Acrylic Nails
What the exam tests
Acrylic nails tests monomer-powder chemistry, bead control, zone application, filing, fill, and removal. Acrylic cures by polymerization after the liquid monomer and powder polymer are mixed; it does not require a UV lamp. Proper ratio gives a workable bead that adheres without bubbles or shrinkage.
Core rules
- Use the manufacturer's monomer and polymer; do not substitute craft acrylic or MMA.
- A proper bead is neither runny nor dry. Too wet causes bubbles, shrinkage, and lifting; too dry causes brittle, cloudy product.
- Apply in three zones: free edge, stress area/apex, and cuticle area. Keep product off skin and cuticle.
- Build a slight apex at the stress zone for strength; over-thinning causes breakage.
- Cure fully, then file and finish with a smooth surface.
- Fill every two to three weeks; remove by soaking in acetone and filing, never by prying.
Worked example
A bead runs down the sidewall and onto the skin. Reasoning: the ratio is too wet, and skin contact risks lifting and allergy. Wipe the product off before it sets, adjust by dipping the brush and draining excess liquid, then pick up a smaller bead. Reapply with a drier consistency and keep a margin from the cuticle.
Traps
Flooding cuticle; using a wet bead to speed application; skipping the apex; and forcing removal. Also avoid filing the natural nail to correct a lifted product; remove and re-prep instead.