Hair Removal: Waxing, Sugaring, and Threading
Hair growth and method choice
Hair removal works best in anagen, when the hair is attached to the follicle. Waxing, sugaring, and threading all remove hair at or near the surface; none permanently destroys the follicle. Wax is applied in the direction of growth and removed against it. Sugaring uses a sugar paste and can be applied against growth and removed with growth. Threading traps hairs in a cotton thread and lifts them out.
Safety essentials
- Patch test wax or tint where indicated and ask about retinoids, isotretinoin, recent peels, laser, sunburn, and varicose veins.
- Check wax temperature on your wrist and on a small area. Hot wax burns.
- Never double-dip a spatula. Use disposable sticks and fresh wax.
- Hold skin taut and remove quickly, parallel to the skin.
- Post-care: soothe, avoid heat, tight clothing, and sun. Recommend gentle exfoliation later to reduce ingrown hairs.
Worked example
A client on tretinoin wants a brow wax. Reasoning: retinoids compromise the stratum corneum, so wax can remove skin and cause erosions. The esthetician should decline waxing, explain why, and offer threading or tweezing if appropriate after assessing for irritation. Document the medication and the alternative.
Traps
- Waxing over a mole or broken skin without assessment.
- Using the same wax pot for everyone without following sanitation rules.
- Treating redness after waxing as normal when it is a burn.
- Ignoring that pregnancy can increase sensitivity.
- Promising permanent hair reduction.