Hair Care, Treatments, and Scalp Conditions
Analyzing hair before you treat
Assess texture (fine to coarse), density, porosity (ability to absorb moisture), elasticity (stretch and return), and scalp condition. Low porosity resists moisture and can look product-heavy; high porosity is dry and fragile. Elasticity that fails the stretch test signals damage - avoid strong chemicals.
Shampoos and conditioners
Shampoos are built on surfactants, and pH matters. Acid-balanced and lower-pH shampoos suit color-treated and dry hair; clarifying shampoos remove buildup but strip color. Conditioners work on three levels: surface (temporary), slightly penetrating (body), and protein/repairing. Protein treatments fill gaps in the cortex, but too much protein makes hair brittle, so alternate with moisture.
Scalp conditions
Know what you may treat and what you must refer. Dandruff (pityriasis) and dry scalp respond to medicated shampoos. Ringworm (tinea), lice, folliculitis with pus, and alopecia areata are medical conditions - refer to a physician and do not perform chemical services.
Worked example
A client with highlighted hair and a dry, flaky scalp asks for a clarifying shampoo. Clarifying shampoo will accelerate color fading, and a flaky, possibly irritated scalp should not receive strong surfactants. Recommend an acid-balanced, moisturizing shampoo and a scalp consultation instead.
Traps
Diagnosing a scalp disease. Assuming dandruff is contagious. Applying protein to hair already brittle from too much protein. Brushing wet, fragile hair aggressively.