MS Esthetician cheat sheet
MS Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Mississippi Cosmetology Law, Board Rules, and Regulations
The Mississippi State Board of Cosmetology regulates estheticians, cosmetology schools, and salons under the Mississippi Code of 1972, Title 73, Chapter 7, and the Board’s administrative rules.
An esthetician license requires completion of a Board-approved esthetics program (minimum 600 hours) and passing both a written and practical examination.
Licenses must be renewed biennially by the last day of the licensee’s birth month in even or odd years, depending on the license number; late renewal requires a fee and may require reinstatement.
Salon licenses are required for any establishment offering esthetic services; the salon must have a designated licensed manager and must pass Board inspection.
The Board may inspect salons and schools without prior notice during business hours; inspectors check sanitation, licensing, and compliance with rules.
Unlicensed practice is a misdemeanor punishable by fines and/or imprisonment; aiding unlicensed practice is also a violation.
Continuing education is not currently required for Mississippi estheticians, but licensees must stay informed of rule changes.
Advertising must include the salon’s license number and may not use false or misleading claims; price lists must be available upon request.
The Board has authority to deny, suspend, or revoke a license for violations including unsanitary practices, fraud, or impairment.
Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safe Work Practices
Pathogens include bacteria, viruses, fungi, and parasites; they are transmitted via direct contact, indirect contact, airborne particles, or vectors.
The chain of infection has six links: pathogen, reservoir, portal of exit, mode of transmission, portal of entry, and susceptible host; breaking any link prevents infection.
Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on nonporous surfaces but does not kill spores; sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.
EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectants must be used according to label instructions for contact time; quats, phenols, and bleach are common active ingredients.
Single-use items (e.g., spatulas, cotton swabs, waxing strips) must be discarded after one client and never reused.
Tools that contact skin or blood (e.g., tweezers, comedone extractors) must be cleaned and then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant.
Hand washing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client; alcohol-based sanitizers are an alternative when hands are not visibly soiled.
Blood and body fluid spills must be cleaned with gloves, then disinfected with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal disinfectant; contaminated waste must be disposed of in a sealed bag.
Personal protective equipment (PPE) includes gloves, masks, and eye protection; gloves must be changed between clients and when torn.
Safety practices include proper ventilation, safe storage of chemicals, and following manufacturer’s Safety Data Sheets (SDS).
Skin Anatomy, Physiology, and Histology
The skin has three main layers: epidermis (outermost), dermis (middle), and subcutaneous layer (hypodermis).
The epidermis consists of five strata: corneum, lucidum (only on palms and soles), granulosum, spinosum, and basale (germinativum).
Keratinocytes are the primary cells of the epidermis; they produce keratin and migrate upward, eventually shedding as corneocytes.
Melanocytes in the stratum basale produce melanin, which protects against UV radiation and determines skin color.
The dermis contains collagen and elastin fibers, blood vessels, nerves, sweat glands, sebaceous glands, and hair follicles.
The subcutaneous layer consists of adipose tissue and loose connective tissue; it insulates and cushions the body.
Skin functions include protection, sensation, thermoregulation, excretion, secretion, and vitamin D synthesis.
The acid mantle (pH 4.5–5.5) is a protective film of sebum and sweat that inhibits bacterial growth and maintains skin barrier.
Skin aging involves thinning of the epidermis, decreased collagen and elastin, and reduced sebum production.
Skin Analysis, Skin Types, and Skin Conditions
Skin types are classified as normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; analysis considers sebum production, hydration, pore size, and reactivity.
Skin conditions include dehydration, acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, aging, and sensitivities; these are not skin types but temporary or chronic states.
The Fitzpatrick scale classifies skin phototypes I–VI based on response to UV exposure and is used to assess risk of hyperpigmentation and burning.
Analysis techniques include visual inspection, palpation, Wood’s lamp (UV light) to detect dehydration, sun damage, and bacterial presence, and magnification lamp.
Wood’s lamp colors: blue-white indicates normal hydration; yellow indicates oily skin; violet/purple indicates dehydration; brown indicates hyperpigmentation; coral-pink indicates acne bacteria.
T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) is typically oilier; cheeks may be drier in combination skin.
Oily skin has enlarged pores, shine, and may be prone to comedones and acne; dry skin has small pores, flakiness, and may feel tight.
Sensitive skin reacts with redness, stinging, or itching to products; patch testing and gentle products are recommended.
Contraindications for facial treatments include active herpes, open lesions, sunburn, recent chemical peel, and certain medical conditions.
Client Consultation, Contraindications, and Documentation
A consultation includes health history, medications, allergies, skin analysis, and discussion of client goals and expectations.
Contraindications are conditions that prohibit a treatment; absolute contraindications (e.g., active infection) require rescheduling; relative contraindications (e.g., pregnancy) require modification or consent.
Common contraindications for waxing: use of isotretinoin (Accutane) within 6–12 months, recent chemical peel, sunburn, active herpes, and diabetes (relative).
Informed consent must be obtained before treatment; it documents that the client understands risks, benefits, and alternatives.
Client records must be kept confidential and include treatment details, products used, and any adverse reactions.
Documentation should be objective, dated, and signed by the client and esthetician; it is a legal record.
Medical conditions requiring physician clearance include heart conditions, cancer, epilepsy, and severe allergies.
Pregnancy: avoid essential oils, electrical treatments, and certain chemicals; use gentle products and obtain physician approval if unsure.
Allergies: perform patch test 24–48 hours before treatment for new products, especially dyes and adhesives.
Facial Treatments, Cleansing, Exfoliation, and Massage
Basic facial steps: consultation, cleansing, skin analysis, exfoliation, extraction (if needed), massage, mask, toner, moisturizer, sunscreen.
Cleansing removes dirt, oil, and makeup; use appropriate cleanser for skin type (gel for oily, cream for dry).
Exfoliation removes dead skin cells; mechanical (scrubs, brushes) and chemical (AHAs, BHAs, enzymes).
AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) examples: glycolic (sugarcane), lactic (milk), malic (apples), tartaric (grapes), citric (citrus).
BHA (beta hydroxy acid) example: salicylic acid; it is oil-soluble and penetrates pores, good for acne.
Extractions should be performed with sterile tools and only on comedones; avoid inflamed pustules.
Facial massage benefits: increases circulation, relaxes muscles, improves product absorption; movements include effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, and friction.
Massage contraindications: active acne, inflammation, recent surgery, thrombosis, and severe high blood pressure.
Mask types: clay (absorb oil), cream (hydrate), gel (soothe), peel-off (remove dead cells); leave on per manufacturer’s directions.
Sunscreen with SPF 30+ is essential after exfoliation and during day; UVA/UVB protection prevents photoaging.
Hair Removal: Waxing, Sugaring, and Threading
Waxing removes hair from the follicle; hard wax is applied thick and removed without strips, good for sensitive areas; soft wax requires strips.
Wax temperature should be between 125°F and 135°F (52°C–57°C) to avoid burns; test on inner wrist.
Hair should be at least 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) long for waxing; if longer, trim first.
Always apply wax in direction of hair growth and remove in opposite direction; hold skin taut.
Sugaring uses a paste of sugar, lemon juice, and water; it is water-soluble and less irritating; applied and removed in same direction? Actually sugaring is applied against hair growth and removed in direction of growth.
Threading uses cotton thread twisted to catch hair; it is precise and good for eyebrows and upper lip.
Contraindications for waxing/sugaring/threading: isotretinoin use, recent chemical peel, sunburn, active herpes, moles (avoid), varicose veins, diabetes (relative).
Post-care: apply soothing lotion, avoid sun, heat, and tight clothing for 24 hours; no exfoliation for 24–48 hours.
Sanitation: never double-dip into wax; use disposable spatulas and strips; disinfect tweezers and thread (if not single-use).
Makeup Application and Lash and Brow Services
Makeup application follows skin prep: cleanse, tone, moisturize, prime; then foundation, concealer, powder, blush, eye makeup, lip color.
Foundation selection: match to jawline in natural light; test three shades; consider undertone (warm, cool, neutral).
Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, diamond, oblong) guide contouring and highlighting placement.
Eyelash enhancements include mascara, strip lashes, individual lashes, and extensions; extensions require certified training and patch test for adhesive.
Eyelash extension adhesive contains cyanoacrylate; patch test 24–48 hours prior; keep away from eyes and use proper ventilation.
Eyebrow services: shaping by waxing, tweezing, threading, or trimming; tinting with vegetable or chemical dyes (patch test required).
Brow mapping uses three points: start at inner corner, arch at outer iris, end at outer corner.
Sanitation for makeup: never share mascara or lip products; use disposable applicators; sharpen pencils before each use; spray palettes with alcohol.
Contraindications for lash/brow services: eye infections, allergies to adhesive, recent eye surgery, and skin conditions around eyes.
Chemistry, Product Ingredients, and Product Selection
pH scale measures acidity/alkalinity (0–14); skin pH is 4.5–5.5; products should be close to skin pH for barrier health.
Surfactants are cleansing agents that attract both water and oil; examples: sodium lauryl sulfate (harsh), cocamidopropyl betaine (gentle).
Emollients soften and smooth skin (e.g., oils, fatty acids); humectants attract water (e.g., glycerin, hyaluronic acid); occlusives prevent water loss (e.g., petrolatum, silicones).
Antioxidants (vitamins C, E, green tea) neutralize free radicals; vitamin C also brightens and boosts collagen.
Preservatives prevent microbial growth; common ones: parabens, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate; products with water require preservatives.
Fragrances and dyes are common allergens; choose fragrance-free for sensitive skin.
Product selection based on skin type: oily skin-gel cleansers, oil-free moisturizers; dry skin-cream cleansers, rich moisturizers; sensitive-fragrance-free, minimal ingredients.
Ingredients to avoid for acne-prone: comedogenic ingredients like coconut oil, isopropyl myristate, and some silicones.
Sunscreens: physical (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) block UV; chemical (avobenzone, oxybenzone) absorb UV; SPF indicates UVB protection; broad-spectrum indicates UVA+UVB.
Professional Ethics, Business Practices, and Career Skills
Ethics include honesty, integrity, confidentiality, and respect for clients and colleagues; never diagnose or prescribe.
Scope of practice: estheticians may perform skin care treatments, makeup, hair removal, and lash/brow services; they may not diagnose medical conditions or perform invasive procedures.
Business practices: maintain proper licensing, insurance, and tax records; set prices based on costs and competition; keep financial records.
Client communication: use active listening, clear language, and manage expectations; avoid promising unrealistic results.
Career skills: continuing education, networking, social media professionalism, and building a client base through referrals.
Resume and portfolio: highlight skills, certifications, and before/after photos (with consent).
Professional image: maintain personal hygiene, dress code, and a clean workspace; punctuality and reliability build trust.
Legal considerations: liability insurance, informed consent, and accurate record-keeping protect both client and esthetician.
Social media: obtain written consent before posting client photos; maintain client confidentiality online.