ND Cosmetology key terms

A document supplied by a product manufacturer that lists a chemical's hazards, safe handling and storage instructions, first-aid measures, and required protective equipment. Salons must keep one for every professional product on hand.

The process of destroying most pathogenic organisms, but not necessarily bacterial spores, on nonporous surfaces and implements. In most states it requires an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant used according to label directions.

The complete destruction of all microbial life, including bacterial spores, usually achieved with an autoclave. It exceeds the level of kill required for routine salon implements, which normally need only cleaning and disinfection.

A device that uses pressurized steam to sterilize metal implements and porous items. Items must be cleaned and dried first, and packages need proper loading and cycle monitoring to be effective.

A number assigned by the Environmental Protection Agency confirming that a disinfectant's label claims have been reviewed. Salon disinfectants should carry this registration and be used exactly as the label specifies.

The protocol for handling bleeding during a service: stop the service, glove up, clean the wound, apply pressure, disinfect the area with an EPA-registered product, and dispose of contaminated materials in a sealed bag.

The practice of treating all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious, regardless of a client's known health status. It drives glove use, handwashing, and safe handling of sharp or soiled items.

The transfer of pathogens from one person, surface, or implement to another, often through shared tools, towels, or unwashed hands. Preventing it is the central goal of salon sanitation routines.

Porous items, such as wooden files, foam buffers, and natural-bristle brushes, absorb liquids and cannot be reliably disinfected, so they are usually discarded after one client. Nonporous items, such as metal and glass, can be cleaned and disinfected for reuse.

A product or implement designed to be used on one client only and then discarded, such as a disposable razor, wooden pusher, or nail file. Reusing it risks cross-contamination and may violate state rules.

A 0-to-14 scale measuring how acidic or alkaline a water-based solution is, with 7 neutral. Hair and skin are mildly acidic, and product pH strongly affects cuticle swelling, color development, and chemical texture results.

A product formulated near the natural pH of hair and skin, roughly 4.5 to 5.5. Such products minimize cuticle swelling and are commonly used in shampoos, conditioners, and post-service normalizing steps.

A solution with a pH above 7 that swells the hair cuticle and softens it, allowing chemicals to penetrate. Permanent waves, relaxers, and many color products depend on this swelling action.

The middle and thickest layer of the hair shaft, made of elongated keratinized cells. It holds the hair's strength, elasticity, natural pigment, and the chemical changes produced by coloring and texturing services.

The tough outer layer of overlapping scales that protects the hair shaft and controls what enters or leaves the cortex. Chemical services must lift or open it, and damage here causes frizz, dullness, and breakage.

The innermost core of the hair shaft, made of loosely packed cells and often absent in fine or light-colored hair. It plays little role in chemical services or styling results.

The hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture, determined largely by cuticle condition. High porosity takes color fast but fades quickly; low porosity resists penetration and may need longer processing or pre-softening.

The hair's ability to stretch and return to its original length without breaking, an indicator of internal strength. Wet hair that stretches well past half its length and does not recoil is likely too damaged for chemical services.

The natural direction in which hair grows from the scalp. Streams flow in one direction, whorls form a circular pattern, and cowlicks stand up or switch direction, all of which affect parting, cutting, and styling decisions.

The angle at which hair is held away from the head while cutting, measured from the scalp. Low elevation builds weight and length; high elevation removes weight and creates layers and graduation.

The first section of hair cut to a chosen length that all following sections are matched to. A stationary guide stays fixed for a consistent line; a traveling guide moves with each section to build graduation or layers.

Dividing the hair into clean, controlled subsections with clips or partings before cutting, coloring, or styling. Consistent sectioning keeps tension even and makes results predictable and repeatable.

An oxidizing agent mixed with permanent color or lightener to develop color and lift natural pigment. Its strength, expressed in volume, controls how much lift occurs and how much color is deposited.

An alkaline ingredient in many permanent colors and lighteners that swells the cuticle and raises pH so dye and peroxide can penetrate. It also produces the characteristic odor and can irritate skin and lungs.

A small amount of color product applied to skin, usually behind the ear or in the elbow crease, 24 to 48 hours before a color service to check for an allergic reaction. Results must be read before proceeding.

A test on a small cutting of the client's hair, using the actual formula, to predict timing, color result, and condition before the full service. It is essential when the hair's history or previous chemicals are uncertain.

A mildly acidic product applied after a relaxer or permanent wave to restore the hair's natural pH, close the cuticle, and stop chemical action. It is followed by rinsing and conditioning.

A highly alkaline product, usually sodium hydroxide or a no-lye alternative, that breaks disulfide bonds to straighten curly or coily hair. It requires careful scalp protection, timing, and thorough rinsing.

A six-type classification of skin based on how it responds to ultraviolet light, from always burning to rarely burning. It guides sun-protection advice and cautions for clients receiving exfoliation or waxing.

A condition that makes a service unsafe or inadvisable, such as inflamed skin, an active infection, or a recent cosmetic procedure. Recognizing one means declining or postponing the service and referring the client out.

Any visible change in skin tissue, such as a sore, cyst, mole, or discoloration. Cosmetologists may serve over intact, noninfected skin but must not diagnose or treat lesions and should refer suspicious ones.

The services and tasks a licensee is legally permitted to perform under state law. Working outside it, such as diagnosing skin disease or performing medical procedures, can bring fines, license loss, or liability.

The visible, hardened keratin structure covering the nail bed, protecting the sensitive tissue beneath. Its condition, thickness, and surface guide filing, product adhesion, and service decisions.

The skin layer directly beneath the nail plate, rich in blood vessels and nerves. Injury or separation here is painful, and any sign of infection or detachment means the service should stop.

The thin layer of dead tissue at the base of the nail plate that seals the area between nail and skin. It should be gently pushed back, never cut, because cutting can open a path for infection.

Maintaining logs of disinfection procedures, implement cleaning, and client records as required by state rules and good practice. Good records demonstrate compliance and help resolve disputes or inspections.

Explaining a service's procedure, risks, and expected results so the client can agree knowingly before work begins. It is documented in the client record and is especially important for chemical and skin services.