MS Natural Hair Stylist cheat sheet

The Mississippi State Board of Cosmetology regulates cosmetologists, natural hair stylists, braiders, estheticians, nail technicians, and salon/school licenses under Miss. Code Ann. Title 73, Chapter 7.

A natural hair stylist license authorizes scalp care, shampooing, conditioning, braiding, twisting, locking, extensions, and thermal/chemical services for natural hair; it does not authorize haircutting with shears or razors unless separately licensed.

Licenses renew on a biennial cycle; renewal requires the board-specified continuing education hours and a fee paid before the expiration date, or a late fee applies.

Salon licenses are issued per physical location and are not transferable; a change of address, ownership, or salon name requires a new application or amendment to the board.

A licensed practitioner must display the current license in public view at the workstation or salon entrance; practicing on an expired license is a violation subject to fine.

Sanitation inspections may be conducted without prior notice; repeated critical violations can result in probation, suspension, or revocation after an administrative hearing.

Only licensed practitioners may perform services for compensation; a student enrolled in a board-approved school may practice only on the public under direct instructor supervision.

Client records, including chemical service release forms, must be retained per board rule and made available to the board or its inspector on request.

Two-tier rule: clean with soap/detergent and water first, then disinfect with an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant mixed and used at the label dilution and contact time.

Implements that contact blood or body fluids, or that are single-use (razors, needles, cotton, wooden sticks), are discarded in a covered waste container and never reused.

Non-porous tools (combs, clips, shears, bowls) require immersion or saturation with disinfectant after each client; porous items that cannot be disinfected are single-use only.

Hands are washed with soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds before and after each client and after glove removal; hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Blood exposure protocol: stop service, put on gloves, clean the wound, apply antiseptic and bandage, then disinfect all contaminated tools and surfaces before continuing.

Standard Precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious regardless of a client's appearance or disclosed health status.

Wet disinfected implements must be dried and stored in a clean, closed container; drawers and containers are cleaned and disinfected on a documented schedule.

Quaternary ammonium, phenolic, and bleach solutions are not interchangeable: follow the manufacturer's label for dilution, contact time, and material compatibility.

Hair shaft layers from outside in: cuticle (protective overlapping scales), cortex (bulk, melanin, and disulfide bonds), medulla (central core, absent in fine hair).

The follicle is a pocket in the dermis; the hair bulb at its base holds the matrix, which receives nutrients from the dermal papilla capillary loop.

Growth cycle: anagen (active growth, years), catagen (transition, weeks), telogen (rest, about three months), then exogen shedding; roughly 50-100 scalp hairs shed daily is normal.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum into the follicle; eccrine sweat glands open onto the skin surface and are not part of the follicle.

Scalp layers: skin, dense connective tissue, galea aponeurotica, loose areolar tissue, and pericranium; the galea explains why deep scalp lacerations gape.

Arterial supply to the scalp comes from the external carotid branches (superficial temporal, occipital) and the internal carotid (supraorbital, supratrochlear).

The arrector pili muscle attaches to the follicle and contracts in response to cold or emotion, producing 'gooseflesh'.

Hair texture, density, porosity, and elasticity are physical properties determined by genetics, follicle shape, and cumulative chemical or thermal damage, not by scalp type alone.

Analyze four properties before any service: texture (fine/medium/coarse), density (thin through thick), porosity (resistance to moisture uptake), and elasticity (wet strand stretches and returns).

Scalp types: normal, oily (seborrhea), dry, and combination; treatment selection follows the observed type, not the client's preference alone.

Contagious conditions (pediculosis, tinea capitis, impetigo, ringworm) require referral and refusal of service; tools and linens used before detection are disinfected.

Non-contagious disorders (dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, alopecia areata) may allow service with a physician's clearance and a protective barrier.

Hair loss categories: androgenic alopecia (pattern), alopecia areata (autoimmune patches), telogen effluvium (diffuse shedding after stress or illness), traction alopecia (from tight styling).

Traction alopecia is preventable; early marginal thinning from tight braids, locks, or extensions warrants loosening the style and referring the client.

A patch test is required 24-48 hours before any aniline-derivative tint or lightener service for each new client or newly opened product.

Document analysis findings and any referral in the client record; do not diagnose medical conditions or recommend prescription treatments.

Hair typing (Andre Walker 1-4 with a/b/c subclasses) describes curl pattern only; products must also match porosity, density, and scalp condition.

Low-porosity hair resists moisture: use heat, water-based leave-ins, and lighter oils; high-porosity hair loses moisture quickly and benefits from protein and sealing layers.

Cleansing options: sulfate shampoo (strongest), sulfate-free or co-wash conditioners (gentle), and clay or ACV rinses; frequency follows scalp oiliness and buildup, not a fixed schedule.

Pre-poo treatment (oil or conditioner applied before shampoo) reduces hygral fatigue and mechanical breakage during cleansing.

Deep conditioning requires heat or time to raise the cuticle; protein treatments fill gaps in damaged cortex, while moisturizing treatments add water and lipids.

The LOC method layers liquid (water-based), oil, and cream to seal moisture; LCO reverses the last two for finer or low-porosity hair.

Detangle from ends to roots on damp, conditioned hair with a wide-tooth comb or fingers; dry detangling on tight curls increases breakage.

Protective styling (braids, twists, buns) limits manipulation and ends breakage; installs should be redone before tension causes traction damage.

Scalp treatment sequence: analyze scalp, drape client, cleanse, apply treatment, massage, steam or heat if indicated, rinse, then finish.

Massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction (circular pressure), and vibration; each is used for a specific effect.

Scalp massage increases local circulation and sebum distribution; it is contraindicated over open lesions, recent surgery, or active infection.

Contraindications to heat and steam: hypertension, asthma, pregnancy complications, recent chemical peel, or sensitivity to heat.

Shampoo bowl posture matters: support the neck at the bowl edge, keep the client's chin slightly up, and avoid hyperextension to prevent strain.

Water temperature for scalp services should be comfortably warm (about 37-40 C / 98-104 F) and checked on the inner wrist before application.

Product application should follow the scalp type: clay or astringent for oily scalp, emollient oils for dry scalp, and fragrance-free formulas for sensitive scalp.

Record the treatment, products, and client response in the service record, especially for first-time or reactive clients.

Braiding categories: three-strand, French/Dutch (added hair), cornrow, fishtail, and halo; each differs in how strands cross and how hair is added.

Section size, tension, and parting determine braid longevity and scalp health; tension that blanches the skin or causes pain is too tight.

Twists: two-strand, flat, and rope; locking methods include palm roll, comb coil, interlocking, and freeform, each with a different maintenance cycle.

Locking should be maintained with retwists at the new growth only; retwisting the full length causes buildup and weakens the lock.

Extensions: sewn-in weaves, bonded or tape-in, clip-in, and crochet; each requires a different removal method and scalp check interval.

Before installing extensions, assess natural hair strength, scalp condition, and the client's ability to maintain the style; document the plan.

Bonding adhesives and tapes require a patch test and careful removal with the manufacturer's solvent to avoid traction and residue.

Braids and locks should be cleansed with diluted shampoo and dried thoroughly; trapped moisture under extensions can cause mildew and scalp irritation.

Thermal tools: blow dryer, marcel iron, flat iron, and hot comb; temperature should be matched to hair texture and condition, with a heat protectant applied first.

Flat iron temperature ranges roughly 150-230 C (300-450 F); fine or damaged hair needs the lower end, coarse resistant hair the higher end, always with a test strand.

Silk press sequence: cleanse, deep condition, apply heat protectant, blow-dry with tension, then flat iron in small sections with one pass per section.

Relaxers (sodium hydroxide or guanidine) break disulfide bonds; strength (mild, regular, super) is chosen by hair resistance, not by desired straightness alone.

Relaxer application: protect previously relaxed hair with a base or barrier, apply to new growth first, and do not exceed the manufacturer's processing time.

No-lye relaxers use guanidine and require a calcium hydroxide activator; they are more drying and require chelating shampoo to remove mineral buildup.

Texturizers and curl loosening use the same chemistry at lower strength; the difference from a relaxer is processing time and intended result.

Never apply a relaxer over a thio-based or previously relaxed hair without a strand test; overlapping causes breakage and chemical burns.

Consultation flow: greet, assess hair and scalp, ask about history and products, discuss options and cost, confirm consent, then document.

The client intake form should capture chemical history (relaxers, color, bleach), medications, allergies, pregnancy, and prior reactions.

Informed consent means the client understands the service, risks, alternatives, aftercare, and price before the service begins.

Scope of practice: a natural hair stylist may analyze and recommend but must not diagnose disease or prescribe medication; refer to a physician when in doubt.

Confidentiality: client health and personal information is not shared with others, including on social media, without written permission.

Conflict resolution: restate the client's concern, explain what was done and why, offer a remedy within policy, and document the outcome.

Pricing and service policies should be disclosed in writing before the appointment; hidden fees or bait-and-switch pricing violate professional ethics.

Cultural competence includes respecting the client's hair goals, texture, and identity, and avoiding judgmental language about natural hair.

SDS (Safety Data Sheet) must be on file for every chemical product in the salon and accessible to workers; OSHA Hazard Communication Standard requires it.

Store chemicals in labeled, closed original containers away from heat and out of reach of children; never transfer to unmarked bottles.

Ventilation: use exhaust or open windows when applying relaxers, color, or acrylics; inhalation of vapors is a documented occupational hazard.

Electrical safety: inspect cords and tools for damage, keep water away from outlets, and use GFCI protection near shampoo bowls.

Fire: know the location of extinguishers (PASS: Pull, Aim, Squeeze, Sweep) and evacuate clients first; call 911 before fighting a large fire.

Chemical splash in the eye: flush with clean water for at least 15 minutes, remove contacts if present, and seek medical attention.

Ingestion or skin reaction: read the SDS, call Poison Control (1-800-222-1222 in the U.S.), and follow the label first-aid instructions.

Slips and falls: keep floors dry, use wet-floor signs, clean spills immediately, and store cords and hoses out of walkways.