MO Esthetician cheat sheet
MO Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety
Sanitize reduces microorganisms; disinfect kills most pathogens on nonporous surfaces; sterilize destroys all microorganisms including spores.
Disinfectant must remain visibly wet for the label contact time; wiping before contact time ends reduces pathogen kill.
Use an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with a tuberculocidal claim for blood or body-fluid spills.
Clean implements with soap and water before disinfecting because organic debris inactivates many disinfectants.
Porous items that contact skin, such as wax strips, cotton, and wooden applicators, cannot be disinfected and are single-use.
Handwashing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is required when hands are visibly soiled; sanitizer is not a substitute.
If an item cannot be cleaned and disinfected, then it must be discarded after one client.
Blood exposure: stop service, glove, clean the wound, disinfect the area, bag contaminated waste, and follow the exposure control plan.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin and Body Systems
Skin layers from outer to inner are epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue; the epidermis is avascular and the dermis contains vessels and nerves.
Epidermal strata in order are basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum on palms and soles, and corneum.
Keratinocytes move from the basal layer to the stratum corneum in about 28 days and then shed.
Melanocytes in the stratum basale produce melanin; ultraviolet exposure increases melanin production.
Collagen provides strength and elastin provides recoil; both are dermal proteins damaged by chronic ultraviolet exposure.
Sebaceous glands attach to hair follicles and secrete sebum; eccrine sweat glands cool the body; apocrine glands are in axillae and groin.
Acid mantle pH is about 4.5 to 5.5 and supports the skin barrier against bacteria and water loss.
Facial bones include frontal, zygomatic, maxilla, and mandible; muscles of expression include frontalis, orbicularis oculi, and orbicularis oris.
Skin Analysis, Skin Types, and Skin Disorders and Diseases
Fitzpatrick type I always burns and never tans; type VI is deeply pigmented and least likely to burn.
Skin type is classified as normal, dry, oily, combination, or sensitive; the T-zone often guides combination classification.
Open comedo is a widened follicle with oxidized sebum; closed comedo is a closed follicle with retained sebum.
Primary lesions include macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, and nodule; secondary lesions include scale, crust, scar, and excoriation.
Refer suspicious pigmented lesions showing asymmetry, border irregularity, color variation, diameter over 6 mm, or evolution.
Dehydration is lack of water and can occur in any skin type; dryness is lack of oil and is a skin type.
Do not extract inflamed, cystic, or unidentified lesions; refer severe or cystic acne to a dermatologist.
Sensitive skin reacts with erythema, stinging, or burning; choose fragrance-free products and patch test.
Client Consultation, Contraindications, and Documentation
Informed consent must be obtained and documented before service, including products, risks, and expected outcomes.
Medical history review includes pregnancy, diabetes, hypertension, autoimmune disease, blood thinners, retinoids, isotretinoin, and allergies.
Isotretinoin use contraindicates waxing and aggressive exfoliation during use and often for six months after.
Waxing contraindications include recent chemical peel, sunburn, active infection, retinoid use, and blood-thinning medication.
Patch test tints and lash adhesives 24 to 48 hours before the service and document the result.
SOAP notes record subjective, objective, assessment, and plan information for each visit.
If a client reports a new medication, allergy, or skin change, reassess contraindications before proceeding.
Retain client records according to Missouri board rules and make them available when required.
Facial Treatments, Facial Massage, and Product Selection
Facial sequence commonly includes cleanse, exfoliate, steam, extract, massage, mask, moisturize, and sunscreen.
Avoid steam with rosacea, asthma, or highly sensitive skin; keep steam at a comfortable distance and limit duration.
Extraction follows softening; use gentle pressure only on visible comedones and never force inflamed lesions.
Massage strokes include effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, and friction; avoid massage over active infection or inflammation.
Dry skin benefits from emollient and occlusive products; oily skin benefits from water-based, noncomedogenic products.
AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid are water-soluble; BHA salicylic acid is oil-soluble and suited to oily pores.
Clay masks absorb oil; gel masks hydrate; cream masks soothe; choose based on skin type and current condition.
Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is the final daytime facial product.
Hair Removal Services: Waxing, Tweezing, and Sugaring
Hair growth cycle: anagen active growth, catagen transition, telogen resting; waxing is most effective on anagen hairs.
Waxable hair length is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch; longer hair may be trimmed before waxing.
Apply soft wax in the direction of hair growth and remove the strip against hair growth while holding skin taut.
Hard wax is strip-free and useful on sensitive areas because it adheres to hair rather than skin.
Sugaring paste is applied against hair growth and removed with hair growth; it is water-soluble and cleanup uses water.
Tweezing is for isolated hairs; grasp the hair near the base and pull in the direction of growth.
Contraindications include isotretinoin, retinoids, recent peels, sunburn, varicose veins, moles, and active infection.
After waxing, avoid heat, sun, tight clothing, and irritants for 24 hours.
Makeup Application and Eyelash Services
Foundation undertone: warm has yellow or golden tones; cool has pink or blue tones; neutral is a balance.
Complementary colors neutralize: green cancels redness, yellow cancels purple, peach cancels blue, and lavender cancels yellow.
Mascara wands and lip applicators are single-use; never double-dip into shared product.
Lash extensions require isolation of one natural lash per extension and adhesive kept off the eyelid skin.
Patch test lash adhesive 24 to 48 hours before application and document the result.
Eyelash contraindications include blepharitis, conjunctivitis, styes, active eye infection, and recent eye surgery.
Sanitize pencils by sharpening; scrape cream products onto a clean palette with a spatula.
For photography, matte textures reduce shine and products with high SPF can cause flashback.
Missouri Cosmetology Law and Rules
Missouri esthetician license is issued by the Board of Cosmetology and Barber Examiners within the Division of Professional Registration.
A license is required to perform esthetics for compensation; practicing without a current license is unlawful.
Missouri esthetics licensure requires 750 clock hours in a board-approved curriculum, minimum age 17, and high school equivalency.
Candidates must pass the board-approved written and practical examinations before licensure.
A salon must hold a current establishment license; the license must be displayed and the board may inspect the premises.
Sanitation rules require cleaning and disinfecting implements, using single-use items, and maintaining clean towels and linens.
Missouri esthetician scope includes skin care, makeup application, and removal of superfluous hair by waxing, tweezing, or sugaring.
Licenses renew biennially; verify the expiration date on the license and the Division of Professional Registration portal.
Professional and Business Practices
OSHA Bloodborne Pathogens Standard requires an exposure control plan, training, protective equipment, and hepatitis B vaccination offer for at-risk workers.
Keep safety data sheets for all chemicals and label secondary containers with product name and hazard.
Store products according to manufacturer instructions; check expiration dates and use first-in, first-out inventory.
Professional liability insurance covers claims of injury or negligence from services; general liability covers premises.
Client records are confidential; obtain written consent before using client images or testimonials.
Service price must cover labor, product cost, overhead, and profit; retail pricing typically uses a markup over wholesale.
Business structures include sole proprietorship, partnership, limited liability company, and corporation; each has different liability and tax rules.
If a client refuses consent or cannot provide needed health information, do not perform the service.