MD Cosmetology cheat sheet

Hair structure: cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk, melanin, disulfide bonds), medulla (central core, may be absent in fine hair).

pH scale 0-14: hair and scalp prefer pH 4.5-5.5; alkaline products raise the cuticle, acidic products close it.

Disulfide bond chemistry: thio relaxers and perms break disulfide bonds; hydrogen peroxide in neutralizers re-forms them into the new shape.

Hydrogen peroxide developer volumes: 10 vol = 3%, 20 vol = 6%, 30 vol = 9%, 40 vol = 12%; higher volume lifts more and deposits less.

Level system 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); tone is described as warm, neutral, or cool, independent of level.

Patch test 24-48 hours before any aniline-derivative (oxidative) color service; record the result in the client record.

Curl diameter rule: on-base placement gives maximum volume and tightest curl; off-base and base-control give less volume and looser curl.

Relaxer vs. texturizer: relaxers straighten fully with high pH (often 12-14); texturizers partially loosen the wave pattern.

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum, granulosum, spinosum, basale), dermis (collagen, elastin), hypodermis (subcutaneous fat).

Fitzpatrick types I-VI estimate UV response; type I burns easily and never tans, type VI rarely burns and tans deeply.

Skin pH averages about 4.5-5.5 (acid mantle); alkaline cleansers strip lipids and increase irritation risk.

Facial treatment order: consultation and analysis, cleansing, exfoliation, extractions, massage, mask, moisturizer and SPF.

Extraction is contraindicated over inflamed acne, active cold sores, recent waxing, or telangiectasia; use gentle pressure only on non-inflamed comedones.

Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) work in the epidermis; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) is lipid-soluble and penetrates pores.

Waxing temperature: hard wax melts around 55-60 C, soft wax around 65-70 C; always test on inner wrist before application.

Contraindications to heat and electrical facial devices: pregnancy, pacemaker, epilepsy, metal implants, recent chemical peel.

Nail anatomy: nail plate, nail bed, matrix (growth area), lunula (visible matrix), cuticle and eponychium, hyponychium, free edge.

Fingernails grow about 3 mm per month; toenails about 1 mm per month; growth slows with age and poor circulation.

Nail plate is composed mainly of keratin; it is non-living and does not absorb moisture from the air but can swell when soaked.

Do not cut the eponychium or living tissue; push back only the non-living cuticle and use a nipper for hangnails with client consent.

Nail disorder vs. disease: onychomycosis, paronychia, and Pseudomonas (green) infection are diseases and require referral to a physician.

Acrylic liquid (monomer) and powder (polymer) cure by exothermic polymerization; ratio too wet causes shrinkage, too dry causes lifting.

Gel polish requires UV/LED curing; primer and bonder improve adhesion, and proper removal uses acetone soak, never force.

Sanitation rule: porous implements (emery boards, buffers) are single-use or discarded; metal implements are cleaned, disinfected, and stored covered.

Cleaning removes visible debris; disinfection kills most microorganisms on surfaces; sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with tuberculocidal claim is required for implements that contact blood or body fluids.

Blood spill protocol: stop service, don gloves, clean the area, apply disinfectant, discard contaminated materials in a sealed bag, wash hands.

Hand washing with soap and running water for at least 20 seconds is the single most effective infection control measure.

Standard precautions treat all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious regardless of client disclosure.

Contraindications to service include open sores, inflamed skin, lice, ringworm, and active herpes lesions; refer to a physician.

Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) must be on file for every chemical product; follow label first aid and ventilation requirements.

Electrical safety: use GFCI outlets near water, keep cords away from water, and never use equipment with damaged insulation.

The Maryland State Board of Cosmetologists regulates cosmetologists, estheticians, nail technicians, and salons under the Maryland Department of Labor.

License types include cosmetologist, senior cosmetologist, esthetician, nail technician, and salon; each requires the appropriate board license to practice.

Salon license must be posted conspicuously; individual licenses must be available for inspection at the workstation.

License renewal occurs on a two-year cycle; continuing education hours are required for renewal as set by the Board.

A licensee may not perform services outside the scope of their license; estheticians may not perform hair or nail services.

Sanitation and safety standards are enforced by Board inspectors; violations can result in fines, suspension, or revocation.

Client records must be maintained and kept confidential; services on minors follow Board and parental-consent rules.

Practicing without a valid license or allowing an unlicensed person to perform services is a violation subject to Board discipline.

Hair structure: cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk, melanin, disulfide bonds), medulla (central core, may be absent in fine hair).

pH scale 0-14: hair and scalp prefer pH 4.5-5.5; alkaline products raise the cuticle, acidic products close it.

Disulfide bond chemistry: thio relaxers and perms break disulfide bonds; hydrogen peroxide in neutralizers re-forms them into the new shape.

Hydrogen peroxide developer volumes: 10 vol = 3%, 20 vol = 6%, 30 vol = 9%, 40 vol = 12%; higher volume lifts more and deposits less.

Level system 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); tone is described as warm, neutral, or cool, independent of level.

Patch test 24-48 hours before any aniline-derivative (oxidative) color service; record the result in the client record.

Curl diameter rule: on-base placement gives maximum volume and tightest curl; off-base and base-control give less volume and looser curl.

Relaxer vs. texturizer: relaxers straighten fully with high pH (often 12-14); texturizers partially loosen the wave pattern.

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum, granulosum, spinosum, basale), dermis (collagen, elastin), hypodermis (subcutaneous fat).

Fitzpatrick types I-VI estimate UV response; type I burns easily and never tans, type VI rarely burns and tans deeply.

Skin pH averages about 4.5-5.5 (acid mantle); alkaline cleansers strip lipids and increase irritation risk.

Facial treatment order: consultation and analysis, cleansing, exfoliation, extractions, massage, mask, moisturizer and SPF.

Extraction is contraindicated over inflamed acne, active cold sores, recent waxing, or telangiectasia; use gentle pressure only on non-inflamed comedones.

Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) work in the epidermis; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) is lipid-soluble and penetrates pores.

Waxing temperature: hard wax melts around 55-60 C, soft wax around 65-70 C; always test on inner wrist before application.

Contraindications to heat and electrical facial devices: pregnancy, pacemaker, epilepsy, metal implants, recent chemical peel.

Nail anatomy: nail plate, nail bed, matrix (growth area), lunula (visible matrix), cuticle and eponychium, hyponychium, free edge.

Fingernails grow about 3 mm per month; toenails about 1 mm per month; growth slows with age and poor circulation.

Nail plate is composed mainly of keratin; it is non-living and does not absorb moisture from the air but can swell when soaked.

Do not cut the eponychium or living tissue; push back only the non-living cuticle and use a nipper for hangnails with client consent.

Nail disorder vs. disease: onychomycosis, paronychia, and Pseudomonas (green) infection are diseases and require referral to a physician.

Acrylic liquid (monomer) and powder (polymer) cure by exothermic polymerization; ratio too wet causes shrinkage, too dry causes lifting.

Gel polish requires UV/LED curing; primer and bonder improve adhesion, and proper removal uses acetone soak, never force.

Sanitation rule: porous implements (emery boards, buffers) are single-use or discarded; metal implements are cleaned, disinfected, and stored covered.

Cleaning removes visible debris; disinfection kills most microorganisms on surfaces; sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with tuberculocidal claim is required for implements that contact blood or body fluids.

Blood spill protocol: stop service, don gloves, clean the area, apply disinfectant, discard contaminated materials in a sealed bag, wash hands.

Hand washing with soap and running water for at least 20 seconds is the single most effective infection control measure.

Standard precautions treat all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious regardless of client disclosure.

Contraindications to service include open sores, inflamed skin, lice, ringworm, and active herpes lesions; refer to a physician.

Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) must be on file for every chemical product; follow label first aid and ventilation requirements.

Electrical safety: use GFCI outlets near water, keep cords away from water, and never use equipment with damaged insulation.

The Maryland State Board of Cosmetologists regulates cosmetologists, estheticians, nail technicians, and salons under the Maryland Department of Labor.

License types include cosmetologist, senior cosmetologist, esthetician, nail technician, and salon; each requires the appropriate board license to practice.

Salon license must be posted conspicuously; individual licenses must be available for inspection at the workstation.

License renewal occurs on a two-year cycle; continuing education hours are required for renewal as set by the Board.

A licensee may not perform services outside the scope of their license; estheticians may not perform hair or nail services.

Sanitation and safety standards are enforced by Board inspectors; violations can result in fines, suspension, or revocation.

Client records must be maintained and kept confidential; services on minors follow Board and parental-consent rules.

Practicing without a valid license or allowing an unlicensed person to perform services is a violation subject to Board discipline.