NC Natural Hair Care cheat sheet

Pathogen classes in cosmetology settings: bacteria (Staphylococcus, Streptococcus, Pseudomonas), fungi (Trichophyton causing tinea), viruses (hepatitis B/C, HIV, HPV), and parasites (lice, scabies); only bacteria and fungi are typically treatable with standard salon disinfectants.

Chain of infection has six links - pathogen, reservoir, portal of exit, mode of transmission, portal of entry, susceptible host; breaking any one link prevents transmission, and disinfection breaks the transmission link.

Cleaning removes visible soil with soap and water; disinfection kills most microorganisms on nonporous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores and is not required for routine salon tools.

An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant labeled bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal is the salon standard; tuberculocidal claim is required in some states for blood exposures, and immersion contact time must match the label (commonly 10 minutes).

Blood and body-fluid exposure: stop service, apply gloves, clean the area with soap and water, then disinfect with an EPA-registered product; a sharps injury or non-intact skin contact triggers referral to a physician for hepatitis B and HIV evaluation.

Material classification drives the control method: porous items that cannot be disinfected (cotton, gauze, wooden sticks, emery boards) are single-use and discarded; nonporous implements are cleaned then disinfected; electrical tools are wiped with an EPA-registered wipe per label.

Universal precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; required personal protective equipment includes gloves for any service involving blood or non-intact skin, and handwashing with soap and running water before and after each client.

Client protection duties include a patch test for oxidative color and relaxers at least 24-48 hours before first application, a pre-service scalp and skin assessment, and disclosure of product risks; a signed consent record documents the service.

Chemical burn versus allergic reaction: a burn is localized redness, blistering, or weeping at the application site and needs rinsing and referral; an allergic reaction is diffuse itching, hives, or swelling and requires product removal and medical referral.

North Carolina requires a wet disinfection container with an EPA-registered, hospital-grade disinfectant at each styling station or readily accessible, and the solution must be changed per manufacturer instructions or when visibly soiled.

Implements must be cleaned to remove debris, fully immersed in disinfectant for the label contact time, removed, rinsed if the label directs, and stored in a clean, covered container; used implements must never be stored loose in a drawer.

Towels and linens must be laundered after each client; soiled linens belong in a closed receptacle and clean linens in a separate closed storage area - never stored together.

Handwashing requires soap and running water for at least 20 seconds; hand sanitizer does not substitute when hands are visibly soiled or after restroom use.

Single-use items (razor blades, wooden manicure sticks, cotton, neck strips) are discarded after one client; porous items that cannot be disinfected are never reused.

A blood spill is cleaned with an absorbent, then the area is disinfected with an EPA-registered product effective against bloodborne pathogens; contaminated waste goes into a closed, labeled container.

Floors, shampoo bowls, chairs, and work surfaces are cleaned and disinfected between clients or as needed; restrooms and general shop areas require a posted cleaning schedule.

Salon inspections are conducted by the NC Board of Cosmetic Art Examiners; repeated violations can lead to reinspection fees, probation, suspension, or revocation of the shop license.

Products must be dispensed without double-dipping, kept covered and labeled, and stored away from food; expired or contaminated product is discarded, and bulk containers are not topped off.

Hair typing by curl pattern (Type 1 straight, Type 2 wavy, Type 3 curly, Type 4 coily) guides product selection but does not determine porosity; porosity (low, normal, high) governs how much moisture and protein hair retains.

Porosity test: float a clean shed strand in water - floating indicates low porosity (cuticle tight, needs heat and lightweight moisture), sinking indicates high porosity (cuticle open, needs protein and sealants).

Cleansing options: sulfate shampoos for heavy buildup, co-washing (conditioner-only) for dry or curly hair, and clay or apple cider vinegar rinses for product buildup; clarify no more than every 2-4 weeks to avoid stripping.

Moisture-protein balance: hair that snaps when wet needs protein; hair that feels stiff and straw-like after protein needs moisture; alternate protein treatments every 4-6 weeks for damaged or chemically treated hair.

Protective styles (braids, twists, cornrows, wigs, locs) reduce manipulation; tension at the hairline causes traction alopecia, so edges must not be pulled tight and styles should be removed and redone every 4-8 weeks.

Detangling rule: work from ends to roots in sections on damp, conditioner-coated hair with a wide-tooth comb or fingers; never detangle dry, brittle hair from the scalp downward.

Heat styling safety: use a heat protectant, keep flat irons at or below 350-400°F on natural hair, and avoid applying heat to wet or damp hair because trapped water boils and causes bubble hair damage.

Chemical services on natural hair - relaxers, texturizers, and color - require a strand test, scalp protection (base), and a patch test 24-48 hours before; never apply relaxer to scalp that is irritated, abraded, or has been shampooed within 48-72 hours.

Scalp conditions to recognize and refer: seborrheic dermatitis (yellow, greasy flakes), psoriasis (silvery plaques), tinea capitis (ringworm - contagious, needs medical treatment), and traction alopecia; a cosmetologist does not diagnose or treat disease.

The NC Board of Cosmetic Art Examiners licenses cosmetologists, estheticians, manicurists, natural hair care specialists, and shops; it is the sole licensing authority and enforces the Cosmetic Art Act under NC General Statutes Chapter 88B.

Natural hair care specialist scope is limited to arranging, braiding, locking, twisting, weaving, and shampooing natural hair; chemical services such as relaxers, color, and permanent waves require a cosmetologist license.

Licensure requires completion of an approved program (natural hair care typically 300 hours), passage of the written and practical examinations, and a minimum age of 16 with a high school diploma or equivalent.

A license must be displayed at the work station or shop, and a shop license must be posted in the shop; licenses are renewed annually and continuing education or renewal fees apply per Board rule.

A licensed practitioner may perform services only in a licensed shop; mobile or home services are not permitted unless the location itself holds a shop license, and booth renters still operate under the shop license.

The Board may deny, suspend, or revoke a license for unsanitary practices, practicing outside scope, fraud, or alcohol/drug impairment; disciplinary actions follow notice and a hearing under the Administrative Procedure Act.

Advertising must not be false or misleading, and licensees may not use the title 'licensed' unless currently licensed; unlicensed practice is a violation subject to civil penalties.

Client records, including service dates and product records, are maintained by the shop, and the Board may inspect a shop during business hours without advance notice.

Sanitation rules in NC require a covered waste receptacle, an EPA-registered disinfectant at each station, and compliance with 21 NCAC 14H sanitation standards; violation is grounds for disciplinary action.