MT Nail Technician cheat sheet

Montana rule: implements that contact skin or nails must be cleaned and then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant labeled for the required contact time; single-use items (emery boards, orangewood sticks, cotton, toe separators) are discarded after one client.

Disinfection differs from sterilization: disinfection destroys most pathogenic organisms on inanimate surfaces, sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores and is not required for standard nail implements.

Two-step procedure after each client: (1) wash implements with soap and water and scrub debris from crevices, (2) fully immerse in disinfectant for the label contact time; disinfectant must be changed per manufacturer instructions or when visibly soiled.

Hand washing: wet hands, apply soap, scrub palms, backs, between fingers, and under nails for at least 20 seconds, rinse, dry with a disposable towel; alcohol-based sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Blood and body fluid exposure: stop service, put on gloves, clean the area with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal disinfectant, and dispose of contaminated materials in a sealed bag; Montana requires reporting exposure incidents per shop policy.

Client screening decision rule: refuse service and refer to a physician when the nail or surrounding skin shows pus, redness, swelling, fever, or a suspected fungal or bacterial infection; do not treat, do not apply product over the site.

Pedicure basin rule: after each client, drain, scrub the basin with soap and water, then circulate or fill with an EPA-registered disinfectant for the labeled contact time; removable jet filters are cleaned and disinfected the same way.

Tool storage: clean, disinfected implements are stored in a closed, labeled container separate from soiled implements; drawers and containers are cleaned and disinfected at least weekly.

Montana shops must have a hand-washing sink with hot and cold running water accessible in the work area; a bathroom sink does not satisfy this requirement.

Nail plate is composed mainly of keratin; the nail bed lies beneath it and attaches via the bed epithelium. The nail matrix, hidden under the proximal nail fold, produces the plate - matrix damage causes permanent deformity.

Nail growth: fingernails average about 3 mm (roughly 1/8 inch) per month and replace in 4–6 months; toenails grow about 1 mm per month and replace in 9–12 months, slower in winter and with poor circulation.

Cuticle (eponychium) seals the space between the nail plate and the proximal nail fold; the hyponychium seals under the free edge; the lunula is the visible portion of the matrix and is whitish.

Nail plate thickness averages about 0.5 mm on the fingers; the free edge is the portion extending past the hyponychium and has no nerve or blood supply.

Onychomycosis (tinea unguium): fungal infection causing thickened, discolored, crumbling nails; service is contraindicated and the client is referred to a physician.

Paronychia: bacterial or yeast infection of the tissue around the nail, with redness, swelling, and pus; do not massage or apply product, refer out.

Onycholysis: separation of the nail plate from the bed, often from trauma, aggressive filing, or product lifting; do not force product under the lifted area.

Beau's lines are transverse grooves from interrupted matrix growth (illness, trauma); koilonychia is spoon-shaped nails; both are documented, not treated, by the technician.

Pterygium (nail) is forward growth of the cuticle adhering to the plate; do not cut living tissue - soften with cuticle cream and push back gently.

Manicure sequence: sanitize hands, inspect nails and skin, shape with file in one direction on natural nails, buff, soak or soften cuticles, gently push back, massage, then polish or apply product.

File grit rule: lower numbers are coarser (100 is coarser than 240); use 180-grit or finer on natural nails, reserve 100–150 for product removal and artificial nails, and never use a coarse file on the natural plate.

Shape decision rule: square and squoval suit strong, wide nail beds; oval and almond suit narrow beds and short nails; point weakens the free edge and is not recommended for active clients.

Cuticle nippers are used only on dead, hanging skin (a hangnail) - never to cut the living eponychium, which risks infection and permanent ridge formation.

Pedicure sequence: sanitize feet, inspect for infection and contraindications, soak, clean under the free edge, file, treat callus with a paddle or pumice (never a credo blade or razor), massage, polish.

Contraindication check before pedicure: diabetes, circulatory problems, and neuropathy require physician clearance and extra care with water temperature and abrasion.

Massage strokes: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction (circular); massage toward the heart and avoid over joints and inflamed areas.

Polish application: thin base coat, two thin color coats, thin top coat; thin coats cure faster and resist chipping better than one heavy coat.

Hot oil manicure uses warmed oil to soften cuticles and hydrate skin; temperature is checked on the technician's wrist before the client's hand is immersed.

Tip sizing rule: choose a tip that matches the widest part of the natural nail sidewall to sidewall with no gap and no overlap; if between sizes, go larger and file to fit.

Tip application: dehydrate the plate, apply adhesive in a thin even line, hold the tip at a 45-degree angle against the free edge, press down, and hold 5–10 seconds; remove air bubbles to prevent lifting.

Tip blending: shorten the tip to the desired length, then blend the seam with a medium-grit file and buffer until the transition is smooth and the tip edge is not visible.

Silk and fiberglass wraps are applied with a resin/activator system over a base coat; the wrap adds strength but does not lengthen the nail - it reinforces the natural plate or a tip.

Wrap removal: soak in acetone-based remover or use the manufacturer's remover, then gently lift the wrap; never pry or rip it off the natural plate.

Tip contraindication: do not apply a tip when the free edge is split, the plate is thin or damaged, or the nail bed shows onycholysis; repair the natural nail first.

Nail forms are used for sculpting instead of tips; the form is fitted under the free edge and removed after the product sets, so no blending seam is created.

Overlay vs. extension: an overlay covers the natural plate only; an extension adds length beyond the free edge using a tip or form plus product.

Adhesive safety: cyanoacrylate glues bond skin instantly - keep remover on hand, store upright away from eyes, and never use a glue that has thickened or clogged.

Acrylic system is a powder (polymer) and liquid (monomer) mixed to form a bead; the correct ratio is roughly 1.5 parts powder to 1 part liquid by volume - a bead that holds its shape and does not run is correct.

Monomer is a skin and respiratory irritant; use in a ventilated area, keep the container closed, and avoid skin contact - overexposure can cause allergic sensitization.

Bead placement: place the bead at the stress area (where the free edge meets the nail bed) and press forward and back with the brush; do not flood the cuticle or sidewalls.

Product application rule: keep acrylic off the skin and cuticle - product touching skin lifts, and repeated skin contact increases allergy risk.

Filing: use a 100–150 grit for shaping product and 180 or finer near the natural plate; over-filing the natural nail causes thinning and sensitivity.

Removal: file down the bulk, then soak in acetone or use the manufacturer's remover until soft; never force or pry product off the nail plate.

Lifting causes: moisture on the plate, cuticle not removed, product on skin, incorrect mix ratio, or missing stress-area reinforcement.

Stress area is the most breakage-prone zone; a slightly thicker application there and a proper apex reduce breakage.

Contraindication: do not apply acrylic over infected, inflamed, or broken skin, or over a nail with onycholysis; refer the client for treatment first.

Gel product cures only under UV or LED light; uncured gel left on skin can cause allergic contact dermatitis, so any gel on the skin is removed before curing.

Cure-time rule: follow the manufacturer's lamp and time for the specific gel line - mixing brands or lamps can undercure and cause lifting or allergy.

Gel polish application: base coat, cure, thin color coats, cure each, top coat, cure, then cleanse the inhibition layer with the manufacturer's cleanser if required.

Gel is more flexible than acrylic and is applied in thin layers; thick layers trap uncured product and cause heat spikes or lifting.

Removal: file the top coat, wrap with acetone-soaked cotton and foil (or use the manufacturer's remover), wait the labeled time, then gently push off softened gel; never scrape hard.

LED lamps cure faster than UV lamps for compatible gels; UV lamps require longer times and the bulbs degrade - replace per manufacturer schedule.

Contraindication: gel should not be applied over infected or broken skin; clients with known acrylate allergy should be referred to a physician before gel service.

Gel over natural nail is an overlay; gel over a tip or form is an extension - the same application and cure rules apply.

Inhibition layer is the tacky uncured surface after curing; it is removed with cleanser before the next layer or final finish, depending on the system.

Design planning rule: decide the design, colors, and placement before starting so the product does not set while the technician is still deciding.

Color theory: complementary colors (opposite on the color wheel) create contrast; analogous colors (adjacent) create harmony; use contrast for accent nails.

Nail art media: polish, gel, acrylic, airbrush, stamping, foils, rhinestones, and hand-painting - each has its own cure or adhesive requirement.

Stamping and decals must be sealed under a top coat so edges do not lift; rhinestones are set in wet product or adhesive and then sealed around the base.

French manicure: white free edge with a natural or pink base; the smile line should follow the natural free edge and be consistent across all ten nails.

Airbrush uses thinned paint and a stencil; keep the airbrush tool clean and the work area ventilated, and mask the surrounding skin.

Sanitation rule for art: shared brushes, dotting tools, and stampers are cleaned and disinfected between clients; porous items that cannot be disinfected are single-use.

Design must fit the client's nail shape and lifestyle: long, elaborate art on a short active nail bed chips faster and is harder to maintain.

Color choice rule: warm skin tones generally suit warm colors (reds, oranges, yellows) and cool tones suit cool colors (blues, greens, purples); verify with the client before applying.

Consultation sequence: greet, review the client's history and preferences, inspect nails and skin, identify contraindications, agree on the service and price, then proceed.

Health history questions: allergies (especially acrylates and adhesives), medications, diabetes, circulatory problems, skin or nail infections, and pregnancy - all affect product choice and service safety.

Contraindication decision rule: if the client reports or shows signs of infection, broken skin, or an allergic reaction, decline the service and refer to a physician; document the referral.

Informed consent: explain the products, the process, the risks (lifting, allergy, damage from improper removal), and the aftercare before the service begins.

Communication rule: use plain language, avoid diagnosing, and never promise a medical outcome - the technician describes what is observed and refers.

Aftercare instructions: keep nails dry for the first hours, use cuticle oil, wear gloves for household chemicals, and return for professional removal rather than prying product off.

Conflict handling: listen, restate the client's concern, offer a concrete remedy within shop policy, and document the resolution; do not argue in front of other clients.

Documentation: record the service, products used, and any reaction in the client's record so future services and any follow-up are informed.

Scope of practice: a nail technician cleans, shapes, and beautifies nails and applies product; diagnosing disease, treating infection, and using credo blades or razor callus removal are outside the scope.

Confidentiality: client health information and records are kept private and shared only as required by law or with the client's consent.

Pricing and disclosure: quote the full price and any add-ons before the service; hidden charges and bait-and-switch pricing are unethical and may violate Montana consumer protection law.

Record keeping: retain client records and service documentation per Montana Board of Cosmetology requirements and shop policy; records support defense against complaints.

Insurance and licensing: maintain a current license displayed at the workstation and carry the liability coverage required by the shop; practicing on an expired license is prohibited.

Advertising rule: never claim medical benefits, cures, or guaranteed results; advertising must be truthful and must not misrepresent licensure or training.

Sanitation ethics: refusing to cut corners on disinfection protects clients and the license - shortcuts are grounds for discipline by the Board.

Conflict of interest: do not sell products you are not trained to use or recommend services the client does not need; disclose any incentive you receive.

Continuing education: Montana requires license renewal with continuing education hours per the Board's current rule; keep certificates on file.

Nail technicians in Montana are licensed by the Montana Board of Barbers and Cosmetologists under the Department of Labor and Industry; a license is required to perform services for compensation.

License renewal: Montana licenses renew on a set cycle with continuing education and fee requirements - verify the current cycle and hour count on the Board's website before renewal.

Shop sanitation rules: shops must have a hand-washing sink, hot and cold running water, an EPA-registered disinfectant, closed storage for clean implements, and separate containers for soiled items.

Implements that contact skin or nails must be cleaned and disinfected after each client; single-use items must be discarded and not reused.

The Board may discipline a licensee for unsanitary practices, practicing outside scope, fraud, or practicing on a lapsed license; discipline can include fine, suspension, or revocation.

Display rule: the license must be displayed in the shop and available for inspection by the Board or its agents.

Client records and sanitation logs must be maintained and available for inspection during business hours.

Montana prohibits unlicensed practice; a technician may not allow an unlicensed person to perform services in the shop.

Rule changes: the Board updates sanitation and licensing rules periodically - the current Montana Administrative Rules and Board website are the authoritative source.