NC Nail Technician cheat sheet

Cleaning removes visible debris with soap, detergent, and water; disinfection destroys most microorganisms on nonporous items and always follows cleaning.

A hospital-grade disinfectant is EPA-registered, mixed at the label dilution, and left for the full label contact time; typical kill claims include Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Salmonella.

Porous implements - files, buffers, wooden sticks, cotton, foam separators - cannot be disinfected because liquid cannot penetrate them; they are discarded after a single client.

Nonporous implements - nippers, pushers, metal files, tweezers - are washed with soap and water, dried, then fully immersed in disinfectant and removed with clean hands.

Blood or body-fluid exposure: stop the service, don gloves, clean the area with an antiseptic, apply a bandage, discard contaminated supplies in a covered container, then clean and disinfect tools and surfaces.

Bacterial forms are cocci (round), bacilli (rod), and spirilla (spiral); spores are dormant resistant forms, and viruses such as hepatitis B/C and HIV spread through blood and body fluids.

Hand washing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is the single most effective routine measure; hands are washed before and after every client and after removing gloves.

Alcohol and quaternary ammonium products are not hospital-grade disinfectants at typical wipe-on concentrations; they require the correct dilution and contact time to be effective.

The nail plate is made of keratinized, hardened cells with no nerves or blood vessels; it rests on the nail bed and its free edge extends beyond the fingertip.

The nail bed is skin under the plate containing blood vessels, which give the attached plate its pink tone; it is connected to the plate by nail bed epithelium.

The matrix produces new plate cells; injury to the matrix causes grooves, ridges, or permanent deformity of the nail that grows out.

The lunula is the visible whitish half-moon at the proximal end and represents the front part of the matrix.

The eponychium (cuticle) is the dead tissue seal at the proximal nail fold; it is pushed back, never cut, because it protects against infection.

The hyponychium seals the plate to the fingertip at the free edge; the onychodermal band is the darker line at that junction.

Lateral and proximal nail folds border the plate, and the nail grooves are the furrows the plate slides along as it grows.

Growth: fingernails about 3–3.5 mm (roughly 1/10 inch) per month, fully replaced in 4–6 months; toenails about 1.5 mm per month, 9–12 months for full replacement.

Skin layers: epidermis (no blood vessels), dermis (nerves, glands, hair follicles), and subcutaneous tissue beneath.

Contagious or medically significant conditions - fungal, bacterial, viral - are not serviced; the client is referred to a physician, and the reason is documented.

Onychomycosis is a fungal nail infection showing thickening, yellow-brown discoloration, and crumbling; tinea pedis (athlete's foot) and verruca (warts) are also contagious.

Paronychia is a bacterial infection of the nail fold with redness, swelling, and pus; it is a contraindication to any manicure or pedicure service.

Onychocryptosis is an ingrown nail; toenails are cut straight across and corners lightly filed, and an inflamed nail is not serviced.

Onychorrhexis is brittleness with lengthwise ridges and splitting; onycholysis is separation of the plate from the bed caused by trauma, aggressive filing, or harsh chemicals.

Onychophagy means bitten nails; onychotillomania means habit-torn or picked nails.

Koilonychia (spoon nails) and leuconychia (white spots from matrix trauma) may be cosmetic or systemic; new, dark, or irregular bands (melanonychia) require referral.

Onychogryphosis is a thickened, ram's-horn nail; a hematoma is blood trapped under the plate after trauma.

Technicians describe observations only - they never diagnose a disease or recommend medication.

Standard manicure sequence: sanitize hands, remove polish, shape the free edge, soak, perform cuticle care, massage, then apply polish.

File with one-directional strokes from corner toward center; back-and-forth sawing splits and frays the free edge, and coarse abrasives remove too much plate.

Soaking is limited to roughly 3–5 minutes; prolonged soaking swells and softens the plate, and nails are dried thoroughly before product is applied.

Massage strokes: effleurage (light gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), and vibration; massage is omitted over open lesions, bruises, or inflammation.

Polish application: thin base coat for adhesion, two thin color coats, then top coat to seal and add gloss; each coat is allowed to dry before the next.

Pedicure technique: toenails trimmed straight across with nippers, callus reduced on moistened skin with a rasp or paddle, and cutting of live tissue avoided.

Clients with diabetes, poor circulation, or reduced sensation are not given abrasive callus work, sharp implements, or long soaks without medical clearance.

Basins, footbaths, and whirlpool jets are cleaned and disinfected with a hospital-grade product between clients, including flushing the jets per the label.

Acrylic systems combine a liquid monomer (ethyl methacrylate, EMA) with a polymer powder (polymethyl methacrylate, PMMA); mixing them begins polymerization as the product cures.

MMA (methyl methacrylate) monomer is banned or restricted by many state boards because of severe allergic reactions; EMA is the permitted salon monomer.

Primer is methacrylic acid applied sparingly to the natural plate to improve adhesion; skin contact and over-application cause lifting and irritation.

A dehydrator removes surface oils and moisture before product application; residual oil or moisture is a leading cause of lifting.

Sculpted nails are built on forms placed under the free edge; tips are sized, bonded with nail glue, and blended at the stress area.

UV and LED gels contain photoinitiators that harden only with the correct wavelength and cure time; uncured gel left on skin causes allergic reaction.

Wraps use silk, fiberglass, or linen with a resin or gel overlay to add strength; fabric edges are secured and sealed.

Removal uses acetone or the manufacturer's remover; prying, biting, or forcing product off tears plate layers and causes onycholysis.

Overfiling the natural plate causes thinning, sensitivity, and separation, so a thin layer of product is left on returning clients.

Consultation covers health history, medications, allergies, prior product reactions, occupation, and the client's desired shape, length, color, and finish.

Contraindications include infection, open cuts, contagious skin conditions, severe dermatitis, recent surgery, and medications that thin skin or increase photosensitivity.

The quote - price, time, and aftercare - is confirmed before the service begins, and any change in scope is agreed before additional product is used.

A patch test applies a small amount of product to the inner forearm and observes for 24–48 hours when the client reports past sensitivity.

The client record card documents contact details, dates, products used, nail and skin observations, and consent; it is confidential and retained per rule.

Technicians describe what they observe and refer; they never diagnose a condition, prescribe treatment, or recommend medication.

Service is declined politely and documented when a condition makes the procedure unsafe, and the client is directed to a physician.

Cosmetics including nail products are regulated by the FDA; disinfectants by the EPA; worker chemical safety by OSHA.

The SDS (Safety Data Sheet) lists hazards, handling, first aid, and storage for each professional product and must be available in the salon.

The pH scale runs 0–14; skin and nail plate sit near 4.5–5.5, and strongly alkaline products can disrupt the acid mantle and cause irritation.

Nail polish contains solvents, film formers (resins), plasticizers for flexibility, and pigments; acetone is the common solvent for removal.

Acetone is volatile and flammable; it is stored in closed containers away from heat and open flame and used with adequate ventilation.

Polymerization links monomer molecules into long chains; UV/LED gels use photoinitiators activated by light rather than by evaporation.

Acrylic curing is exothermic - it releases heat - so thick applications or excess monomer can produce a burning sensation on the nail bed.

Repeated skin contact with monomers, primers, and dust can cause contact dermatitis and sensitization; gloves, ventilation, and closed containers reduce exposure.

The NC State Board of Cosmetic Art Examiners licenses cosmetologists, barbers, manicurists, estheticians, natural hair care specialists, and the shops and schools in which they practice.

A current license is displayed in the shop where the licensee works, and services may be performed only within the scope of that specific license.

Licenses must be renewed on the schedule set by the Board; practicing on an expired license is prohibited and subject to disciplinary action.

A shop license is required, and the shop must meet Board sanitation standards, contain required equipment and washing facilities, and post required notices.

Board rules require hospital-grade disinfection of implements, single-use porous items, covered waste containers, and an accessible hand-washing sink.

Board representatives may inspect a licensed shop during business hours without advance notice to verify sanitation, licensing, and compliance.

Violations may result in a reprimand, fine, suspension, or revocation of license; practicing without a license or employing an unlicensed person is a violation.

Servicing a client with an infected or contagious condition, or failing to keep required records and product information, is a rule violation.

Booth rental: the technician pays fixed rent, works as an independent contractor on a 1099, and covers their own taxes, insurance, and supplies.

Employee/commission status: the salon withholds taxes and issues a W-2, supplies the station, and sets the schedule under the shop's direction.

Business structures include sole proprietorship, partnership, LLC, and corporation; an LLC separates personal assets from business liabilities.

Professional liability (malpractice) insurance covers claims of client injury from services and is separate from property and general business insurance.

Pricing must recover product cost, service time, overhead, and profit; per-service cost is calculated from supply usage and hourly expenses.

Ethical practice means honest advertising and pricing, no diagnosing or prescribing, no disparaging of competitors, and no discussion of a client's business with others.

Client records are confidential and shared only with the client's consent or when law requires disclosure.

Retention is built on rebooking before the client leaves, written aftercare instructions, and follow-up at the next scheduled visit.