MT Esthetician cheat sheet

Sterilization destroys all microbial life including bacterial spores; disinfection kills most pathogens on surfaces but not spores; sanitation is the lowest level and only reduces contaminants.

Hospital-grade disinfectants must carry an EPA registration number and be used at the label dilution and contact time; quats typically need 10 minutes wet contact unless the label states otherwise.

Porous implements (wooden spatulas, cotton, sponges) are single-use and cannot be disinfected; nonporous metal and glass tools are cleaned, then disinfected or sterilized.

Autoclave parameters commonly cited: 250°F (121°C) at 15 psi for 15–20 minutes for wrapped instruments; spore testing verifies efficacy.

Standard precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; gloves are required for any service that may contact blood or open skin, and hands are washed before and after gloving.

A blood exposure is managed by washing with soap and water, reporting to the supervisor, and seeking medical evaluation; the employer's exposure control plan governs follow-up.

Implements must be disinfected after each client, stored in a clean closed container, and never returned to a clean drawer after use.

Contraindications to waxing and chemical services include active herpes, open lesions, recent isotretinoin use, and known allergy to product ingredients; refer these clients out.

Material Safety Data Sheets (now Safety Data Sheets, 16 sections under GHS) must be accessible to employees for every hazardous product in the salon.

The epidermis has five layers; from deep to surface: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms and soles only), and corneum.

Keratinocytes are formed in the stratum basale and migrate upward over roughly 28 days in young skin; this turnover slows with age.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin via tyrosinase; UV exposure upregulates tyrosinase, causing tanning and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

The dermis contains collagen (strength), elastin (recoil), and glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid (hydration); fibroblasts synthesize these fibers.

The skin is the largest organ and performs protection, sensation, thermoregulation, excretion, secretion, and vitamin D synthesis.

Facial motor innervation is from the facial nerve (cranial nerve VII); sensory supply to the face is from the trigeminal nerve (cranial nerve V).

The lymphatic drainage of the face flows toward the submandibular and cervical nodes; massage strokes are directed accordingly.

Sebaceous glands are attached to hair follicles and are concentrated on the face, scalp, and upper back; sebum production is androgen-sensitive.

Sweat glands are eccrine (thermoregulation, widespread) and apocrine (axillae and groin, odor when combined with bacteria).

Fitzpatrick types I–VI are assigned by burning and tanning history; type I always burns and never tans, type VI is deeply pigmented and rarely burns.

The Glogau scale grades photoaging I (mild, no keratoses) to IV (severe, actinic keratoses); the Rubin scale grades wrinkling by position and severity.

Lesions are primary (arising de novo, e.g., macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, nodule) or secondary (evolving, e.g., scale, crust, excoriation, scar, fissure).

Acne grading uses lesion counts and type; comedones only is mild, papules and pustules moderate, nodules and cysts severe and referral-level.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation follows inflammation in darker skin types; treatment prioritizes inflammation control, sun protection, and tyrosinase inhibitors.

Rosacea presents with flushing, telangiectasia, and papules without comedones; triggers include heat, alcohol, and spicy food; avoid aggressive exfoliation and heat.

Skin type (dry, oily, combination, normal) reflects sebum and hydration; skin condition (dehydrated, sensitive, acneic, mature) is a temporary state that guides product choice.

A patch test on the inner forearm or behind the ear for 24–48 hours is the standard screen before a first chemical peel or color service.

Melanoma warning signs follow the ABCDE rule: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter over 6 mm, Evolving lesion; refer immediately.

Standard facial sequence: consultation and analysis, cleansing, exfoliation, extraction if indicated, massage, mask, and moisturizer with SPF.

Massage movements are effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction, and vibration; each has a defined pressure and pace.

Effleurage begins and ends every massage sequence and follows lymphatic direction toward the nodes; pressure is light and rhythmic.

Manual extraction is performed after softening with warm steam or compresses, using fingers wrapped in tissue and light pressure; inflamed or cystic lesions are not extracted.

Contraindications to facial massage include recent surgery, active infection, severe acne, and uncontrolled hypertension; heat modalities are avoided in rosacea and pregnancy.

Steam is held roughly 12–18 inches from the face for 5–10 minutes; it softens sebum but can aggravate sensitive or couperose skin.

A mask is selected by function-clay for oil control, hydrating gel for dehydration, and calming formulas for sensitivity-and is removed before it fully dries.

High-frequency current is used for a mild germicidal and drying effect on acne-prone skin; it is contraindicated with pacemakers and pregnancy.

Treatment room standards: linens changed per client, implements disinfected, and client records documenting products, reactions, and contraindications retained per state rules.

The anagen (growth) phase is when hair is most responsive to laser and electrolysis; telogen is the resting phase when hair sheds.

Wax application follows hair growth direction and removal is against it; the skin is held taut and the strip pulled parallel to the skin, not upward.

Hard wax is applied thick and removed without a strip; it is preferred for sensitive areas and short, coarse hair.

Contraindications to waxing include isotretinoin use within 6–12 months, recent chemical peels or retinoids on the area, sunburn, and active skin infection.

Wax temperature is tested on the inner wrist or back of the hand; overheated wax causes burns and lifting of the skin.

Post-wax care includes soothing lotion, avoidance of heat, friction, and sun for 24 hours, and no deodorant or makeup on the treated area.

Folliculitis after waxing presents as small red papules or pustules at follicles; it is managed with gentle cleansing and referral if it persists.

Threading removes hair with a twisted cotton thread and is suitable for sensitive skin; it is a mechanical method and does not affect the follicle.

Laser hair removal targets melanin, so it is most effective on dark hair with light skin and carries risk of burns or paradoxical growth on darker skin.

Alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic (smallest molecule, deepest penetration), lactic (hydrating), malic, tartaric, and citric; they are water-soluble.

Beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid; it is lipid-soluble, penetrates pores, and is useful for comedonal acne; it is contraindicated in aspirin allergy.

Peel depth depends on acid type, concentration, free-acid pH, number of layers, and contact time; lower pH means more free acid and a stronger peel.

Superficial peels affect the epidermis only (glycolic 20–30%, lactic, salicylic 20–30%); medium peels reach the papillary dermis (TCA 35%, Jessner's).

Neutralizing with sodium bicarbonate or water stops an AHA peel; TCA is self-neutralizing and must be timed and watched for frosting.

Frosting (white pseudofrost) during TCA indicates protein coagulation; it is an endpoint, not a goal to exceed, and signals the peel must stop.

Post-peel care: gentle cleanser, bland moisturizer, broad-spectrum SPF, and no retinoids, scrubs, or sun for 7–10 days.

Retinoids thin the stratum corneum and increase photosensitivity; clients should stop retinoids 5–7 days before a peel per protocol.

Microneedling creates controlled microchannels and is contraindicated with active acne, keloid history, pregnancy, and isotretinoin use.

Color theory for makeup: complementary colors neutralize (green cancels redness, orange cancels blue undereye tones, yellow cancels purple).

Foundation shade is matched to the jawline in natural light; undertones are warm (yellow/golden), cool (pink/blue), or neutral.

Sanitation for makeup: never double-dip applicators, use a metal spatula to remove product, sharpen pencils before each client, and wash brushes after use.

Lash extensions use individual synthetic fibers adhered with cyanoacrylate adhesive; a patch test 24–48 hours before the first application is standard.

Cyanoacrylate adhesive cures with moisture and can cause sensitization; proper ventilation, a lash-safe adhesive, and avoiding skin contact reduce risk.

Lash contraindications include active eye infection, recent eye surgery, and known adhesive allergy; clients with allergies should be referred before service.

Eyelash tinting requires a patch test and careful isolation of the eye; the tint must not enter the eye, and a barrier such as petroleum jelly protects the skin.

Strip lashes are removed by dissolving the adhesive with a remover and lifting from the outer corner inward; pulling damages the natural lash line.

Mascara and eyeliner are single-use for clients; shared products are a cross-contamination risk and are not permitted in professional practice.

Licensure is state-specific; estheticians practice under a state board (often the Board of Cosmetology or Barbering) that sets scope of practice, hours, and renewal.

Scope of practice typically excludes diagnosing skin disease, prescribing medication, and performing procedures reserved for physicians or nurses.

Client records must document services, products, consent, and adverse reactions; retention periods vary by state, commonly 3–7 years.

A salon license and individual license must be displayed; practicing without a current license is grounds for fines and license revocation.

Continuing education hours and renewal cycles are set by the state board; failure to renew on time may require reinstatement and fees.

Service pricing must cover product cost, time, overhead, and profit; a common formula is (product cost + labor) × markup, or price = cost ÷ (1 − target margin).

Retail markup is often calculated as keystone (double the wholesale cost) or a set multiplier; tracking inventory prevents shrinkage.

Informed consent and a signed intake form document allergies and contraindications and reduce liability; minors may require parental consent.

Independent contracting versus employment affects taxes, insurance, and control; estheticians should confirm their classification and carry professional liability coverage.