MO Nail Technician cheat sheet
MO Nail Technician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Infection Control and Sanitation
Cleaning removes visible debris; disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.
Use an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant at the label dilution and wet all surfaces for the full label contact time.
Porous or absorbent items such as files, buffers, wooden sticks, cotton, and porous nail forms cannot be disinfected and are discarded after one client.
Before disinfection, implements are washed with soap and water, rinsed, and dried; organic matter reduces disinfectant effectiveness.
Hand hygiene uses soap and water for at least 20 seconds; alcohol-based sanitizer is used only when hands are not visibly soiled.
Blood or body-fluid exposure: stop the service, put on gloves, clean the area, apply antiseptic and a bandage, then disinfect contaminated tools and surfaces.
Disinfected implements are stored in a clean, covered container; clean and dirty implements are never stored together.
Do not double-dip into product; remove product with a clean spatula or disinfected scoop, and discard contaminated product.
Manicuring and Pedicuring
Natural nail filing uses a fine-grit file with gentle strokes from corner toward center; sawing back and forth increases splitting.
Cuticle softener and a wooden or plastic pusher are used to push back the eponychium; nippers cut only loose hangnails or dead tissue.
A pedicure basin is drained, cleaned, and disinfected after every client at the label contact time, and a new liner is used each time.
Soaking softens the nail plate; limit soaking to about 5 to 10 minutes and dry thoroughly before polish or enhancement.
Nail shapes: square has a straight free edge; oval and round follow the fingertip; squoval combines a square edge with rounded corners.
Massage strokes include effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), and tapotement (tapping); avoid inflamed, bruised, or varicose areas.
Do not perform pedicure services on open sores, active fungal infection, or severe dermatitis; refer the client for medical evaluation.
Polish application: thin base coat, two thin color coats, and top coat; thick coats wrinkle and dry unevenly.
Artificial Nail Enhancements
Ethyl methacrylate (EMA) is the standard monomer for cosmetic acrylics; methyl methacrylate (MMA) is not intended for nail enhancements.
Acrylic bead ratio: too wet causes shrinkage and skin exposure; too dry causes brittle, lifting product; aim for a saturated, workable bead.
Keep acrylic, gel, and glue off the skin and cuticle; uncured product on skin increases risk of allergic contact dermatitis.
Gel products cure only under a compatible UV or LED lamp for the manufacturer's stated time; test lamps and replace bulbs as directed.
Nail tips are sized to fit sidewall to sidewall, blended at the seam, and attached without air bubbles or excess glue.
Fill or rebalance enhancements every 2 to 3 weeks or sooner if lifting, cracking, or visible growth stress occurs.
Remove enhancements by soaking in acetone per manufacturer directions; never force, pry, or drill into the natural nail plate.
Refer clients with active fungal infection, open lesions, or unhealed nail trauma before applying enhancements.
Nail Anatomy and Disorders
Nail plate: hard keratin structure; nail bed: skin under the plate; matrix: growth area at the proximal base; free edge: portion beyond the fingertip.
Eponychium is the living skin at the proximal nail fold; cuticle is the dead tissue seal on the nail plate; hyponychium is the seal under the free edge.
The matrix produces nail plate cells; damage to the matrix can cause permanent ridges, splitting, or nail loss.
Average fingernail growth is about 3 to 4 mm per month; toenails grow more slowly, about 1 mm per month.
Beau's lines are transverse depressions from interrupted matrix growth; koilonychia is spooning; pitting is associated with psoriasis.
Onychomycosis causes thickening, discoloration, and separation; paronychia is inflammation or infection of tissue around the nail.
A new dark band or streak (melanonychia) or a changing pigmented lesion is referred to a physician rather than covered with product.
Nail technicians do not diagnose or treat nail disease; abnormal findings are documented and referred.
Safety, Chemicals, and Equipment
Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for every chemical product must be accessible; they list hazards, first aid, storage, and disposal.
Use local exhaust or ventilation when mixing monomers, sprays, or solvents; never mix chemicals unless the manufacturer instructs it.
Store flammable liquids in closed, labeled containers in a cool area away from heat, sparks, and open flames.
Electrical equipment must be grounded or GFCI-protected, cords inspected for damage, and tools kept away from water.
Ergonomic setup: adjust chair and table height, support the wrist, keep shoulders relaxed, and take breaks to reduce strain.
Broken glass, blades, and other sharps go into a rigid puncture-resistant sharps container, not regular trash.
Chemical spills are contained, absorbed, ventilated, and cleaned up according to the SDS; contaminated materials are disposed of properly.
Disinfect or sterilize equipment according to manufacturer instructions; autoclave only items labeled autoclavable.
Missouri Laws, Rules, and Regulations
The Missouri Board of Cosmetology and Barbering, under the Division of Professional Registration, regulates nail technician licensure and salon practice.
A current Missouri license is required to perform nail services for compensation; practicing without a license is prohibited.
Missouri nail technician training is completed in an approved program before examination and licensure.
Licensees must display or make available their license as required and work only within the licensed scope of practice.
Salons and schools are subject to board sanitation rules, including cleaning and disinfecting implements between clients.
Nail technicians may not diagnose or treat disease, prescribe medication, or perform medical procedures.
Board rules require single-use items to be discarded and reusable implements to be cleaned and disinfected.
Violations of Missouri cosmetology laws or board sanitation rules can result in fines, probation, suspension, or license revocation.
Client Consultation and Communication
Health history includes allergies (acrylates, nickel, latex), medications, skin disease, diabetes, circulatory problems, and prior reactions.
Informed consent documents the service, products, risks, aftercare, and the client's permission before starting.
A patch test is used when product history or manufacturer directions indicate allergy risk; a positive reaction means no service with that product.
Contraindications such as open lesions, fungal infection, severe dermatitis, or recent hand surgery require referral, not service.
Active listening and open-ended questions identify the client's goals, lifestyle, and maintenance preferences.
Nail technicians do not diagnose; they describe observations and recommend medical evaluation when findings are abnormal.
Record products used, service date, and any reaction; documentation supports continuity and helps identify sensitivities.
Explain home care and rebooking interval so the client can maintain the service and recognize problems.
Skin and Hand/Arm Anatomy
Skin layers from outer to inner: epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous tissue; the epidermis is avascular and the dermis contains vessels and nerves.
Epidermal layers from deep to superficial: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms and soles), corneum.
The dermis contains collagen and elastin fibers, blood vessels, lymphatics, nerves, sebaceous glands, and sweat glands.
Hand bones: eight carpals (wrist), five metacarpals (palm), and fourteen phalanges (fingers).
Flexor muscles close the fingers and extensor muscles open them; tendons attach these muscles to bones.
The radial and ulnar arteries supply the hand; the median, ulnar, and radial nerves provide sensation and motor control.
Lymph vessels drain the hand and arm toward lymph nodes; signs of infection include redness, warmth, swelling, and pain.
Skin functions include protection, sensation, thermoregulation, excretion, and vitamin D synthesis.