NC Barber key terms

A process that uses an EPA-registered product on nonporous tools and surfaces to destroy most harmful bacteria, fungi, and viruses. It does not kill bacterial spores, so it is not the same as sterilization and must be done between clients.

The complete destruction of all microbial life on an item, including bacterial spores. In barbering it is normally achieved with an autoclave using steam under pressure, and it is required for items that will penetrate or contact broken skin.

A product approved by the Environmental Protection Agency for killing a broad range of pathogens on hard, nonporous surfaces. It must be mixed at the label strength and items must stay submerged for the full contact time printed on the label.

The practice of treating all blood and body fluids from every client as potentially infectious. It means wearing gloves, eye protection, and a clean smock when exposure is likely, and never assuming a client is safe because they look healthy.

Any situation where blood or other potentially infectious material contacts broken skin, mucous membranes, or the eyes. The barber stops the service, washes the area, reports to the shop owner, and follows the shop's written exposure plan.

A standardized sheet supplied by the manufacturer that lists a product's hazards, safe handling, first aid, and storage requirements. Shops must keep these sheets on hand for every chemical product they use, including disinfectants and relaxers.

A supply that is porous or cannot be properly cleaned and disinfected, such as a neck strip, paper towel, or gauze. It is used on one client only and then thrown away, never reused on another person.

The angle at which hair is held away from the head while it is cut. Holding hair flat against the scalp produces a solid form, while lifting it higher creates layers and graduation, so elevation controls the shape of the finished cut.

A guideline that does not move during the haircut, usually the first section cut at the perimeter or in the nape. All later sections are matched to it, which keeps the length and line consistent across the head.

A guideline that is taken from the section just cut and carried into the next section. This moving reference lets a barber blend successive partings while keeping the overall shape even and balanced.

A finishing check in which the barber combs or picks the hair in a different direction than it was cut and re-examines the surface. It reveals uneven areas, loose strands, and heavy corners before the client leaves the chair.

A texturizing technique in which the tips of the shears are held almost parallel to the hair strand and cut into the ends. It softens a hard line and removes bulk without shortening the overall length much.

A barbering method in which the clipper is run along the back of a comb to remove length close to the scalp. It is used to create tight tapering, blends, and fades around the sides and nape.

Grinding a straight razor on an abrasive stone to restore or create the cutting edge. The blade is drawn at a consistent angle and with even pressure so the bevel stays true along the full length of the edge.

Smoothing and aligning the razor's edge on a leather strop after honing and before each shave. The blade is drawn spine-first, flipped flat, and pulled back so both sides of the edge are polished evenly.

The direction the razor travels relative to hair growth. Shaving with the grain removes hair in its natural direction and irritates skin least, while going against the grain gives a closer shave but raises the risk of razor burn.

A skin condition, often called razor bumps, in which tightly curled hairs grow back into the skin after shaving and cause inflamed bumps. Affected clients are usually advised to avoid close shaves against the grain.

A small amount of a chemical product applied to the skin and left for 24 to 48 hours before the full service. It checks whether the client will have an allergic reaction, and a positive result means the service must not be performed.

A test done on a small cutting of the client's hair before a chemical service to judge how the product will react. It predicts processing time, final result, and possible damage so the service can be adjusted in advance.

A strong alkaline cream that straightens curly or wavy hair by breaking its disulfide bonds. Sodium hydroxide and guanidine products are common, and both require careful timing, protective base, and thorough rinsing to avoid burns.

The step after relaxing in which a shampoo brings the hair back to its normal acidic pH and stops the chemical action. It also removes remaining relaxer residue and helps the hair shaft re-form its bonds.

A relaxer that is applied without a separate protective cream on the scalp because the product already contains a built-in protective agent. Barbers still check the scalp for abrasions before use to prevent chemical burns.

A hydrogen peroxide solution that supplies oxygen to lift natural pigment and to develop permanent hair color. Its strength, or volume, controls how much lift occurs and how quickly the color forms inside the hair.

A two-step chemical service that uses a reducing agent to break disulfide bonds and a neutralizer to rebuild them in a new shape. The hair then holds curl until it grows out or is chemically straightened.

The ability of the hair to absorb and hold moisture, which depends mostly on the condition of the cuticle. Porous hair takes in chemicals and water quickly and may process faster, so timing must be watched closely.

The ability of a dry strand to stretch and then return to its original length without breaking. Good elasticity means the hair has a healthy protein and moisture balance; hair that snaps or stays stretched is fragile and needs gentler service.

The repeating pattern of growth, transition, and rest that every follicle goes through. Hair grows during the anagen phase, stops growing in catagen, and sheds in telogen, which explains why some shedding is normal.

Oil glands attached to the hair follicles that secrete sebum onto the scalp and hair. Sebum lubricates the hair and protects the skin, but too much of it can contribute to oily scalp and buildup.

A scale from 0 to 14 that measures how acidic or alkaline a substance is, with 7 being neutral. Hair and skin prefer mildly acidic products, while relaxers and some color products work because they are strongly alkaline.

A facial massage stroke in which the fingers or palms glide smoothly over the skin with light to medium pressure. It usually begins and ends a massage and helps warm the tissue and move lymph toward the nodes.

A kneading massage movement in which the skin and underlying tissue are lifted, squeezed, and rolled between the fingers or palms. It works deeper than gliding strokes and is used on the cheeks, jaw, and shoulders.

A brisk, rhythmic tapping or percussive movement made with the fingertips or the edges of the hands. It is applied briefly, usually at the end of a facial massage, to stimulate the skin and finish the service.

A condition or circumstance that makes a service unsafe or inadvisable for a client, such as an open sore, infection, or recent chemical burn. When one is present, the barber stops or postpones the service and refers the client elsewhere.

The permit a barber shop must obtain from the state board before offering services to the public. It is issued to the premises, must be kept current, and can be suspended if the shop fails sanitation requirements.

A person registered with the state board who is training under a licensed barber to qualify for a barber license. The apprentice may perform services only under the required supervision and must log training hours.

The set of services a licensed barber is legally allowed to perform. Working outside that scope, such as offering services that require another license, can lead to discipline by the board.

An unannounced or scheduled visit by a board representative who checks a shop's cleaning procedures, disinfectant use, and tool storage against the state rules. Violations must be corrected and can result in fines or license action.