Advanced Skin Care and Chemical Exfoliation
What this domain tests
Advanced skin care questions cover chemical exfoliation: acids, pH, concentration, skin prep, neutralization, indications, contraindications, and post-care. The exam tests safety and the relationship between pH, free acid, and risk.
Core rules
- Alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic and lactic acid; beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid. AHAs are water-soluble; BHA is oil-soluble and more follicle-focused.
- Lower pH increases free acid and penetration, so a 20% glycolic product at pH 3.5 is less aggressive than the same 20% at pH 2.5.
- Prep the skin by cleansing and degreasing; protect sensitive areas. Do not stack peels with recent retinoids, waxing, laser, or exfoliating acids.
- Some peels require neutralization; others are self-neutralizing. Follow the manufacturer protocol and timer exactly. Neutralize if the client reports burning beyond expected stinging.
- Contraindicate active infection, open skin, pregnancy for certain agents, isotretinoin, recent surgery, and poor sun protection. Post-care includes gentle cleansing, moisturizer, and daily SPF.
Worked example
A client wants a glycolic peel but used retinol two nights ago. Reasoning: retinoids increase irritation and barrier compromise, raising risk of a chemical burn. Reschedule and document. If the skin is clear later, start conservatively and confirm no recent retinoid use.
Traps
Thinking higher percentage always means better results; ignoring pH; skipping neutralization when required; treating burning as a good sign; failing to ask about retinoids or waxing; inadequate sun protection.