MO Cosmetology flashcards
MO Cosmetology · Build recall with a focused review session.
32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- pH of normal hair
- Hair and scalp are naturally acidic, about pH 4.5 to 5.5. Alkaline products swell the cuticle; acidic products contract it and increase shine.
- Disulfide bond
- A strong sulfur-to-sulfur bond between cysteine amino acids in the hair cortex. It gives hair its shape and strength and is broken by relaxers and permanent waves.
- Eumelanin
- The brown-black pigment found in hair and skin. Its amount and distribution determine how dark the hair appears and how much lift lightener must achieve.
- Anagen phase
- The active growth phase of the hair cycle, lasting two to six years. About 85 to 90 percent of scalp hair is in this phase at any time.
- Cationic surfactant
- A positively charged cleansing or conditioning molecule that bonds to negatively charged hair. It is the active ingredient in most cream conditioners and detanglers.
- Porosity
- The hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. High porosity absorbs quickly and loses moisture fast; low porosity resists moisture and needs heat to open the cuticle.
- Elasticity test
- A strand is stretched to check whether it returns to its original length. Healthy wet hair stretches about 50 percent; poor elasticity signals damage and limits chemical services.
- Patch test
- A small amount of color or lightener applied behind the ear or in the elbow crease 24 to 48 hours before service to detect an allergic reaction.
- Elevation
- The angle at which hair is held away from the head during cutting. Zero degrees builds weight, 45 degrees graduates, and 90 degrees creates uniform layers.
- Stationary guide
- A section of hair cut first and used as the fixed length reference for all remaining sections. It produces a solid or graduated form.
- Traveling guide
- A guide that moves with each new section, so each cut section becomes the reference for the next. It is used for layered and blended forms.
- Thermal iron safety limit
- Temperatures above about 450 degrees Fahrenheit (232 degrees Celsius) can scorch or bubble human hair. Test irons on tissue paper before use on a client.
- Thioglycolate
- The reducing agent in most permanent waves. It breaks disulfide bonds so hair can be reshaped around a rod, then a neutralizer rebuilds the bonds.
- Developer volume
- The concentration of hydrogen peroxide in hair color. Ten volume deposits only, 20 lifts one to two levels, 30 lifts two to three, and 40 lifts three to four.
- Law of color
- Primary colors are red, yellow, and blue; secondary colors are orange, green, and violet. Complementary colors sit opposite each other and neutralize unwanted tones.
- Strand test
- A preliminary test on a small section of the client's hair to predict processing time, color result, and reaction to a chemical product before the full service.
- Lunula
- The whitish half-moon at the base of the nail plate. It is the visible portion of the matrix, where new nail cells are produced.
- Onychomycosis
- A fungal infection of the nail plate that causes thickening, discoloration, and separation. Cosmetologists may not treat it and must refer the client to a physician.
- Paronychia
- Inflammation of the tissue around the nail, often bacterial, causing redness, swelling, and pain. It is a contraindication for nail services until treated.
- Nail shape choice
- Square, squoval, oval, round, and pointed shapes are matched to the natural nail and lifestyle. Square and squoval add strength; oval and round reduce breakage.
- Fitzpatrick scale
- A six-level classification of skin response to ultraviolet light. Types one and two burn easily and require higher sun protection and careful light-based treatments.
- Effleurage
- A light, gliding facial massage stroke applied in the direction of muscle fibers and lymph flow. It relaxes the client and aids product absorption.
- Comedone extraction
- Removal of a blackhead or whitehead after softening the skin with steam. Only non-inflamed lesions may be extracted; pustules and cysts are referred out.
- Waxing direction rule
- Wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it. Waxing is avoided over varicose veins, moles, and recently exfoliated or irritated skin.
- Disinfection
- The use of an EPA-registered hospital-grade product to destroy most pathogens on nonporous implements. Contact time follows the product label, often ten minutes.
- Porous implements
- Items such as emery boards, buffers, cotton, and wooden sticks that cannot be disinfected. They must be discarded after a single client use.
- Safety Data Sheet
- A document listing a product's hazards, handling, and first-aid information. It must be kept on file and accessible for every chemical in the salon.
- Handwashing standard
- Washing with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds is the most effective single measure for preventing the spread of infection in the salon.
- Missouri licensing exam
- Candidates complete a board-approved program, typically 1,500 clock hours, then pass written and practical exams administered for the Missouri State Board of Cosmetology and Barbering.
- Salon license requirement
- A salon must hold a current license and may employ only licensed individuals to perform services. License certificates must be posted on the premises.
- Biennial renewal
- Missouri cosmetology licenses are renewed every two years. The board sets fees and continuing education requirements and publishes them through the Division of Professional Registration.
- Scope of practice
- The services a licensee is legally permitted to perform. In Missouri, treating disease or practicing beyond the licensed scope can lead to discipline by the board.