Hair Coloring and Lightening
Hair Coloring and Lightening
This domain tests color theory, developer selection, patch and strand testing, and safe lightening.
Core rules
- The color wheel predicts neutralization: yellow cancels violet, orange cancels blue, red cancels green.
- Hair levels run 1, black, to 10, lightest blonde; identify the client's natural level and contributing pigment.
- Developer volume controls lift; higher volume is not automatically better, especially on the scalp.
- Patch test 24 to 48 hours before color; strand test to predict processing and result.
- Lightener continues to process; remove before the desired stage and tone.
- Apply color to the darkest area first when the formula is the same, unless the manufacturer directs otherwise.
Worked example
A level 5 client wants a level 7 warm brown. Select a level 7 permanent color with 20 volume, because the target is two levels lighter and the existing warmth is acceptable. If the target were cool, pre-lighten and tone, or add a blue-based additive to control orange.
Traps
Ignoring contributing pigment; overlapping lightener; using 40 volume on the scalp; skipping the patch test; and toning too dark.