Chemical Texture Services (Permanent Waving and Relaxing)
Chemical Texture Services (Permanent Waving and Relaxing)
This domain tests relaxer and perm chemistry, processing, neutralization, and hair condition assessment.
Core rules
- Relaxers break disulfide bonds; perms reduce and then neutralize to reform bonds. Both require strand tests and porosity and elasticity checks.
- Virgin relaxer application starts at the scalp and works to the ends; a retouch applies only to new growth.
- Protect previously relaxed hair with conditioner or barrier; do not overlap relaxer.
- Neutralizing shampoo must remain on the hair for the manufacturer's time; test with pH paper if required.
- Do not perm over a fresh relaxer or relax over a fresh perm; wait the recommended interval.
Worked example
A client is eight weeks post-relaxer with one inch of new growth. Apply protective cream to the relaxed hair, apply relaxer to new growth only, process while checking, rinse, then neutralize. Shampoo with neutralizing shampoo until the lather stays pink or white per the indicator, then condition.
Traps
Overlapping relaxer; under-neutralizing; perming hair with high porosity; and using heat during processing.