MD Esthetician cheat sheet

The Maryland State Board of Cosmetologists licenses estheticians and salons, adopts sanitation rules, and may inspect, fine, suspend, or revoke a license.

An esthetician license is issued to an individual, is not transferable to another person or location, and must be available for inspection at the work station.

Maryland esthetician scope covers skin care treatments, facials, makeup application, and temporary hair removal by waxing, tweezing, or threading; laser resurfacing and deep chemical peels are outside scope.

A salon may not operate without a current salon permit; a Board inspection is required before opening and upon change of ownership.

Board inspectors may enter a licensed salon during business hours without prior notice to check sanitation, equipment, and license status.

Performing esthetic services without a valid license, or in an unpermitted salon, is unlicensed practice subject to fines and license denial or discipline.

Implements must be cleaned and then disinfected between clients, and single-use items such as wooden spatulas, cotton, gloves, and wax strips are never reused.

A licensee who permits an unlicensed person to perform esthetic services is subject to Board discipline, even if the unlicensed person is an employee or assistant.

License renewal runs on the Board's biennial cycle; continuing to practice after the expiration date counts as unlicensed practice.

Cleaning removes visible soil; sanitation reduces microbial counts on surfaces; disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.

Implements go through two steps: scrub with soap and water, dry completely, then immerse fully in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the label contact time, commonly 10 minutes.

Porous items (wood, foam, cotton, pumice, unsealed files) cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded or supplied as single-use.

Pathogenic bacteria are classified by shape as cocci (round), bacilli (rod), and spirilla (spiral); spores are the dormant, most resistant form.

Hand washing with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after every client and after removing gloves.

Any blood or body-fluid contact requires gloves; contaminated sharps go into a rigid sharps container, and spills are cleaned then disinfected per bloodborne pathogen rules.

Disinfectant solutions are mixed at label dilution, checked with test strips when applicable, replaced when cloudy or at end of day, and kept in labeled containers.

Never combine chemicals or store them in unlabeled bottles; mixing bleach with acids or ammonia releases toxic gas.

Electrical safety: equipment must be grounded, cords inspected for fraying, and outlets near water protected by GFCI devices.

Epidermal layers from deep to superficial: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms and soles only), corneum.

Keratinocytes produce keratin for barrier protection; melanocytes produce melanin; Langerhans cells are immune sentinels; Merkel cells are sensory receptors.

The dermis has a thin papillary layer (capillaries, touch receptors) and a thick reticular layer of dense collagen and elastin made by fibroblasts.

The hypodermis is adipose and loose connective tissue that provides insulation, shock absorption, and energy storage.

The acid mantle averages pH 4.5-5.5 and supports barrier lipids while limiting microbial growth.

Skin functions: protection, sensation, thermoregulation, excretion, secretion, absorption, and vitamin D synthesis.

Skin is thinnest on the eyelids and thickest on the palms and soles; average epidermal turnover is about 28 days.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum under androgen influence; eccrine glands produce sweat for cooling; apocrine glands are located in the axillae and groin.

Hair follicles and nail plates are epidermal appendages; arrector pili muscle contraction produces goosebumps.

Primary lesions include macule, papule, nodule, pustule, vesicle, bulla, wheal, cyst, and tumor; secondary lesions include scale, crust, fissure, excoriation, scar, keloid, and ulcer.

Contagious conditions requiring refusal and referral: herpes simplex, impetigo, warts, tinea infections, conjunctivitis, scabies, and pediculosis.

Acne vulgaris shows open and closed comedones, papules, and pustules; nodular or cystic acne is referred to a physician.

Rosacea presents as central-face erythema, flushing, and telangiectasia; avoid heat, harsh scrubs, and alcohol-heavy products.

Melasma (chloasma) is hormonally and UV-driven hyperpigmentation; vitiligo is depigmentation caused by melanocyte loss.

Fitzpatrick types I-II burn easily and tan little; types V-VI rarely burn; skin type guides peel strength and device settings.

Absolute contraindications: open or undiagnosed lesions, active infection, sunburn, recent surgery, and any mole that has changed in size, shape, or color.

Isotretinoin use within the past 6 months contraindicates waxing, chemical peels, and abrasion because skin is fragile and heals poorly.

Esthetic skin typing uses normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive, and distinguishes dry (lacking oil) from dehydrated (lacking water).

The pH scale runs 0-14: below 7 is acidic, 7 is neutral, above 7 is alkaline; skin sits near pH 4.5-5.5.

Surfactants lower surface tension to lift oil and debris; humectants bind water; emollients soften; occlusives reduce transepidermal water loss.

Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) are water-soluble surface exfoliants; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) is oil-soluble and works inside the pore.

Retinoids increase cell turnover and collagen production, cause photosensitivity, and are avoided in pregnancy.

Antioxidants such as L-ascorbic acid, vitamin E, and ferulic acid neutralize free radicals and stabilize one another in formula.

Physical sunscreens (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) block and scatter UV; chemical filters (avobenzone, oxybenzone) absorb UV and convert it to heat.

Any product containing water requires a preservative system such as parabens or phenoxyethanol to prevent microbial growth.

Oil-in-water emulsions are light and less occlusive; water-in-oil emulsions are richer and more water-resistant.

Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and ceramides support barrier function and hydration; patch test new products 24-48 hours before full use.

Standard sequence: consultation, cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, steam and extract, massage, mask, tone, moisturize, sun protection.

Massage strokes: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), vibration, and friction; all direct fluid toward lymph nodes.

Massage is contraindicated over active acne, inflammation, infection, recent surgery, and for clients with clotting or circulatory disorders.

Mechanical exfoliation uses scrubs, brushes, and dermaplaning; chemical exfoliation uses enzymes, AHAs, and BHAs.

Steam softens sebum and keratin; keep vapor roughly 12-18 inches from the face and avoid on rosacea, asthma, or claustrophobic clients.

Extraction follows softening: use gloved hands or a disinfected extractor with gentle pressure, and avoid inflamed pustules and nodules.

Mask selection: clay for oily or congested skin, gel for sensitive or dehydrated skin, cream for dry or mature skin, sheet masks for hydration.

Every facial ends with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, because exfoliated or treated skin is more UV-sensitive.

Document products used, skin observations, and home care recommendations for each service.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), telogen (rest); waxing is most effective on anagen hair.

Soft wax is spread with the direction of growth and removed against it with strips; hard wax is applied against growth and lifted off without strips.

Sugaring uses a sugar, lemon, and water paste removed at skin level; threading twists cotton thread to trap and lift hair.

Depilatories use thioglycolate at a highly alkaline pH near 12 to dissolve hair keratin; patch test and never apply to irritated skin.

Waxing contraindications: isotretinoin within 6 months, topical retinoids or AHAs within about a week, blood thinners, poor-healing diabetes, and moles over the treatment site.

Patch test 24-48 hours before a first wax, and never wax over sunburn, open lesions, varicose veins, or freshly exfoliated skin.

Superficial peels and microdermabrasion are esthetic-level services; medium and deep peels and lasers require medical supervision.

Dermaplaning uses a sterile blade to remove vellus hair and stratum corneum; contraindicated on active acne, rosacea flares, and bleeding disorders.

Aftercare: avoid heat, sun exposure, tight clothing, and further exfoliation for 24-48 hours after waxing.

Color theory: complementary colors neutralize each other, so green cancels redness, peach or orange cancels blue shadows, and yellow cancels purple.

Undertones are warm (yellow or peach), cool (pink or blue), or neutral; match foundation along the jawline in natural light.

Choose formula by skin type: oil-free and matte for oily skin, hydrating for dry skin, fragrance-free for sensitive skin.

Sanitation in makeup: scrape product with a spatula, use disposable applicators or freshly cleaned brushes, sharpen pencils, and never double-dip mascara.

Consultation documents include intake form, allergies, medications, prior services, informed consent, and service notes.

Makeup application is contraindicated over open or infected skin, conjunctivitis, active cold sores, or a known product allergy.

Service price must cover product cost, labor, overhead, and profit; cost per service is the basis for package and membership pricing.

Track retail-to-service ratio, rebook at checkout, and keep a written cancellation and no-show policy.

Store client records securely and keep them confidential; documentation supports follow-up and defends against liability claims.