MI Esthetician cheat sheet

Epidermis layers, outermost to innermost: stratum corneum, stratum lucidum (palms and soles only), stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, stratum basale; below the epidermis are the papillary and reticular dermis, then the subcutaneous layer (hypodermis).

The stratum basale is the mitotic layer; it holds melanocytes (melanin) and Merkel cells, and keratinocytes produced there migrate upward and keratinize in roughly 28 days.

Acid mantle: a thin film of sebum plus sweat with a pH of about 4.5–5.5 that suppresses bacteria and preserves barrier function.

Dermis components: collagen for strength, elastin for recoil, fibroblasts that build both, plus blood vessels, nerves, arrector pili muscles, sebaceous glands, and sudoriferous glands.

Six functions of skin: protection, absorption, secretion, excretion, sensation, and heat regulation.

Fitzpatrick scale I (always burns, never tans) through VI (deeply pigmented, never burns) predicts UV response and sets the intensity limit for peels, waxing, and light-based devices.

Primary lesions: macule (flat color change), papule (raised, no fluid), vesicle (small blister), bulla (large blister), pustule (contains pus), wheal (edematous, itchy), nodule (deep solid mass), cyst (sac of fluid or semisolid).

Contagious conditions contraindicate service: herpes simplex, verruca (HPV), tinea, impetigo, conjunctivitis, molluscum contagiosum, scabies, and pediculosis.

Melanoma warning signs use ABCDE - Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter over 6 mm, Evolving; basal cell carcinoma is the most common skin cancer and most often appears on sun-exposed areas.

Three levels of microbial control: sanitation reduces counts, disinfection destroys most microorganisms but not spores, sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores (autoclave).

Nonporous implements follow a fixed sequence: wash with detergent and water, rinse, dry completely, then fully immerse in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the full label contact time.

Porous items - cotton, gauze, wooden sticks, facial sponges, most files - are single-use and must be discarded after one client.

Quaternary ammonium compounds and phenolics are the common salon disinfectants; bleach solutions are mixed fresh per the manufacturer's dilution and discarded when spent.

Blood or body fluid spill: put on gloves, absorb with a disposable towel, clean the surface, then disinfect with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal hospital disinfectant and discard waste in a closed container.

Double dipping is prohibited; remove product with a clean spatula onto a clean surface, and label and date any secondary container.

Electrical safety: use UL-listed equipment on GFCI outlets, unplug by the plug rather than the cord, keep cords away from water, and remove frayed or damaged cords from service.

A Safety Data Sheet (SDS) must be on file for every chemical in the facility, and every container must stay labeled and stored away from heat.

Wash hands before and after every client, and wear gloves whenever contact with blood, fluid, or non-intact skin is possible.

Standard facial sequence: consultation and skin analysis, cleanse, exfoliate, tone, massage, mask, moisturize, sun protection.

Massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction, and vibration; direction and pressure follow the treatment goal and always respect contraindications.

Extractions occur only after softening with warm steam, using tissue-wrapped fingers or a comedone extractor, and are limited to pustules, milia, and comedones - never cysts or inflamed papules.

Chemical exfoliants: AHAs (glycolic, lactic) are water soluble and work on the surface; BHA (salicylic) is oil soluble and penetrates pores; lower pH means greater strength, and neutralization follows manufacturer instructions.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth, the best target for waxing), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting and shedding).

Waxing technique: apply wax in the direction of hair growth, remove the strip against the growth, hold skin taut and the strip parallel to the skin, and keep wax at a safe low temperature.

Waxing contraindications include isotretinoin (Accutane), recent retinoid or acid use, recent peels, diabetes, blood thinners, photosensitizing medications, sunburn, varicose veins, and moles.

Brow and lash tints require a patch test 24 to 48 hours before the service.

Makeup application: match foundation on the jawline in natural light, identify undertone (warm, cool, neutral), and use complementary colors on the color wheel to neutralize redness or discoloration.

Gross profit = service and retail revenue minus cost of goods sold; net profit = gross profit minus operating expenses such as rent, utilities, and payroll.

Keystone pricing sets retail at twice wholesale cost, a 100% markup; margin-based pricing uses retail = cost / (1 - desired margin).

Break-even units = fixed costs / (price per service - variable cost per service).

Client records should capture health history, consent, products and devices used, patch test results, and service dates, and must be stored confidentially.

Cancellation and no-show policies are most enforceable when given in writing at booking, supported by a deposit for long or high-demand services.

Inventory control uses a par level (reorder trigger), FIFO rotation, and tracked product usage per service to keep cash from sitting in stock.

Compensation models include hourly wage, commission as a percentage of service revenue, salary, and booth rent paid as a fixed weekly amount.

Marketing begins with a defined target market; retention from existing clients and referrals usually costs less than acquiring new clients.

In Michigan, esthetician licensure is administered by the Board of Cosmetology and Barbering within LARA (Department of Licensing and Regulatory Affairs).

A current license must be available for inspection at the work location, and only licensed individuals may perform esthetic services for compensation.

Unlicensed practice is a criminal offense carrying fines and can block future licensure.

Scope of practice: estheticians cleanse, treat, and beautify the skin, apply makeup, and remove hair by waxing or tweezing; diagnosing or treating disease is outside that scope and belongs to physicians.

LARA inspectors may enter and inspect a licensed facility; sanitation violations can result in fines, license suspension, or revocation.

Informed consent must be obtained and documented before service, and establishments typically require parental consent for minor clients.

Advertising and service claims must be truthful and not misleading; medical claims exceed the esthetic scope.

Only FDA-cleared or approved devices and professional products may be used, and each must be operated according to manufacturer instructions.