Haircutting and Styling
Lines and angles
A section is the subsection of hair you work with; a parting is the line that divides it. Elevation (projection) is the angle at which hair is held away from the head: 0° builds a solid form with weight at the perimeter; 45° creates a graduated, stacked effect; 90° produces uniform layers; 180° removes weight and creates long layers. Distribution is the direction hair is combed relative to the section; overdirection shifts weight.
Tools and techniques
Shears, clippers, razors, and texturizing shears each cut differently. Razors create soft, tapered ends but should not be used on curly or fragile hair. Keep shears adjusted and oiled, and never cut with dull or nicked blades. Blunt cutting creates a strong line; point cutting softens; notching and slicing remove bulk.
Styling
Blow-drying sets the hair in the direction of the finished style. Thermal irons should be tested on paper and used only on dry hair. Roller placement - on-base, half-base, off-base - controls volume. Pin curls form a circle, stem, and base; molding shapes the hair with the fingers.
Worked example
A client with fine, straight hair wants volume at the crown. Select a 90° uniform layer in the crown with off-base roller placement: 90° removes interior weight while off-base placement lifts the root without creating a hard ridge.
Traps
Confusing 45° and 90° results. Overdirecting unintentionally. Using a razor on curly hair. Inconsistent tension, which creates uneven lines. Skipping the neck strip and clean cape between clients.