MO Esthetician study materials
MO Esthetician study resources

MO Esthetician cheat sheet

MO Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.

Quick reference

Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety

  • Sanitize reduces microorganisms; disinfect kills most pathogens on nonporous surfaces; sterilize destroys all microorganisms including spores.

  • Disinfectant must remain visibly wet for the label contact time; wiping before contact time ends reduces pathogen kill.

  • Use an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with a tuberculocidal claim for blood or body-fluid spills.

  • Clean implements with soap and water before disinfecting because organic debris inactivates many disinfectants.

  • Porous items that contact skin, such as wax strips, cotton, and wooden applicators, cannot be disinfected and are single-use.

  • Handwashing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is required when hands are visibly soiled; sanitizer is not a substitute.

  • If an item cannot be cleaned and disinfected, then it must be discarded after one client.

  • Blood exposure: stop service, glove, clean the wound, disinfect the area, bag contaminated waste, and follow the exposure control plan.

Quick reference

Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin and Body Systems

  • Skin layers from outer to inner are epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue; the epidermis is avascular and the dermis contains vessels and nerves.

  • Epidermal strata in order are basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum on palms and soles, and corneum.

  • Keratinocytes move from the basal layer to the stratum corneum in about 28 days and then shed.

  • Melanocytes in the stratum basale produce melanin; ultraviolet exposure increases melanin production.

  • Collagen provides strength and elastin provides recoil; both are dermal proteins damaged by chronic ultraviolet exposure.

  • Sebaceous glands attach to hair follicles and secrete sebum; eccrine sweat glands cool the body; apocrine glands are in axillae and groin.

  • Acid mantle pH is about 4.5 to 5.5 and supports the skin barrier against bacteria and water loss.

  • Facial bones include frontal, zygomatic, maxilla, and mandible; muscles of expression include frontalis, orbicularis oculi, and orbicularis oris.

Quick reference

Skin Analysis, Skin Types, and Skin Disorders and Diseases

  • Fitzpatrick type I always burns and never tans; type VI is deeply pigmented and least likely to burn.

  • Skin type is classified as normal, dry, oily, combination, or sensitive; the T-zone often guides combination classification.

  • Open comedo is a widened follicle with oxidized sebum; closed comedo is a closed follicle with retained sebum.

  • Primary lesions include macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, and nodule; secondary lesions include scale, crust, scar, and excoriation.

  • Refer suspicious pigmented lesions showing asymmetry, border irregularity, color variation, diameter over 6 mm, or evolution.

  • Dehydration is lack of water and can occur in any skin type; dryness is lack of oil and is a skin type.

  • Do not extract inflamed, cystic, or unidentified lesions; refer severe or cystic acne to a dermatologist.

  • Sensitive skin reacts with erythema, stinging, or burning; choose fragrance-free products and patch test.

Quick reference

Client Consultation, Contraindications, and Documentation

  • Informed consent must be obtained and documented before service, including products, risks, and expected outcomes.

  • Medical history review includes pregnancy, diabetes, hypertension, autoimmune disease, blood thinners, retinoids, isotretinoin, and allergies.

  • Isotretinoin use contraindicates waxing and aggressive exfoliation during use and often for six months after.

  • Waxing contraindications include recent chemical peel, sunburn, active infection, retinoid use, and blood-thinning medication.

  • Patch test tints and lash adhesives 24 to 48 hours before the service and document the result.

  • SOAP notes record subjective, objective, assessment, and plan information for each visit.

  • If a client reports a new medication, allergy, or skin change, reassess contraindications before proceeding.

  • Retain client records according to Missouri board rules and make them available when required.

Quick reference

Facial Treatments, Facial Massage, and Product Selection

  • Facial sequence commonly includes cleanse, exfoliate, steam, extract, massage, mask, moisturize, and sunscreen.

  • Avoid steam with rosacea, asthma, or highly sensitive skin; keep steam at a comfortable distance and limit duration.

  • Extraction follows softening; use gentle pressure only on visible comedones and never force inflamed lesions.

  • Massage strokes include effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, and friction; avoid massage over active infection or inflammation.

  • Dry skin benefits from emollient and occlusive products; oily skin benefits from water-based, noncomedogenic products.

  • AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid are water-soluble; BHA salicylic acid is oil-soluble and suited to oily pores.

  • Clay masks absorb oil; gel masks hydrate; cream masks soothe; choose based on skin type and current condition.

  • Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is the final daytime facial product.

Quick reference

Hair Removal Services: Waxing, Tweezing, and Sugaring

  • Hair growth cycle: anagen active growth, catagen transition, telogen resting; waxing is most effective on anagen hairs.

  • Waxable hair length is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch; longer hair may be trimmed before waxing.

  • Apply soft wax in the direction of hair growth and remove the strip against hair growth while holding skin taut.

  • Hard wax is strip-free and useful on sensitive areas because it adheres to hair rather than skin.

  • Sugaring paste is applied against hair growth and removed with hair growth; it is water-soluble and cleanup uses water.

  • Tweezing is for isolated hairs; grasp the hair near the base and pull in the direction of growth.

  • Contraindications include isotretinoin, retinoids, recent peels, sunburn, varicose veins, moles, and active infection.

  • After waxing, avoid heat, sun, tight clothing, and irritants for 24 hours.

Quick reference

Makeup Application and Eyelash Services

  • Foundation undertone: warm has yellow or golden tones; cool has pink or blue tones; neutral is a balance.

  • Complementary colors neutralize: green cancels redness, yellow cancels purple, peach cancels blue, and lavender cancels yellow.

  • Mascara wands and lip applicators are single-use; never double-dip into shared product.

  • Lash extensions require isolation of one natural lash per extension and adhesive kept off the eyelid skin.

  • Patch test lash adhesive 24 to 48 hours before application and document the result.

  • Eyelash contraindications include blepharitis, conjunctivitis, styes, active eye infection, and recent eye surgery.

  • Sanitize pencils by sharpening; scrape cream products onto a clean palette with a spatula.

  • For photography, matte textures reduce shine and products with high SPF can cause flashback.

Quick reference

Missouri Cosmetology Law and Rules

  • Missouri esthetician license is issued by the Board of Cosmetology and Barber Examiners within the Division of Professional Registration.

  • A license is required to perform esthetics for compensation; practicing without a current license is unlawful.

  • Missouri esthetics licensure requires 750 clock hours in a board-approved curriculum, minimum age 17, and high school equivalency.

  • Candidates must pass the board-approved written and practical examinations before licensure.

  • A salon must hold a current establishment license; the license must be displayed and the board may inspect the premises.

  • Sanitation rules require cleaning and disinfecting implements, using single-use items, and maintaining clean towels and linens.

  • Missouri esthetician scope includes skin care, makeup application, and removal of superfluous hair by waxing, tweezing, or sugaring.

  • Licenses renew biennially; verify the expiration date on the license and the Division of Professional Registration portal.

Quick reference

Professional and Business Practices

  • OSHA Bloodborne Pathogens Standard requires an exposure control plan, training, protective equipment, and hepatitis B vaccination offer for at-risk workers.

  • Keep safety data sheets for all chemicals and label secondary containers with product name and hazard.

  • Store products according to manufacturer instructions; check expiration dates and use first-in, first-out inventory.

  • Professional liability insurance covers claims of injury or negligence from services; general liability covers premises.

  • Client records are confidential; obtain written consent before using client images or testimonials.

  • Service price must cover labor, product cost, overhead, and profit; retail pricing typically uses a markup over wholesale.

  • Business structures include sole proprietorship, partnership, limited liability company, and corporation; each has different liability and tax rules.

  • If a client refuses consent or cannot provide needed health information, do not perform the service.