MATSEC SEC Hairdressing and Beauty flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Cuticle (hair)

Outermost layer of the hair shaft made of tough transparent overlapping scales that protect the cortex; chemical damage raises the scales and leaves hair dull and porous.

Anagen phase

Active growth stage of the hair cycle lasting 2–7 years; most scalp hairs are in anagen, which is why waxing works best on anagen hair.

Disulphide bond

Strong sulphur-to-sulphur bond between keratin chains in the cortex; relaxers and perms break it and the neutraliser reforms it, giving hair its strength and shape.

Autoclave parameters

Sterilises metal implements using steam under pressure at 121 °C and 15 psi for 15–20 minutes; UV cabinets only disinfect exposed surfaces.

Patch test timing

Colour or tint is applied to the inner elbow or behind the ear 48 hours before every application and the result recorded; a positive reaction means the service is refused.

Fitzpatrick scale

Classification of skin from type I (very fair, always burns) to type VI (deeply pigmented, never burns), used to judge UV risk and treatment suitability.

Effleurage

Light gliding massage stroke performed with the palms or fingertips, used to begin and end a facial or scalp massage and to apply and spread product.

Hard water

Water containing high levels of calcium and magnesium salts; it reduces shampoo lather, leaves a mineral film and makes hair feel rough and dull.

Anionic surfactant

Negatively charged cleansing agent such as SLS that produces strong lather and removes sebum; it is the main detergent in most shampoos.

Cationic surfactant

Positively charged conditioning agent that binds to the negatively charged hair surface, smoothing the cuticle and reducing static and flyaway.

Tinea capitis

Contagious fungal scalp infection causing scaly patches and broken hairs; treatment must be refused and the client referred to a doctor.

Elevation angle

Angle at which hair is held from the head when cutting: 0° gives one length, 45° graduation, 90° uniform layers and 180° long layers.

Point cutting

Cutting into the ends of a section with the points of the scissors to soften and texturise a blunt line without removing overall length.

Developer volumes

10 vol (3%) deposits or tones, 20 vol (6%) lifts 1–2 levels, 30 vol (9%) lifts 2–3 levels and 40 vol (12%) lifts 3–4 levels off the scalp.

Clinical waste

Blood-stained cotton wool, gloves and used blades must go into labelled clinical waste bags or sharps containers, never into general rubbish.

Metallic salt test

Henna and metallic salt colours can react violently with peroxide; a strand test is done and permanent colour refused when the history is unknown.

Relaxer neutraliser

Acidic hydrogen peroxide solution that stops the thioglycolate action and rebuilds the broken disulphide bonds, fixing the straightened shape of the hair.

Exfoliation contraindication

Mechanical and chemical exfoliants are avoided on broken skin, active acne, sunburn, recently waxed skin and while the client uses retinoid products.

Acid mantle

Thin slightly acidic film on the skin surface at about pH 4.5–5.5 that inhibits bacteria and is supported by toners and pH-balanced cleansers.

Nail matrix

Living tissue at the base of the nail beneath the cuticle where nail cells are produced; damage here causes permanent ridges or plate deformity.

Lunula

Pale half-moon at the base of the nail plate and the visible part of the matrix; it is delicate living tissue and is not over-file or pushed hard.

Koilonychia

Spoon-shaped nail with a concave plate, often linked to iron-deficiency anaemia; the nail is not treated cosmetically and the client is referred.

Filing direction

Natural nails are filed from corner to centre in one direction only; sawing back and forth splits the layers and causes peeling and delamination.

Warm wax removal

Warm strip wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and the fabric strip is removed quickly against the growth while the skin is held taut.

Isotretinoin and waxing

Clients on isotretinoin must not be waxed until 6–12 months after stopping, because fragile skin lifts and tears during the treatment.

Colour correction green

Green concealer neutralises redness such as spots and broken capillaries; peach or orange corrects blue-violet dark under-eye circles on the face.

Barbicide contact time

Quaternary ammonium disinfectant used for combs and metal tools; items are fully immersed for the manufacturer's stated contact time, usually 10 minutes.

Safety Data Sheet

Document supplied with every chemical product giving hazards, required PPE, first aid and storage information needed for the salon risk assessment.

Strand test

Small test on a hidden section to predict colour or perm result, development time and condition, especially on resistant, previously coloured or unknown hair.

Hand hygiene

Hands are washed with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds, or rubbed with alcohol gel when not visibly soiled, before and after every client.

Hyponychium

Skin under the free edge of the nail that seals the nail bed against infection; it is never probed with a tool or cut during a manicure.

Consultation record

Written record of medical history, hair and skin analysis, patch tests, products used, agreed service and price, signed by the client and stored securely.