cortex contains melanin and determines strength and color.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), telogen (resting and shedding); scalp hair grows about 1/2 inch per month.

Follicle shape determines curl: round follicles produce straight hair, oval produce wavy, and flat produce curly hair.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, which lubricates hair and scalp; overactive glands cause oily hair, underactive glands cause dry hair.

Normal shedding is about 50–100 hairs per day; sudden patchy loss should be referred to a physician.

Tinea capitis is a contagious fungal scalp infection with scaling and patchy loss; it is not treated with ordinary dandruff shampoo.

Pediculosis capitis is a lice infestation; symptoms include itching and nits on the hair shaft; combs and brushes must not be shared.

Elasticity test: wet hair stretches and returns to length; poor elasticity means weak hair that may break during chemical services.

Porosity test: hair that floats has low porosity; hair that sinks quickly has high porosity and absorbs chemicals rapidly.

Cutting angles: 0° blunt/one-length, 45° graduated, 90° uniform layer, 180° long layer.

A stationary guide does not move and establishes the length; a mobile guide moves with each section and follows the previous cut.

Standard clipper guard sizes: #1 = 1/8 inch, #2 = 1/4 inch, #3 = 3/8 inch, #4 = 1/2 inch.

A taper shortens the perimeter gradually; a fade blends the hair to the skin with no visible line.

Shear-over-comb removes bulk and blends transition areas; the comb acts as a guide and protects the scalp.

Razor cutting creates soft, textured ends and is used on wet hair with light tension.

Cross-check by combing hair opposite to the original cutting direction to reveal uneven lines.

Blow-dry styling directs airflow from scalp to ends to smooth the cuticle; a nozzle concentrates air for control.

Elevation is the angle at which hair is held from the head; projection is the angle at which it is cut.

Shaving sequence: prepare skin with warm towel, apply lather, stretch skin taut, shave with the grain first.

A straight razor should be held at about a 30-degree angle to the skin; too steep an angle causes nicks and razor burn.

Freehand, backhand, and reverse backhand are the three basic straight-razor strokes used in facial shaving.

Honing sharpens the razor edge on a stone; stropping polishes and aligns the edge on leather.

Pseudofolliculitis barbae is caused by ingrown curly hairs; close shaving can worsen it, and affected skin may need medical care.

Beard neckline: approximately one finger's width above the Adam's apple, curved from ear to ear.

Aftershave products are antiseptic and astringent; they remove residue and help close pores after shaving.

Facial hair design must follow natural growth patterns and facial symmetry; outline the beard before trimming length.

Disposable razor blades must be discarded after use; straight razors must be cleaned and disinfected between clients.

Permanent wave: reducing agent breaks disulfide bonds, hair is wrapped and reshaped, neutralizer oxidizes and reforms the bonds.

Alkaline waves use ammonium thioglycolate at about pH 9.0–9.5; acid-balanced waves have a lower pH and usually require heat.

Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH of about 12–14; no-lye relaxers use guanidine hydroxide and have a lower pH.

Relaxer neutralizer is acidic; it lowers pH, stops processing, and helps restore disulfide bonds.

A virgin relaxer is applied to the entire head; a retouch is applied only to new growth and overlaps previously relaxed hair minimally.

Hair color levels run from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); the level indicates lightness/darkness, not tone.

Developer is hydrogen peroxide; 10 volume deposits, 20 volume lifts one level, 30 volume lifts two to three, 40 volume lifts three to four.

Patch test for color is checked 24–48 hours after application; a strand test predicts processing time and result.

Virgin color application generally starts at midshaft and ends, with scalp area last to avoid excessive lift at the roots.

The Maryland State Board of Barbers licenses barbers, barbershops, and barber schools and enforces sanitation rules through inspections.

A current barbershop license must be displayed in the shop; a barber's individual license must be available for inspection.

Wash hands with soap and water before and after each client and after removing gloves.

Nonporous tools that contact skin must be cleaned, then completely immersed in an EPA-registered hospital disinfectant for the label contact time.

Porous items such as pumice stones and nail files cannot be disinfected and must be discarded after use.

Blood or body-fluid spills: stop service, wear gloves, absorb with disposable material, disinfect the area, and dispose of waste in a closed container.

Wet sanitizers hold disinfectant solution; dry sanitizers hold clean, disinfected, dry tools.

No eating, drinking, or smoking in the service area; clean towels and capes must be used for each client.

Unsanitary conditions or unlicensed practice can lead to fines, suspension, or revocation of a Maryland barber or shop license.