Shaving and Facial Hair Design
What a candidate must know
Razor anatomy and care. Identify the handle, tang, shank, shoulder, blade, back, edge, and point. Honing grinds and sharpens the edge on a stone; stropping realigns and smooths the edge on leather. Never hone or strop a disposable blade.
Shaving procedure. Soften the beard with warm towels and lather, stretch the skin, and shave with the grain using short strokes. Hold the razor at roughly a 30° angle, keep the free hand controlling skin tension, and rinse the blade often. Finish with a cool towel, astringent or toner, and moisturizer.
Razor positions and strokes. Freehand, backhand, and reverse backhand positions; freehand and backhand strokes. The razor must be closed or set down between strokes - never gestured with an open blade.
Facial hair design. Outline shaves, beard and mustache shaping, and neckline work using the natural growth patterns and the client's bone structure. Trim against the natural fall only when the design requires it, and check symmetry with both sides of the face.
Contraindications and safety. Do not shave over moles, raised areas, chapped or inflamed skin, or active infections; refer contagious conditions. Blood exposure requires stopping, gloving, and following the shop's blood-spill procedure.
Traps
- Honing versus stropping is a frequent swap - hone = sharpen, strop = smooth.
- Shaving against the grain on a first-time client invites irritation and ingrown hairs.
Rule of thumb
Angle check: about 30° between blade and skin gives a close shave without scraping. If the client flinches, the angle is too steep.